Viva Datsun

Alright I've got my carbs almost all together now. Sealed throttle shaft bearings feel great and the ebay guy put together a kit of six for those of us running triples. Found some banjo barb fittings from a diesel parts place on ebay too. Way cheaper than the redline fuel fittings. Now I'm still missing a few key pieces before I can really call these things rebuilt. The accelerator pump springs were totally shot when I pulled them apart, so that's a must, three of the big flat washers on the ends of the throttle shafts, one of the roll pins to secure the accel pump cam to the throttle shaft and four of the little balls that go under the brass weights. I think those are part of the pump circuit, not the starter circuit, right? If anyone can help me piece together these stupid little parts that would be awesome. I know I can get them from someone like Pierce Manifolds, but I'm trying to do this on the budget of a carpenter paying his way through school, so any help would be much appreciated as I'd love to have these done by the time I can drop in my new L28!

You would probably be correct. I just got them back from being ultrasonic cleaned and blasted. everything looks a lot better now but of course I'm not free.

What about the throttle shaft bearings? My seals were shot and I'm seeing some kits on Ebay with sealed bearings that ship free from Europe. Has anybody tried these bearings or dealt with these Ebay buys?

I'm now working on rebuilding a set of DCOE 40s I bought off a member on here. They were pretty nasty inside and the shop I dropped them off at for cleaning couldn't get the choke/starter circuit/enrichment cam brass tubes out in one piece. They're the little tubes that have a skinny portion in the middle. They don't do anything but activate the starter circuit as far as I can tell. Has anybody simply plugged these? Or maybe someone has a stash of the less common parts laying around they could sell? Any help rebuilding a set of DCOE 18s that were pretty far gone would be helpfull. Most of the info I've found on webers has been related to just tuning, not so much rebuilding.

That's pretty much why I started this thread. To help me keep track of everything I'm thinking about on my first day since the new year. And i cant find a pencil to write with

Also one of my coworkers knocked my #4 piston off of the table and put a small dent on top. Is this gonna be a problem?

Alright, let me start off by apologizing, because I know for a fact this has been covered a million times before. But I've been really sick the last couple days and I'm not perfectly lucid right now. Anyways, I just wanted somewhere to keep track of everything that actually relates to my project specifically. So, I've got an F54 block and either a P79 or an N47 (I know, I know...). I've been doing a lot of barely sober research today because I actually have time off from work and I've been getting a lot of mixed answers about the efficiency of the N47/ flat top piston combo. I know according to the L Engine calcualtor that it'll put me at 10.08:1ish and that with a stock cam you run into detonation issues. I've also read that a bigger cam will lower the dynamic compression enough to get by on premium pump gas. Now I just need someone to validate my idea here. F54 w/ flat tops, N47 head with mild port work, triple Weber 40's, MSA 3-2 header, and Web Cams 155a http://webcamshafts.com/index_blank.html?pages/vehicle_search.html Is this enough cam to keep me from pinging with the N47, and is this cam appropriate for the rest of the motor? If it helps I'm running a 83 five speed and a 4.38 diff. Also I'm in Utah at about 5000 feet if that helps. Keep in mind this is a weekend car at best. Thanks for putting up with my medicated ramblings. Hopefully this was't too unnecessary

The 720 diff I got was just a little newer than I thought. Just to be clear, we're talking about the diff from a 90s Impreza or forester, not the rare mid 80s one from an xt or brat

So some of you may have read my thread about the R180 from a 720 truck I was trying to make work in my 240z. Turns out I'd need a set of $500 side stubs to get the 27 spline diff to play with the stock axles. Since I'm trying to build this car on the budget of an underpaid carpenter I need a different solution. I've seen a bunch of R160 diffs on eBay for pretty cheap from mid 90s subarus. They have a 4.44 ratio and a viscous LSD. I know that they're tiny little things, but I've heard of them taking some pretty good power in 510s. I'm pretty much stock in the power department, so I think ill be fine for now. Before I buy anything though, I want to be certain it'll work. Has anyone here seen this diff that can tell me ill be able to bolt on my stock half shafts? I've tried searching but all I can find is stuff to do with the STi R180.

