BLKMGK

Anothe rplus about that flywheel to note - it's SFI rated. I was attempting to use an LT1 flywheel with my 383 stroker crank and one piece rear seal block - no go! Seems the crank will fit that block but that it uses an old style flywheel. Anyway, the engine builder actually said that with as much HP as I was going to push he was much more comfortable with an SFI flywheel on there than th estock LT1. I was sold the flywheel at his cost direct from Centerforce - $250. Since there are as yet no blowshields for this trans and only a rumored trans blanket that I know about - an SFI flywheel isn't a bad idea if you're gong to beat on the engine at all... Food for thought...

Heeey! Now that sounds kind of nice! I don't suppose there are pics anyplace? How did you manage to get a price for an aluminum one - call them? I went through their pages but I'm pretty sure I was being quoted a standard copperbrass deal. This could be pretty cool if it could handle our cooling needs... Aren't a few of us running "heavy duty" radiators designed for the L6s?

Myron, maybe consider using an older computer and going with the LT1Edit software? As for mileage and power on the LS1s - 37?! Hrm, I wonder how it's making that much more power and mileage over the LT1. Could the LT1 be tuned to make that much power? What exactly makes the LS1 so superior other than lighter weight? Actually while we're at it - what's different in the LT4 too While a few MPG might be nice it's harder to swap, harder to find, more expensive, and less is known about this motor. I'll applaud like mad when folks swap them in and document the heck out of it but for the added hassle I'm not sure it's something I'd want. If this is a first time swap for someone - would you really recommend it? Daddyrick - shoot the pics my way if you need a quick place to post them. I'd LOVE to see them! Please take lot's of pics ot help others...

Compression might be a touch high on the street if it's got iron heads. Try to find out what rods it's got. Overall it sounds damned nice for $2K IMO - I've got something like $4K in my 383 and it should make HP righ tabout where that one does - but I know I've got aluminum heads. How much wear is it likely to have suffered in a season of racing? Will the cam need to come out for the street? I'm not sure it's got a full $6K in it judging from what I put into mine but I wouldn't be surprised if it's got a good $4K in it at least. Post the spec sheet as soon as you've got it - you may have a winner there. Oh, the NOS... I'd be VERY careful with compression that's that high unless the heads are aluminum and even then... Frankly, with 425 horse will you really need NOS? Well okay - I've talked about it too I'll admit I THINK that NOS can handle the higher compressions better than say a turbo since it will really cool the charge. I'd say run the 400+ HP first and then decide if you really want NOS - this is what I'm going to do.

Aw dang - those are the wheels I'm going with on MY Orange car - in 17Xwhatever Lol, it does look damned sweet though doesn't it? I'm going to be doing wheel research tonight if time allows and using those pics to mix and match I think. Not sure I'll find a nicer looking wheel though. Let me know if you find a good place to buy TSW wheels too - sounds like we're on the same hunt... Oh, and yes there's a good 5lug topic in the other thread. If you can upgrade the brakes while you're at it. MikeSCCA's 12inch brake setup must be seen to be believed! We're working on something for the rear now too - hang tight. You wouldn't want ugly drums behind those nice wheels would you? Especially with the extra holes showing

I'd love to run 245 all around - 255's would be all the better! Please do let us know how it works with a stock fender Mike, mine aren't even rolled I don't think. I'm still pondering wheels but with brakes getting so close I'm realizing I'm going to have to speed up this selection! I'll be hunting aorund to see what the various Mustang places have to offer here soon. Mike really does seem to have found a terrific place to get those wheels BTW. I hope they make dupes of others. If I can I'll probably go for a 17X8 wheel, I just don't think I'll be running wide enough tires to warrant the 9s but it will dpeend on what all is offered. The TSW wheels really look nice but are bux... I'll keep everyone posted and maybe do some photoshop work to see what various wheels look like. If I do this I'll use the Orange turbo car that looks so much like mine since I've at least got decent side pics of that car I think... I'm running 10inch springs (225/200lbs) with 7inch pipes. The seats in the rear are mounted about 7.5inches from the top, not sure about the fronts. We took measurements from Mikelly's car to estimate where to put the seats. Hrm, the longer springs going to hurt me? I'm hoping to have plenty of adjustment room....

