Ducer

Hi Everyone, Im looking for some used lowering springs for my 1973 240z. If you have some Eibach or Tokico or some JDM quality lowering springs please let me know. Thank you.

HEY yall, Im looking to buy a set of used coilovers for my earl 1974 260z. Please let me know what you have and how much? Thank you!

Additional zx dizzy modificatio. Retarding the vacuum adcance. So after experiencing the massive zx vacuum advance and curve i pondered about a solution and i got one. As an aquarium hobbiest i found that using an adjustable air valve is a simple way to reduce the suction and thus limiting the zx dizzy's diaphram operation. So i went on ebay and purchased a nice chrome $3 dollar air valve. After setting the base timing at 7 degrees and playing with the air valve ive managed to get the advance to be at 20-25 degrees at full load. Without this limitation it would be over 30 degrees at full load. With this simple valve you can set your base timing higher to 10-15 degrees and you can lower the advance under load. In addition you can diable or enable the vacuum advance with a turn of the knob. I highly recommend doing this instead of plugging off the vac advance. Its like a simple manual vacuum contol. And it works awesome and looks cool. NO need to fiddle with the distributor plates and complicated process to reduce the vacucum advance. Enjoy

Looking for a set of Swastika 280zx Turbo wheels. I am in Los Angeles,CA. If you have a set please let me know, pick up preferred but okay with shipping if price is right. Also if you have XXR or any aftermarket wheels with 0 offset that would suffice. Please PM me or Email: UsdmGarage@yahoo.com Thank you, Ducer.

Your stock s booster is not Powerful enough to handle the Master and calipers. In addition it may be old and siezed up. You should test it out buy pumping the brake pedals a few times then start the car. With the car on the brake pedal should depress as the vacuum assist would kick in. Further more i purchased a new remans booster and it was still horrible ao i opted to upgrade to a z32 sual diaphram abs booster with a z32 bm57 17/16 master brake cylinder which can take even mighty thora hammer strikes. Most likely the s30 booster isnt sufficient so youd have to upgrade to a modern booster.

WOW, this is sexy, kinda like Soga's new Simpson shoes. Wow, RB awsomo power.

Please read the Original Write up again, I've answered all the questions in it, I made it more clear. Thanks

WOW, talk about O.C.D! This isn't a datsun anymore, it's a one off. Tubings look SEX~!

Okay here is the definitive 260z with 280zx Distributor swap and tachometer hook up. Most FSM and other people don't have a specific write up for the 260z, so after months of trial and tribulations, I made this and it's surely the best, it's idiot proof: Materials need: 1) 1979-1981 280zx Distributor, 280zx The distributor base, cap and rotor. 1A) 1979-1981 E12-80 Igniter aka (Ignition Control Unit ICU) which is screwed on the side of the distributor. You can use the 82-83 Distributor but you should use the E12-80 Igniter, as the 82-83 Igniter has a few more terminals and a little more complicated. 2) 14-16 gauge wires, spade connectors, or you can go to the junk yard and cut the original connector pigtail that plugs into the E12-80 igniter, but female spade connectors will work as well. 3) Use your stock Cylindrical type coil, you can upgrade to MSD coil or Flamethrower ****NOTE***I've tried using a more modern coil such as an RX7, 240sx coil, but I believe the resistance in the coil is different and therefore the Tach didn't function correctly as the appropriate voltage was not sent to the tach. The voltage was drawn away by the newer/modern type coil and thus insufficient voltage was sent to the tach making it sporadic. 4) Use OEM 260z,280z,280zx grey resistor with 3 red lines and one amber, came stock with 260z, 280z, and even the 280zx. If you can't find one at the junk yard, you simply go on ebay or radioshack and get a 2.2K OHM / 1 Watt Resistor 12v or 120V max. (which is the same specs as the factory one). You will need this resistor as it lowers the voltage so that the tach will work. Without out this resistor the tach will not work. The 260z and 280z tach works on Voltage and Negative Triggered. Resistor Location: In the main harness coming from outside to inside where just above the Passenger's right feet would be, encased in a white plastic cocoon, resistor is inside that. 5) **Delete the ballast resistor unit as you will not need this anymore. 6) **Delete the Transistor (Ignition IGN)unit as you will not need this with the ZX electronic distributor swap.

Hey guys. Id like to buy a 280z hood with the two vents. $100-200. Los Angeles area or SoCal. Please let me know. Thank you

I have a brand new Arizona Zcar intake manifold I can sell to you at a great deal!! Let me know, I have this set up on my Z, but with a clifford manifold, holley carbs are the best way to go as price means. Tripples are the bomb, but very expensive and a biatch to tune. Holleys are so easy and parts are readily available at any parts store, simple simple, cheap, works great.

With regards to injector plug clean up, on my 240sx, i extended the injector plugs and ran the harness underneath the intake manifold, not sure you can do it with L28, but it's an ideal.

I did a complete wire tuck on my 260z a month or two back. It's very clean. What I did was run the entire main harness through the hallow fender frame channel(fresh Air passage). And moved all the fuses, and other units inside the car in the passenger side under the dash. The channel is the perfect size. You'll run the entire harness back into the car through the firewall hole, then use a long piece of coat hanger or I used a thick tubing, or cable, pushed it from the front through and taped the tip of the harnesses and pulled it through. You'll need to zip tie or temporarily tape up the main harness so it's as skinny as possible. Then run alternator, starter extensions. I still have the battery in the front, just didn't want to do the battery relocation yet. overally no wires showing, and it runs just the way it sits in this picture. I also deleted a lot of wires I dont' need anymore, like A/C and EGR, ignition coil is moved to the front of the car, so nothing is in the engine bay. I also cleaned up the fuel rail lines, as I made/bent my own out of some left over 240sx fuel lines I had laying around. Bunch of other little details and it makes the engine bay really clean. Keep it clean, SOLDER, heat shrink wrap everything, and use shielded spade connectors. The spark plug wires are autozone duralast cheapo's eventually I'll make custom ones and route the plug wires along the front side of the engine making it a lot cleaner, but as of right now, it's damn clean and it will do. I will also make a fuse/relay holding board for all the units that I moved inside the car, so much to do, so little time and $$$$. To save money I had to be innovative. I used left over 240sx parts, 300zx parts, and zip ties, and brackets from 240sx. The spark plug wire seperators are just white zip ties zipped together. Instead of using rubber hoses, I had left over hardlines, bought a tubing bender for a few bunks and measured and bent simple 90* degree bends and gives it a much cleaner look. I did tubing for the fuel, booster vacuum, and vacuum advance on the dizzy. It gives it a nice shape and no sagging rubber hoses everywhere.. I bought a hot rod vertical overflow tank which figs perfectly with the tabs on the aluminum and stock radiator, I shimmed the overflow tank with 2 "Stanley" sockes, you can use cheapo harborfreight as spacers. I believe 2 new 12mm chrome deep sockets, and bought two long M6x1.25 bolts and that was that. So cheap little mods that look good and you don't need too much money