BLKMGK

Thanks Craig - I appreciate any info you can provide. I looked at their WEB site and while they mention GM part numbers for "clamshell" types I don't see replacement numbers for the type we're interested in. Having not yet purchased the GM part I'm not sure which of the other types would work. If someone can match them up for us I'll be ordering a set http://www.energysuspension.com/prod1.html

Heh, here it is in easy to understand English Under manifold vacuum the engine will actually try to SUCK fuel from th erail as the injector fires, thus you'd liek lower pressure in proportion to the vacuum. Under boost you want fuel pressure to go up 1PSI for each lb of boost due to the fact that the engine will be trying to BLOW fuel backwards up the fuel line to the tank. Carbs running under pressure have real problems with this to include collapsing floats bu tI digress... The SX regulator is not "rising rate". Rising rate generally means that for each PSI in the manifold you'll see MORE pressure - say 1lb boost 2PSI pressure. Rising rate isn't waht we're talking about needing here and IMO is a crutch anyway ala Vortech's crappy FMU's (and Paxton and and...) The SX WILL allow th epressure at idle to be reduced as you want, it will also raise pressure under boost correctly. That is if you hookup the vacuum hose to it's barbed fitting someplace after the throttlebody - I've got one on my Mustang. Note that the allen adjustment bolt on these things isn't stainless and will oten rust (ahem). Does that help?

Heh, I ran -10 on the Mustang Braided from the pump to the fuel rail and regulator, -8 to the back for a return I believe. Corky's idea sounded as if it would work but yours sounds better - you might even want to let him know so he can tell others. Better than drilling out the pump housing I suppose

Mike, this is the bracket needed for the SX brakes - no welding? Oh man, I want one! Does it look difficult to fab? Have you test fit it? I'm not sure how high I'd go to buy a fabbed one but do please let me know when you get an estimate. I hope to finally get to the powdercoating shop on Tuesday and do a little work tomorrow finally too.

Guys - another possible source. Try to find a copy of "Home Power" magazine. This is a really cool magazine for folks who produce their own electricity through hydro, solar, and wind power sources. Anyway, these guys use DC power in many instances and often replace their light bulbs and such with LED arrays. They use TONS of white bulbs and whatnot. Their advertisers would have sources for the LEDs that we're after. That mag has a WEB site somewhere but I've not been there in awhile and am too lazy to look it up right now Just thought I'd offer a possible lead!

Guys, those motor mounts don't appear to translate over into the mount that JTR reccomends. Has anyone actually used them? If so, which ones? JTR lists GM mount # 3990332 for use with their set back plate and spacers...

I'm running a fuel cell too. Plenty of room if you center it. You can also beat on the stock spare tire well to get more clearance if you retain the stock tank I'm told.

I've got a short water pump, want to mount an alternator on the upper passenger side, and owuld like to mount A/C on the passenger side as well to limit the length of the lines. Doable? How about in serpentine? I figure since alternator connections and A/C stuff is on that side this means shorter runs but I'm not sure how to do it... Have zero experience with A/C installs so I hop ethis sin't too bad to do - I've got most of the parts I need I think and a line on some others if I can get off my butt to go get them (ahem).

If anyone already has it I'd be willing to host it for a bit on my (mostly up) WEB server

I may be able to help with chiop software too as I've tried to collect what I've foound over the years.I'm not sure what all I've got but I'm quite sure I've got something that works for GNs at least. As for solid lifters - more power to you Pete but forget ever being able to run a knock sensor with whatever EFI setup you end up with. The noise from the lifters will retard your timing constantly.... That intake from the 305 still concerns me, I'd bet that if the motor isn't totally toast that you could get more power from the existing motor if you really tried. (shrug)

Randy - that salesguy isn't getting traction or running slicks if he's not busted the halfshafts! My buddy owns a Ford performance shop and rule #1 on IRS Mustangs is NO SLICKS! Even stock motors blow those halfshafts pretty easily. He's got a car in the shop now that had the gearset blow up - NOT the halfshafts. Yup, it's the aluminum centersection! I THINK this is th efirst center section he's seen blown. Ford dealer denied the kid warranty on it - seems they searched the car at the dealership, found some time slips, and kicked it out the door. Cute. I don't know if he ran slicks or not. Anyway, the IRS in the later model cars is different, I think, than what the T-birds ran. Worth looking at anyway but I'm pretty sure the track is much wider. Someone here mentioned a place making stronger Cobra halfshafts not long ago - perhaps that shop could make some custom length shafts too? I bet it won't be long before we begin seeing IRS rears on the open market for sale as Cobra racers upgrade to live rears. Axle tramping and all sorts of problems have been reported in addition to breakage - I don't get the feeling the drag racers like them and changing gears in that pumpkin is a PITA requiring cuttingwelding (!) if memory serves. I know at least one car out of my friend's shop has already dumped the IRS and I think Ford migh tmake it optional in an upcoming year - we'll see. Right now I'm not even sure SVT is going to get a Cobra out the door this coming model year - bummer!

