BLKMGK

I'm way confused and still brakeless Sounds like Mikelly's bracket, my (SCCA's)rotor, and some Outlaw calipers (?) might work with Willwood spots - yes? Am so confused. Really needed to roll the car around some last night while pulling the motor and couldn't. Ended up barely knicking the bumper as a result and the motor is in a position where I can hardly move around it in the garage - car needs to move! I hope someone can figure out a bracket solution even if it's from scratch. The 240 calipers are nothing to look at but they WILL stop the car so I may have to move forward with welding them on (shrug). Some silver brake paint might help maybe! (lol) Mike - that motor in th etruck yet? Might be time to do some welding?

I'm waiting for pics first! Hell, I've not even got the rear brakes done yet! IF I get all excited and go for these how easy would it be to switch from the 240SX to say OutLaw in the rear w/spot calipers? Really looking for a bolt-on as opposed to weld on here guys....

Clint - I'm 6 foot 2 and a bit over 200lbs (trying like hell to get lower!). My bar is the usual 4 point in back with bars going forward along the roof line and won to my feet into the footwells. I've also got side bars from about sholder height downwards to I think the front bar or floor. Climbing in and out with Recaro buckets is a bit of a pain but if you've ever looked inside the doors (mine's a 240) you'll see there's not AQUAT for protection! I mean we're talking a tiny piece of sheetmetal ribbing for side impact protection. Remove the guts and tap on it - the door rings like a church bell. Me, I'll suffer the PITA of climbing in and out - the car will be almost all street but not daily driver. I've seen side impact accidents and nearly T-boned someone a few times, I don't want to ever be on the recieving end of that! Now, having said that... My Mustang has an AutoPower bolt in bar. The sides of that bar go right along the rockers and join the roof bar in the footwell. Is that what you all are talking about? If so, it does act much like a subframe connector in preventing twist etc. However from the discussion here it sounds as if the flex point is further forward. It MIGHT give some side impact protection but it would depend on what it was trying to hit you - a telephone pole then yes it would protect. The pointy end of a Buick? I don't think so.... (shrug)

NO response from JCR since I last posted. Niiiice...

I've seen other group buys fall apart but in this case we're buying something that CANNOT be gotten elsewhere very easily. We all understand this and the price is fair (shrug). So far it looks liek the SDS order is going fairly well too - I'm not involved though. Personally, I think group buys are great. Look at the brake brackets too - many of us "need" them but they're made of "unobtanium" so if someone comes up with a fair price on those I'll bet we see the same thing. I know I'll be in on that one too Overall this group is pretty mature too - that helps! Heh, bet we could do the same for a decent radiator too if we could agree on one!

Do bear in mind that those WC transmissions used for the big guys are rarely right off the shelf in those apps and that they DO break. My friend's shop gets them in fairly regulerly from STREET driven Mustangs. The lighter weight WILL help IMO but I don't know how much.

Yeah, I've got a 3rd Gen RX7 - luv it I'm also probably the one that you saw mentioning this site over on the Mazda board.... I've seen this swap done a few times out on the WEB. I used to hear from a guy on the FordNatics mailing list who had done this in an older RX7 as well. I don't recall his name but he posted FREQUENTLY and was from the midwest. Other than that - keep hunting around. From what I've seen that swap is fairly popular. It's not quite as easy as the Z and migh tnot be quite as balanced (the rotary is VERY light) but it's worth looking into. We'd certainly be willing to help you with stuff that applies from our experience (shrug).

Heh, mr. K's sig is in my car too on the fuze panel cover Hey, has anyone posted this over on ZCAR.COM? I'd LUV to hear them talk about how the Z is a pig with a V8 in it (lol). Darius - what mufflers are you running BTW? Didn't sound too bad and I loved the idle lope...

I too am with Chris and Lone - I'm a Ford guy but when it really comes down to it I want reliable power! I also wanted a manual trans and 6speeds. Yeah, could've done this with Ford and I've got Ford parts and friends all over but... The SBC swap is documented, the parts are built (mounts etc), and it's just the easier path. You on the other hand are already taking the hard road with the suspension. Going Ford for you isn't that big a deal and a stroked 351W would probably get you pretty close to your HP goal - the 392 Crate motor from Ford looks niiiice. Going even bigger with Ford parts doesn't seem too hard either and seems more popular than for SBCs IMO. It's common to see 427 351W but I've yet to see a SBC in a street car that big. I'd also suggest not limiting yourself on power adders. A blown motor will hit that number EASILY and be much more docile. Blowers and turboes are flat out awesome.

Z Dreamer - what was aid above is true - they provide good low end grunt but DO heat the air more than say a Centrifigul blower. Compared to an older Roots style though they rock! You see them in Pro Mod alot I believe. for a boat they sound pretty good but ATI has been making big inroads in that arena too so I'd look closely at them - they've apparently won a few shootouts. ATI has a Marine division so be sure to check them out - geared properly they can make boost off idle and I've even seen them make boost free revving, something my Paxton blower could NEVER do. That's boost as in several pounds BTW - say 5-7 - with no load! Forced induction is awesome....

One Step seem to work well - it's from Marhyde. I had access to the interior of th erail on my parts car - I was trying to save that car so I poured some POR in there and blew it around with an air gun. Best I could think of at the time (sigh). This is a really tough problem!

Yeah but I don't think many people would see it. I think mine is going to get replaced with a box for 6X9 speakers anyway. The side firing stock locations just don't seem to make sense to me...