So maybe I have an r160 for some reason? Here's a picture of the ring hear that was in the Z when I got it. I'll be going to the junkyard later to pick up some 240 axles to see if those work

I'm talking about swapping the spider gears that the output flanges spline into if that makes sense. I guess I've been referring to the output flanges on the diff as Stub axles

The H190 they were referring to was the live rear axle in the trucks. I definitely have an R180 "K" model. Everything I read about these diffs said you just have to swap the snap retainer to the bolt in button retainer. The diff I bought already had bolt in stub axles but they were 27 spline ones. I'm thinking I'm gonna have to swap the side gears from my 3.36 r180 into the new k diff. They should be the same size gears right?

So the 240 stubs worked in your R180? Mine are a little too small and are 25 spline instead of 27 like the stubs that were in there.

Okay, I must have mixed up my info along the way. I'm still lost on the K R180 though

And yeah that's my rear hatch, any tips for mass bondo removal would be much appreciated...

Alright, so I bought an R180 diff out of a 720 4x4 pickup truck that had bolt in stub axles. I originally thought that my 240z stubs would bolt in place of them and all would be well. Well, no, they don't. The new diff has 27 spline stubs that are just a touch bigger diameter but with the big CV shaft flange or something. Okay, so that sounds like standard 280z stubs, right? 27 splines and .080" bigger than the 240 and still a bolt in? So I went to the junkyard today to pull them off the 280z there. Hmm, there's no bolt holding them in... Get em back to the shop and turns out they're 29 spline stubs that use a circlip deal... SO; 1)Could I use the buttons from my 240z R180 in the 720 R180? Or do they not work that way? The 720 diff (the K diff btw) used bigger stubs so I dunno. 2) What the hell is in the 280z at the junkyard? The car seems in no way racy so I cant imagine that actually being an R230 or something. I'm just stupid confused by that. Here's some pictures to explain, 240z R180, 720 K R180 then I don't even know what they are... left to right Last one's of the 240z and "280z" next to each other Thank you in advance for any help on this. I've done a good amount of research on this but I have no idea what just happened to me...

Looking for a full set of good working Tokico Illuminas for a 240z. BZ3015 and BZ3016 part numbers.

If I end up getting this set of triple Webers, then I'll have my SUs for ya. Gonna be a couple weeks, but they're complete and run great.

Title says it all, I'm looking for a booster that'll fit my 73. Im in Northern Utah

So I picked up a '79 distributor from the junkyard a while back, and the vac advance was broken like usual. I've read plenty of pages on disabling the vac advance, but found a one short thread on here where someone mentioned making a new bearing cage out of plexiglass. The thread was really short and nobody mentioned it after that, apart from just talk about tracing it onto some plasic. Has anyone else done this with any long term success? I know I can get away with just running mechanical advance, but for whatever reason I'd like to at least see if I can't get the vac advance to work. Also, do any of the parts from a 280Z dizzy exchange? I know it's a different style ignition, but anythings possible, right?

I understand the flywheel and flex plate difference, there's a plate that goes between the engine and trans that covers the bellhousing. That's the part Im asking about.

I've been gearing up to swap my 5 speed in since I got my 240Z to Utah and I've got a couple of questions I can't seem to find definitive answers to. So, the backing plate between the engine and flywheel/trans, it IS different between the manual and auto right? I found one for a manual in a junkyard, and was working on getting it out but a friend of mine told me they were the same, but the internet says to swap them out... Second is the starter, the internet says they are both different and the same... I see different part numbers on Rockauto but how different are they? Will they work interchangeably? Thanks for any help I can get.

Pics!!! The wheels look really clean on the outside, but there's some small rusty spots on the chrome. Might come off with a wire wheels or something, I'll see if I can clean em up a little. Mostly looking to trade for wheels or maybe some other parts.

The wheels? The chrome is pretty rusty. But you could always strip the chrome off and repaint them. The seat covers were in the box when I got them and appear to be brand new. Dash cap is a little dusty but otherwise would clean up good. I'll try and get some pics up soon, but I don't have a camera, so they're probably gonna be a little crappy.

I have a set of slightly rusty American Racing Outlaw wheels 14x7 and a clean seat upholstery kit for a 280z in black. I'm looking to trade for some nice 15s or 16s or maybe some other parts. Show me what you've got and we can work out a deal. I'd prefer local pickup for the wheels, but I can ship if it's necessary. I'm in Northern Utah. Will update with some pictures when I get a chance.