Speeder - if you're just tyring to keep from getting a 4 series gear go for the clutch LSD from the 87.5-89 turbo 300ZX - these are ALL 3.7's. The 200SX cars with "mag wheels" are supposedly the ones with LSDs BTW. Zcar.com had a couple of good threads on it last I looked in their archives

Okay, I've tried to stay out but I feel I must make a point or two Street rods, like Mustang IIs aren't exactly billed as "handling machines". Many of th eMII suspensions I've seen put in cars have been for straightline use with a right turn onto the return road only for the most part. I HAVE been in a MII handling at the limit but I wasn't driving - it seemed to handle well even if it did pick up the inside tire on hard turns and fry it when setting it down (King Cobra). That car had lot's of roll and wasn't exactly built for handling - but that's sort of my point anyway. Ask the builders who make this stuff if any of their users are road racing etc. and maybe ask for a refrence or two... My advice is to be very careful and try to find out if anyone is using this stuff for road racing type apps. Even if this suspension turns out to NOT be the right one - there may be others out there so don't give up! I look forward to hearing how this comes out one way or the other...

Heh, I've not actually put them up for sale yet but I could be convinced Front of car is still sittingon them but the ass end is way up in the air and getting a 5lug conversion now. Condition is good but NOT perfect, I'll try to get some pics on the WEB site ASAP but my camera is still down and I think I'll be getting another one soon (grr). Have not set a price, do not know what they're worth. Am terrible at setting prices - make me an offer I can't refuse! (lol) Tires go with them - shipping could be a PITA tho'.

Thanks fo rthe links! Now, if we could just find a HID conversion that actually has hi-beams.... As for th eglass - having never broken them I can't say - it "seems" thick and is fairly heavy but I'm sorry that's not very helpful. I'll check for th ebumps next time I'm in the garage - it's damned cold here and I've been getting home pretty late here recently (sigh). Oh, and if you do th econversion I did - do NOT use the painless harness! I noted which one I thought was better in my article - it's cheaper and you won't be wasting valuable parts liek I did. I was forced to cut and solder some stuff - if you're going to do that anyway the other harness is mucho' better IMO but I've not had one in my hands so buyer beware...

Don't look at cars - look at trucks! I'm seeing ALL sorts of LED signals on trucks aroundhere. They must be retrofitting them from somewhere - look to the trucking supply industry, surely there's a vendor or two out there. I'll look as I've got time out on the 'net but I'd bet that this would work fine...

Honestly, I'd have no idea "blinding" a CCD camera while I was coming down the road (shrug). I'm pretty sure these things are all optically (sp?) sighted though so no worries. Cops around here hate to use them I'm told - it's more "work" to actually have to aim!

We've got a bit of a car mailing list at work A day or so ago the topic of 2 piece covers came up. The consensus, gather from personal experience and from the Chevy bulletin boards on the 'net, was that only the expensive 2 piece billet piece sold by one the vendors in Jeg'sSummit. Having had a one piece on a SBC that had a bad seal I can tell you it was a real PITA when I replaced the seal, dropping th epan down some, only to have to remove the damned pan in order to fix the REAR seal on it! Argh! Never again I hope... and yeah, I'm pretty sure I've got a one piece on my motor - th etwo piece covers always mention a thrust bearing and I'll be darned if I know what that's for or how to set it up. Fords don't have that stuff

I'm doing it for a low cruising RPM, however given Mike's experience I'm hoping that I CAN even use th esilly thing. If I can't I'll cry

and... that's batch fire injection, probably - okay almost certainly - MAP based. Improvements to airflow will cause the egine to "hunt" at idle and run poorly but some have had success modifying Mustang MAP motors just fine. The fact that it's got a poorer EFI setup would bother me if I were going to keep that. Not sure if th emotor has roller bosses for the cam if it's flat tappet either but I'm told, at least on the 351Ws, that so long as the cam isn't really big you can still run a roller just fine and not expose the oil holes. Roller blocks have taller lifter bores apparently... Oh - if it's a V8 then it will probably be a 302.

Heg, yeah but I've seen TONS of those "WC T5's" show up in pieces at my friend's shop. It's incredible what a punk squirrel kid can do to a T5 in short order. the T5s like Bob Hanlon drove were hand built and FAR from what you'd find coming of the SVO loading dock. At least the Z is lighter than the Mustang - that at least should help the life of the trans!

Hey guys... I think Painless Wiring JUST came out with a harness for the 5.0! I spotted it in one my latest Mustang mags - might be worth looking into. Apparently the 5.0 Ford harness runs th emotor only and not a ton of other things so it's not so bad to swap. Food for thought!

Heh, Jamie you sound like a possible goto for brake brackets We need those BAD!

Is this a GM crate motor? If so I'd check again for the roller bosses, I thought ALL GM blocks after a certain date had the bosses for a roller setup. Also, the 305 TPI intake is supposed to be more restrictive than the 350s - increasing your engines desire for air and not allowing it to breathe will yield less gains than if it could breathe. I agree on the ECU chip stuff - is this car MAF or MAP? If MAP then you'll have to be careful althoug if it handled the 305 to 350 "upgrade" without changes I'm surprised! It's possible that further optimizing some of what you've got will yield gains without a cam swap - worth a shot no?

Sweet, thank you! I'm so ignorant I didn't realize that the "clam shell" type was what I wanted. Now, WHY couldn't the Summit rep tell me that? Hrm, or was it Jeg's? Still - shouldn't they have known? Will look at my JTR book for the GM# and order up a set! I'm not concerned about vibration...