I THINK that the R180 mount up front is different. I've been told that you can turn it around 180degrees to get it to fit but I have not done it myself. Other than that I BELIEVE that the swap is as straightforward as you mentioned...

I think he sells them Mike (jab jab) Hrm, how hard would it be to dupe those brackets? Does Jim Cook still sell them? How hard to add spot calipers for an E-brake? Outlaw makes a 1000 caliper that would match your front ones - saw them in Pegasus just last night.... Heh, I can see it now - I'll have million dollar rear brakes and 4Runner stuff on the front. Kripes, I might just have to fire up the buffer and make them shine to compensate. Or but the Outlaw setup once I see Mike's. Frankly though - I want it on the road before I go further over the edge and that means fixing the rear setup asap! P.S. Just tried sending JCR a note about their brackets - mail server on my end may be misbehaving though (sigh). Will post details here asap if I get a response. I'm also going to ask about a group purchase [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited February 07, 2001).]

Cool! I've been meaning to do this myself but never had the time or a very good source picture. I may try adding a few other wheels to the mix with a copy of the pic - I'll post them if I'm successful! Heh, maybe I'll just color that car red to look liek mine and be happy Mike - are you saying you should've gone with shorter or longer springs? I'm pretty sure shorter and I think SCCA specc'ed out short ones for me - I'll measure later. I'm still pondering Konig's and TSW but the Cobra stuff nearly falls out of trees for me and you've found a darned good price on them. Need to get the brakes sorted out first though (sigh).

How about this - Outlaw 1000 calipers on a custom bracket w/spot calipers for the E-brake? Oh, and I'd like to be able to use an E-brake cable that's obtainable As for the $160 price... for a good rear bracket that didn't require major assembly to install (leave the stub axle in!) and an aluminum caliper to go with an off the shelf rotor (solid is okay) I'd be willing to shell out that cash. I only spec the aluminum caliper because if I've got to go custom I might as well make it look nice. IMO the 4runner calipers look decent but the SX calipers look rough - mine will receive paint for sure! Bummer that the bracket won't work 5 lug. It works 4lug okay? Heh, redrill the 4lug rotor maybe? But then I've already got the rotors and calipers, perhaps it's time to bite the bullet and weld these puppies on...

In my case I'm pretty sure that the studs got centered up when I pressed om the rotor. I'll let everyone know when I test drive it but don't hold your breathe waiting

Doh! Don't read in for a couple of nights and look what happens! I'm IN too. Scottie - have you got a PayPal address? Again - I'm in!

What's in it? I'm betting steel heads, cast pistons, flat tappet cam, maybe even an iron intake? Find out what EXCATLY is in it and do your homework - don't be penny wise pound foolish. I WOULD also look closely at the GM crate motors. Some of their lower end motors aren't too expensive and while they may not make 350hp out of th ebox Super Chevy has been building them up with good success. Lastly, 350HP on who's dyno? I've been told 450 for my built motor but some of the number runs done here on the combo come up short of that number. Likewise, my 351W is supposed to make 600+ but until I see some proof I'll always caveat that figure with a chunk of salt. Big numbers sell engines but be careful...

Still coming down for me but I can see plenty - I LOVE those valve covers and it just looks NICE all snug in there. Heh, worth getting the blower repaired huh? Up to this point I'd been waffling on a supercharger, it's not liek I don';t have one on the other car but... Ah hell, I want one for the Z too! I'll get it running carbed first, go fuelie next Winter maybe, and seriously consider a blower. I mean geez, just how sick can a Z get?! Even sounds liek my Mustang! What wheels are those too? Let's see some more stills of the car - I've lost the previous WEB site but the more the better. I'll help out posting if space is needed... P.S. Yeah, I could've done without the donuts but hey it's is video and I'm glad he shared it with us

IF that's the Zf 6 speed run away! It's heavier has a funky "dual mass" flywheel and is nearly impossible to get parts for. The JTR book covers this - if not the Z book then the TPI book. In short - the T56 is a superior trans for this swap....

http://www.google.com/search?q=Sparco+hood+pins++&btnG=Google+Search That's how I found them. There are pictures on at least a couple of sites.

Okay, I'll admit that creeped me out too. I see "fish" in sales ads occasionally and I really have to wonder if I want to do business with someone that will mix something as personal as religion in with it. I got my parts, he did it quickly and well, but it was a bit obvious that he didn't clearly understand the 'net (security in particular). That actually worries me more than anyhting else to be honest. I hope to heck the server storing those card numbers is secure. I've half a mind to check myself but the last thing I need is the FBI knocking on my door for a port scan or worse my emplyer getting wind of it (ahem).

Dump th elatch and use a pair of hood pins in place of th ehood bumpers? Sparco makes some that look pretty good in anodized aluminum and is what I will be using...

I've got a late 351W with a P1200 in my Mustang. Predicted HP with 10lbs of boost is 600-650, I doubt the higher number to be honest. I'm told that at 650 the crank becomes iffy and that you shouldn't spin them much past 6L due to the size of the main bearings (shrug). Unfortunatly that car is on the back burner as I work on the Z off and on. After taking so long to put together (again) I've just lost energy on it. The fact that it will need to pass emissions really stinks too - it's an '88. The heads are TFS hi-ports that have been worked, not sure on compression. I'd be happy with a 500HP reading to be honest but I've got to get it running and tuned first before I worry about it. Blowers are AWESOME and if I can fit one on the Z I may be very tempted. The bottom end was built with this in mind and friends of mine are ATI dealers...