thewaiverproject

i actually plugged up the leak, but now i noticed my car shakes now when it's started, and is really bogged down no power. So I checked the sparks, and it turns out that cylinders 2-6 are getting no fuel. only cylinder 1 is getting some, + all are a bit oil fouled, because i had to drive on it in this condition for a few miles... The Fuel pressure gauge shows normal, shoots between 20-30 and back, its always been like that. But maybe it still has something to do with the fuel pump/ filters ( i have 2) or is it electric??? since there seems to be some fuel in cylinder 1, but none in 2-6. I'll do a compression test and a multimeter test on the injectors this week.

So i have a 240z with a l28et i can drive it fine for about 10-15 minutes before it dies. I then have to open up the oil cap - where alot of smoke will comeout ( but its not heavy white smoke, its just thin white smoke) looks like exhaust smoke? after sometime, when the smoke is cleared out, the car will restart again. also theres a little bit of smoke coming from between the turbo and the exhaust pipe ( i need to fix that small leak theres a clamp there, but could it cause this?) So it's being choked i think, but why? I increased fuel values but its still the same.. the spark plug top tip is white, but everything around it is black with fuel, u can smell it too. I have a small k&n filter on the cover valve, instead of the tubing that runs from the manifold. so is exhaust getting stuck in the engine maybe? I know i get a lot of blow by, and that tube goes back into the mani. i use to have a oil catcher inbetween but it didnt solve the problem, but caught alot of gunk and well as perspiration. I definitely think it's exhaust smoke coming out of the oil cap, but i could be wrong, any ideas? perhaps i just have to up the gas values even more? if it really is a lean problem?

Thanks guys, I'll probably do the hairdryer through the duct. I have a independent line from the battery to a relay already that I use for an extra fan, so I'll run one from there to the hairdryer. In the meantime I'll do the temp. methods of the sprays and soap. I got the car with no ac and no heater core. half the ducts are not there and also the water line for the vent system is gone or most of it is cut off. I guess I should fix that when I have time, but the hairdryer thing seems quick enough to do and it will get me through this semester

Hi, So my semester started and now I have to wake up at 6 am to drive to school, and on some days I get off at 9pm. It's winter in S.F. and on most nights/ early mornings my 240z windows will become fogged. I have no a/c and engine vent heat doesn't come into the car. So I'm pretty much at a loss unless I leave windows open- which is something that I can't do in the places I park. and when I roll down the window to = temp after I get back to the car, it takes like 30 mins.... I plan to run a 12 volt line from the battery to the interior for a portable defogger/defroster. But in the meantime, can I just open a can of gel fuel and light it, and put in in the car/ near the windshield until it defogs? Or just keep a lighter on near the windshield lol. It's a little dangerous I know, but if it's a small flame, it should be fine? it would dry the air inside right?

So every time I turn on my headlights, or even side skirt lights, the turn signals light up and stay lit. Also the turn signal function it self, doesn't work with the lights turned on or off. I don't hear the turn click from the relay or anything either. I looked at the wiring diagram, and it might be that, since the side skirts share a line with the turn signals- they go to the emergency flasher, that somehow it's tripping the turnsignals on. Especially since the emergency flasher doesn't work. perhaps it's a crossed wire, or something wrong within the flasher that makes this happen? Also my night light that suppose to light up the instruments do not work as well, and I know it's not the fuse. Would a bad ground cause the turnsignal problem? I'm trying to make sense of this before i mess with the flasher, since it seems like I can't get to the flasher combo or the turnsignal relays without taking off the dashboard...right? or is there a easier way to reach them? If anyone has any ideas or have been in this situation, let me know

So I've noticed that one main reason for my car crabbing to the passenger side, is because of the rear wheels. First of all, the driver side rear is too toed in, but that could be fixed with adjustable suspension. However, the wheels in the back seem to be off axis to the fronts, as in the driver side rear wheel is closer to center (width). while the passenger side rear is further away from center (width). As if everything shifted half an inch to an inch to the right. So when you look at the rear wheels from behind the car, you can see the passenger side sticking out of the rear flares, while the driver side is sunken in to the flares.... What would cause this???? I did jump a curb awhile back, but i dont know how it would knock things to the right since they both are connected to the diff. unless I messed up the subframe? anyone have any ideas, before i pay for a suspension specialist to look at it. ( cant seem to find anyone that's willing to give a free examination...)

Hi, I'm looking for the passenger side headlight cover for a 240z, I have all the hardware and stripping, so I'm just really looking for a cheap cover that maybe is an odd one out for someone. Though if you have a good deal for a set, I'm still interested. Also I'm looking for black or fake chrome fend mirrors, the cheap ones, if anyone has some lying around. Let me know! and also how much you'd send them this way for. Thanks.