Mike - don't need no polished stuff Since the Outlaws are a nice black having polished spots wouldn't make much sense. Have you checked through any of the Street Rod type mags? If I can dig one up I'll try to find some cheaper prices - kind of in my interest to do so huh? (lol)

Well, I looked at LOTS of gauges before going with Autometer. The import stuff is really cool and the lit up numbers as opposed to lighting the whole gauge on some of them is really nice - not to mention peakhold functions in some lines. However I could never find a good speedo and tach - they were all either butt ugly, too small, or read in metric. VDO - size problems and again butt ugly in many cases! I knew I wanted an electric speedo so there's no cable garbage with the T56 to worry about and I wanted an LCD trip - Autometer finally has it. So far as accuracy goes - I use gauges to judge what's normal and what's not. I'm also using mechanical gauges for the full sweep - on the Z it really shouldn't be THAT hard to install them. It is very disappointing to hear that they're not accurate and I have to wonder if it's the senders that are flakey or the gauge itself. Pete - did you try more than one sender? Might be interesting to compare one gauges readings at various voltages with another. Very disappointing that they reference their readings from input voltage too - how hard would it have been to take care of that problem? Sheesh! Hrm, has anyone tried sending their support folks E-mail about this? Unlike Energy Suspension Autometer actually answers their mail!

Heh, it's sounding liek I should've asked aorund here before I bough tth eDynamat stuff as some of the other options are pretty attractive and cheaper. I REALLY like the bedliner idea but the interior is in now and I'm NOT going to yank it apart again if I can help it!

Kevin - the specs are in the GM catalog. The ZZ430 was a 430HP 350 that was limited production and "signed" kind of thing. It had "Hot Heads", the Hot Cam, and I'm not sure what else. The 385 horse motor just has the nice heads - no cam The ZZ430 was big bucks, tough to get, and now sold out. The 385 is an AWESOME deal IMO and the addition of a cam would make it a 430 sans signature valve covers. Oh, and one of the GM places is selling a ZZ430 build-alike that has the new EFI setup on it with a reprogrammed ECU. It too is insane cash.....

Double check the motor mounts - I seem to recall that they MIGHT be different. Also, th eLS1 has a T56 that's specific to it, if that's the trans you want you'd probably want them as a pair. That's an OBDII (III?) motor and one of the new breed that throw fits if everything isn't there. This might cause problems unless you want to retrofit catalytic converters and things of that sort. Since I've seen at least one of these in a Street Rod type mag in an loder car perhaps some of these fears aren't correct. I'd certainly say that you should research this VERY thoroughly before spending any money. The Street Rod folks would probably be your best bet. Lastly, other than the "Wow" factor - why an LS1? It's not the easiest road and I'm not sure it's actually got any big advantages over an LT1 swap to be honest. Not trying to discourage you but that's worth considering...

Hey Terry - aren't those the ones you wanted me to post on my page? They're up and I've sent you links

No sway bar bushings? I'm not to that point yet but.. they did include a measuring tape that I ASSumed was to measure the bar. If not I wonder what that thing is for?! I'll update when I know - I've got a HUGE bar that I might use but I'm not sure I want to risk my frame rails...

Mike/SCCA over at fonebooth.com sells plenty of brake kits - some are HUGE! If you're not willing to go hi-dollar then upgrading to Toyota calipers and possibly the rotors too would really help. I'm betting you'll want to stay with 4lug wheels that don't cost a mint so that will help guide your decision. As I understand it there are basicly two setups (unless you go bigger $$)- Toyota calipers with solid stock rotors and Toyota calipers with vented rotors. The vented is the better choice for hard(er) driving however I found that the solid rotors did okay on my car. The advantage of the Toy calipers on the stock rotor was greater pad contact. Those brakes from my car are now for sale and I'm looking to go with BIG brakes and 5lugs. Others here and at Zcar.com can help you decide which is best and what parts to get. I think Mikelly's WEB page has a tech article on the vented setup. Research them both - I'd also say research the BIG brakes that SCCA offers. They are more expensive but possibly not that bad over over the Toyota stuff. Probably not in the realm of what Baer would charge at least

Weren't those installed by Nissan on cars that were having vapour lock issues with the carbs? This is ringing a very vague bell with me - I'd LOVE to see a pic too, I'll host if needed

I won't go "there" concerning Arizona - I've beat that horse to death. However, I too am curious about what wheel width will work 5lug with and without coilovers. I will be trying my 17X8 Mustang wheels and my RX7's wheels to see hwo they fit and will let everyone know when the times comes. Pics too maybe - the Mustang wheels will look pretty goofy I think.

Was over at Mike's today - sorry I missed Pete yesterday Man, those brakes look GREAT! I thought the calipers would weigh a ton - Mike handed me one and my jaw hit the floor. These puppies as a pair probably weigh what the Toy stuff does EACH. I don't know about the rotors but I'm sold - I'm going to sell what I've got to someone who doesn't need this much brake and buy a set for myself - who also doesn't need that much brake I took some pics and will post them after I've dumped them from the camera if they come out. I'll link here if there's anything really interesting to point out. Need to figure out the wheel thing too. Mike's wheels look 100% awesome but I'm not sure I'll be able to run 9inch wide rims with a stock wheelwell..? I'm also not keen on making my car look too much like his as we're likely to be seen at some of the same places together and they shouldn't look too much alike IMO.. P.S. Guys, I got mail from JCR in refrence to their brackets (finally). $179 Now the question is will they fit the Outlaw stuff (sounds like Mike got his elsewhere) and what would we do for an E-Brake? Me, I think I'll wait to see what SCCA can cook up for me with Wilwood spots.. [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited February 19, 2001).]

