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  1. As far as intended use I would like to autocross, drive the car on road courses, and drive around town occasionally. My closes course is Utah Motorsports campus and I try to do events 1x per month. I haven't decided how much I can spend on wheels/tires yet and am just starting to look so I can set a realistic budget. For the wheel setup pic there is a pic in this thread a few posts ago that has a side shot where you can see the wheels.
  2. Well, it looks like there is a bad bearing or 2. The oil looked clean from the pan, but this is what came from the filter so I will be pulling the engine to investigate and fix the problem. I will also be adding an oil scraper, an oil cooler (this will be cheap insurance to prevent this in the future) and looking to see if I can retard timing and keep performance to possibly have it run a little cooler in the future. I tried to get a scraper from Ishihara-Johnson scrapers to no avail (I talked to Kevin a few months ago to place the order and it still hasn't shipped) so I will measure it all an
  3. Thanks for the response, I am out of town, but will check more thoroughly for exhaust leaks when I get back and digging around more with a stethoscope. The noise is certainly not normal, my daughter who was in the car with me was like "whoa what is that sound" about 15 seconds after I noticed it. Although I don't like the higher temps, they certainly seem reasonable and under any normal driving the temp stays around the middle of the gauge, when driving with sustained higher rpms in 90-100 degree temps it does get up to 3/4 but drops back down quickly if I shift to drop the rpm range. I am not
  4. Okay, I have searched and tested and am not quite sure what is going on. The engine has a few thousand miles on it and has been running great. I was testing AFRs in it at different constant RPMs in 2nd gear and noticed that the temp started rising (3/4) and the oil pressure was pretty low (less than1/4) so I drove faster at a lower rpm to get the temps down. As the temp normalized and oil pressure started rising a clicking sound started. I was a couple of miles from home so drove back home to do a little diagnosis. When I got back let it run with the hood open to see if I could fi
  5. Questions: - Camber vs Caster - How do you know whether you need more caster or camber in the front. I will start with the recommended settings that are found elsewhere in the forum, but anywhere I have searched all I can find is the info on how to use tire temps to adjust camber. The two are related, so any thoughts on how to know when to adjust which? - Tire size - I would like to get wider tires when these ones wear out and to do that while keeping sticky non-slick tires I will need bigger rims. Everywhere I look it says that bigger rims will slow acceleration and re
  6. The tires are wearing on the outside edges more than in the middle, and the car doesn't grip around the corners as well as I would like so the car clearly needs more camber and likely caster. I did slot the shock towers but that only gave me maybe 1/2 degree of adjustment before the spring isolator hits the towers. The plan: - Get adjustable lower control arms front and rear. I thought about building these, but when I add up the part cost, the time, and the risk it just seemed like a better idea to buy the arms. I ordered them from Apex engineered and they should be here next
  7. With the "new" engine in place and running there have been a few other issues that needed sorting out. On my first track day the fuel started boiling in the float bowls while running so it was time for a better heat shield between the headers and the carbs - yes these are ceramic coated headers and a better heat shield is still needed(not just a nice to have especially for track days). I built a new heat shield from scratch, it is hard to see in the pic but basically it looks like a park bench from the side without legs and covers the whole length but largely follows the style of the original
  8. pic of the car After reading some aero stuff I covered some of the radiator opening with cardboard and made a plexiglass rear spoiler. This stuff actually helped hold me down on the track a little better with the side benefit of less exhaust smell. Since the cardboard worked it has since been replaced by a plastic piece that does the same thing but adds some stiffness to the air dam and doesn't look like a piece of cardboard. With the new suspension the car felt much closer to what I was looking for, but the engine wasn't quite up to par so I to
  9. Alright, first a bit of introduction. I bought my z around 4 years ago, it was in okay shape but hadn't been run for 16 years. It is the late 72 model, so some of it is early 240z and some is starting to get to 260z stuff depending on the part. When I got the car it had a "rebuilt" engine with a 280z (n42 block) and an E88 head. Not a great combo in their stock forms - anything above like 5000 RPM just didn't happen. The floors were rusted out along with some other random parts of the car. I replaced the floor pans, cleaned up the dirt, mouse poop, etc. I replaced the rubber brake
  10. I am not 100% sure what the power band is for the cam, but I have more power now than I did before anywhere along the entire rpm range. It is hard to say since so many things were done at the same time, the e88 head with stock valves and stock cam limited power above like 5500 rpm. I can easily rev to 7000 now and, I never had to watch my revs before but now I really do when accelerating so I don't over rev it. it is still a timing gear run distributor and cast pistons so I don't want to take it over 7000. I think with compression around 10:1 this is great cam. Even at 2000 rpm it has great to
  11. cam specs http://iskycams.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12_14&products_id=960 thanks for the oil starvation link, I will go read that now.
  12. Yeah, I watched that same engine masters episode. My concern would be that in the corners there would be no oil left. Has anybody played with oil levels on the track to see what the impact is on oil pressure?
  13. I just got ITM valves with bronze guides, so far so good. I have autocrossed them and tracked them and have like 500 street miles on them.
  14. 1. Currently vacuum advance is disconnected. Yes 35 + 15 seems like a lot but that is what was done on stock, so that is what I used as a baseline and bumped max vac advance down to 10 and it is too much so I disconnected. Not sure if it is worth fiddling with for a little MPG when I drive it on the street, but if someone has it working with a similar setup I would like to know how. 2. Isky stage 3. No piston to valve issues, I don't remember the clay measurements exactly, but it seems like it was in the .200 range. For valves I got SI stainless valves, springs are Schnieder cams s
  15. Well, I ended up building this motor, the cost was closer to $3500 than $2000 , but I ended up putting in ARP head and rod bolts and getting an aluminum cam oiler... I learned a ton through the process of building the engine and did all the little stuff like grinding the castings smoother and balancing the rods, and am pretty satisfied with the results. I ended up going with and Isky stage 3 and I don't know why you wouldn't go with a cam that big, no idle problems, works great with SU's etc. I sent mine in for a regrind - a great deal and got an aluminum billet oiling bar to keep
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