1971 240z Hi i have a big rear toe in problem on my driver side. I've read some threads about shimming to fix the problem, but I still don't get exactly where do i shim. On the stock rear control arms, all the bushings run parallel to the wheel, so i don't logically understand how shimming them will adjust toe. So could someone tell me exactly which bushing area to put spacers? I'm just not getting it. Also, will shimming the strut/camber plate via the inside trunk area affect toe as well? Here is old alignment numbers: but i didn't drive it much after. Front Left Front Right -0.2degrees Camber 0.5degrees 3.8 degrees Caster 1.7degrees 2.2mm Toe 0.2mm Rear Left Rear Right -1.8degrees Camber -3.4degrees 6.5mm Toe -3.1mm Car pulls to the right. thrust angle is pointed that way from the numbers. I dont think it's a subframe problem, so I'm seeing if i can straighten the back 1st before i try the front.

You should check the fuel pressure as it struggles and dies. Also check the vacuum reading as well. You'll find a clue within one of those readings. A vacuum gauge is very helpful. Also, you said it finally worked after you switched the maf. It reminded me of a situation where my car wouldn't start, or it would start and die fast, or it would drive for 15 minutes and die suddenly. I kept trying to restart but it kept flooding. thought it was alot of things alternator/ starter/ ign/ fuel. But i had spark/fuel/air. switched alot of things... Ended up being a loose maf vacuum. when it was close to the vacuum line, it worked, but when a bump or overtime/vibrations, it moved apart and the engine died. Check all your vacuum lines if you haven't. make sure theres no leak or anything easy. They have a spray you can use as well. Or do a smoke test where you blow smoke into a line when the car is on and see if it pops out anywhere.

So if the battery connection and combo switch are tested well/welded( and also plugged into the right plugs.) It always isn't a bad idea to replace the fuses since they are cheap, and check that they are the right amps. If you're stepping on the breaks and the turn switch came on then the wiring plugs could be messed up. check the taillight cluster. as well as the plugs in the fender area that deal with headlights/markers. front and back markers can also be bad grounds that take out the head and tail lights respectively. Make sure you ground them ( thats what happened to me once) If you cant tell, use your fsm, and flip to the circuit diagram, pick a problem light, and trace it on the diagram, see where else it connects/joins up until it hits the fuse/combo. Start tracing I prefer to start at the light. Check from there that the connections are good and right, and follow it to the fuse. you don't need to keep pulling up upholstery or anything since i really doubt there'd be a problem in the middle of the line unless something bad has happened in the interior or something sharp/heavy cut into the upholstery. If a wire is bad, most of the time it's at the ends/ connections. Check the fsm and everytime the wire joins up with another part of the circuit, check that connection, and see if the relay/wire it joins up with doesn't lead to a bad ground or anything.

yea I have a hall sensor mount on the front engine to pick up timing/revolutions. it runs on a sds system. I'm trying to figure out how strong this coil pack/ volts will be. but i dont know where it's from. Just hoping to get an idea for the spark plug gapping, but i guess i'll just test it out and see. I was wondering if i should stay within factory specs of the gap, or if this coil pack was similar to one of those MSD, where you can gap it to .45 or even .50 oh yea sorry, my phone camera takes huge pic files. i need to adjust that.

nothing is on the surface, no numbers or wording that can help me id this. All there is is the giant a.b.c. parts of the ign/dis. does anyone know? it pretty much hooks straight up from wiring/ battery, and to the spark plug cords.

Ok, my l28et 240z smokes when accelerating, especially in 1st and 2nd gear, at worst at low rpms. White Smoke. I did a compression test and got about 90 on cylinder 5. everything else was around 138. then a month later another test showed everything at 120, and cylinder 5 still 90. I thought the lost in compression might just be bc its a different day doing it, didn't matter too much since they were all close. Anyways, i figured it was a headgasket problem, especially since there was oil in the radiator. However when I took off the head, there were no signs of a broken headgasket. It looked fine, no cracks or breaks between holes. I already ordered a OEM headgasket from nissan, but the headgasket on the car seems like a custom one, that's better fitted and has more length on the edges. should i replace it anyways? or just return the part or sell it. What can be the problem now? piston rings? but that seems weird that 1 ring will be soo off, i thought they wear out pretty similarly. I am about the check the valve guides, but i thought they are damaged only when theres blue smoke. I'm not sure how to tell if the piston/rings/cylinder is bad. Since the block is still in the car, do i have to get the pistons out ( via taking off the oil pan and using a hammer to push the pistons up) to really get a good idea? thanks

thanks guys, i got everything dismantled down to the block. I just didn't want to force it when the fsm said to lock the cams which i didn't know how to do. Heard it might damage the valve seals from someone if i just forced it. all good now. btw its not always the same threading haha the guys that did my alignment didn't know that one side was opposite threading....

Hi, i searched the forums, and I dont think anyone asked this newbie question haha. I have the 280zx fsm, but all it says is to remove the bolt by locking the camshaft. This is a 1982 L28et I have the thing at TDC and a wedge (drum sticks) into the timing chain. So all i have to do now is remove the camshaft bolt. I've been assuming that its the same bolt that I have been turning to get the engine to TDC Do I just turn it counterclockwise? like a normal loosen? I ask this question because I tried doing that with some force, but it's not budging, so I don't want to apply more unless I'm sure that is what I'm supposed to be doing. Or do i turn it clockwise while preventing the camshaft from moving? thanks