Mustang guys will cut grooves in the center of the swaybar bushings up front, drill a hole, and use Zerk fittings to quiet them down. I didn't do this and had to spray silicone spray on them for over a year before they shut up! If the Z squeeks like that at every bushing I'll need a VERY loud stereo asap...

Anti-sieze? Oh yes, I have a TUB of it It's on ALL of the suspension bolts but not on the bushings - I used the supplied grease for that. When I put the struts back in they will be FULL of that stuff, not to worry! Mike and I got the perches done - now I just need brakes! (lol) I spotted his new front brakes - I'm in luv! I expect I'll be setting up myself with a set of those pretty soon - need to sell the current setup(s) first.

The closest I've come to "racing" pads were the ones that came with the Cobra brakes I put on the Mustang. I don't think I'd EVER want something more aggressive than that for the street driving I do. The first 4 or 5 stops on a cool morning were eye openers. I've got a short steep hill just out of my driveway with a stop sign at the bottom - on cold mornings this was a real thrill! Apply brakes - nothing happening, apply harder - a little better, stand on it hard - Whoa horsie! No thanks The neat metallic grinding sound I've heard from some "race brakes" is something I'd want to do without as well. Really aggressive pads eat rotors until they reach operating temps - yikes! Hrm, will you be using these on the street?

First - I've not done this nor heard of it being done. Having said that - check out the Vega steering columns. When I had a Vega (ahem) I bought a column at a sawp meet for it that had tilt - my current one at the time didn't. The column was pretty short like the one in the Zs and if there were going to be one that would work and wasn't bulky that would be my first GUESS. The one I had was pretty thin. Now - why would you want to do this? Are you looking to gain tilt or just more reliable switches maybe? If you switch to relays on the headlights the headlight switch won't burn up if that's an issue. I'd worry that with tilt you'd have your fingers too close to the dash?

Honestly I've not done the LT1 swap but I believe others here have or are planningresearching it. My 383 is still in a box! What you're talking about sounds just like what Darius did with his car - ATI Procharger and an LT1. Not sure what he did to beef the bottom end but for a mild applicaiton you might not have to get too radical. The PM rods are supposed to be pretty good! In my case I went with forged pistons and crank along with Eagle H-beams (or was it I?). I overbuilt this puppy - you migh tnot need to goto that extreme...

I agree on the lag - nothing is worse than hitting boost in the middle of an offramp when you're not expecting it! My RX has a wounded primary turbo right now - at 4200RPM when the secondary kicks in it hits hard enough to cause trouble in a corner. It goes from 6lbs of boost to nearly 12 in the blink of an eye and feels like a NOS hit. Fun and all but the clutch isn't happy and is checking out on me. A Stage II setup with a nice beefy turbo would be fun. If I felt more comfortable with the GN drivetrain and the plumbingfabrication I wouldn't mind plopping one in a Z myself. Having driven a GN or two I really like them and almost bought one more than once. Talk about smooth powermakers... I guess I'll just have to settle with a V8 and maybe a blower down the road to make up for it!

I got it fixed! I also got to use a new tool I started off with a hand chisel and my sawzall - no hacksaw for me thanks! I started by cutting them as best I could in about 3 places, then using the chisel to push the edges inwards - talk about slow.. Then I remembered th e$13 air chisel I just got from Northern Freight. Someone else had mentioned using one of these and when I saw it in their ad for $13 I picked one up - glad I did! Once I had an edge started I could use the chisel to pound on it and slowly cut it up. It's adjustable so I could lessen the power as needed (good thing too!). I just kept going back and forth with the chisel and sawzall till I managed to pound them out - sure glad I don't need to reuse the shells, they were TOAST. They were also seized 100% - I used a little liquid wrench on them while I was at it. I really feel stupid for not having noticed this but if Energy Suspension had put in ANY instructions at all I might have been able to avoid this. Sheesh! P.S. I'd have documented this but I was so darned cold and so darned mad that taking pics didn't occur to me till the end! What few pics I've taken lately are on my site under misc Z Pics

Got them out - I"m posting in another thread. i really would like to find some more lube - Jeg's sells some but it's not cheap. A nice big tube of it would be good and not these little thimble containers they stuck us with! Graphite would be good too but I guarantee you they would still squeek. I considered doing grease fittings but I'll wait to see how badly they make noise first. I'll post an update in the thread where I've been keeping everyone up on this - decent progress today! Oh, and I had to put everything together and pull it apart at LEAST 5 times! Still learning? Oh yes - big time! It'll go back together first try next time but with the LSD brace, cut back crossmember, and me taking care with the powdercoat it was slow going. I'm beat!