BLKMGK

Okay, still SOME confusion here Removing material from the spring perch up top will lower the body but I'd think it would remove some travel. I'm not real clear here but I guess removing above where the spring mounts makes the difference? I'd still think that would change where the body sits and move things on the strut rod.... As fo rmeasurements: Wheels and tires on my RX7 are 225/45ZR17s (Nittos) - height is 24.5 Wheels and tires on my Z are 225/50/15's of various brands (ahem). Height is 23inches. I thought these were a much stranger size! Looking at them it looks like a MUCH bigger difference! 1.5inches moves the hub and body of the car only 3/4 of an inch upwards, yes? I guess this comes down to what you're trying to do - better handling or better looks. I'm happy with my ride height now but not if it means trashing struts! Going upwards but filling the wheelwell wouldn't be too bad would it? I had no bumpstops before - I will this time (sigh). I don't want to section my struts and play bingo with cartridges and spacers dang it! Seems to me that sectioning the struts but not going shorter on the carts makes the problem worse. Lowering the car via coilovers but not sectioning the strutscarts is bad too. This is a street car. I've got no idea now what to do except maybe put it together and let it eat - hopefully not struts!

While talking to the MSA guy on the phne he mnentioned someone he knew who was swapping in 300ZX stubs in the REAR. Anyone thought about this? Would it buy you anything over just drilling out to 5lug? Bigger rear brakes maybe? What about swapping over any of the rest of the suspension back there? It sounded as if this guy was building a crossmember and everything. Perhaps to get the later diff in place back there he did this? He didn't say what year 300ZX so I'm not sure on the last part. Looking at the drawings in the catalog the later suspensions look MUCH different (and heavier) but that 4series LSD sure looks purty

Pics of mine are finally up BTW.

Some stray thoughts that kept me from sleeping last night... 1) I just ordered 4 "stock height" strut carts. 2) Z's supposedly have only 2-3inches of suspension travel according to JTR. 3) Lower the car an inch and you lose 1/3rd travel. Lowering springs or sectioning the struts - same thing. Removing "spacers" between the strut and the mount - same thing, loss of strut travel. Using cambercaster plates that raise the mount of the strut higher into the body of the car would be "safe" - they make these for Mustangs but I don't know about Zs. Shortening the Mustache bar bushings would also possibly not be safe - not sure this effects ride height. 4) To compensate for loss of strut "at rest" height you can use shorter strut carts - see #1 above. Grr! I never realized my car was this low. My 2nd rear cart was totally dead too. 5) You can use stock front carts in back to help solve #4. VW Rabbit carts go in front? Front carts for the Z were the more expensive of the sets so I've not thrown away too much if I have to go VW and section. 6) 2 reasons to lower the car - A)looks as in filling the wheel wells and B)handling as in lower CG and roll center. However too low and you get funky suspension angles and scrape everywhere! I didn't scrape that I could feel but there were some scrapes under the car and one rear arm took a nasty hit before I bought the car - it's being replaced just in case. I'm running 15inch wheels now I believe with some whacky tire size, I'll post tire height and tirewheel size tonight. Running a shorter sidewall should be a "safe" way to lower the car without screwing up the struts. This would give you a "quicker" rear gear too without adding stress to the rear end. As you go lower in gears torque multiplication goes up and so could parts breakage? So, since I'm going to 17's anyway - why not run a taller wheeltire combo? Overall ride height might go up but filling the wheel wells would be accomplished. Since I expect my oil pan to be down a bit raising overall height wouldn't be too bad I don't think. I've got 225/45/ZR17s on 17inch Konig Tantrums on the Z that I'm going to test fit as soon as I can. Overall height should be taller than what I've got now - which looks damned short to me. I've also got 245/50's on 17 inch Mustang wheels I'll try out - these are even taller I THINK. If 225/45's are too tall then I might drop to 16's since too short a sidewall invites wheel damage if you hit a damned pothole. Am I tracking right guys? Which VW struts work? Valving okay? Spacers needed under the cart? If I go taller wheeltire do I still need to section? Obviously given a choice I'd prefer NOT to since I've got parts on the way and it's a PITA to do and I'd have to have someone else do it. Jeronimo - can you measure your tire height please? I'd like to know how tall your's are to help compare. My tire was just under the edge but it never rubbed that I could feel. I also never felt the struts bottom that I could feel but it had NO bumpers so who knows. Top of strut itself showed no wear and the bottoms of the carts looked fine. Obviously my car looks lower than yours but I can't help but wonder if it's the tire package that's doing it as it's pretty short. Heh, good thing I'll be running an electronic speedo to compensate for all this whackiness! P.S. I'm going 5lug so the Panasports will be going. I like them and they're in good shape but I'd like 16s at least and 17s most likely. Panasport doesn't appear to make 17s or even 5lugs in that style dammit. TSW makes a nice wheel I admire, Konigs look good and so do some of the Mustang wheels. We'll see... [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited December 28, 2000).]

I've got one of their kits - except I was stupid and didn't order direct. Yes, the price difference was "significant" dammit. As for fit... Doors actually fit fine on my car. Rear hatch on the other hand is another story. I had to section it in two places as the corners weren't "right". when they replaced the glass in my front widnshield and the seal in the back they had a hell of a time getting the chrome in, it looks a little funky. I also foound out the hard way that these seals weren't as wide as stock and ended up with a strip of original paint showing under each of them. Seems the original owner didn't have the glass pulled for his paint job (sigh). Overall, the kit worked. However if you're really picky you might not like it. I'm not sure the rear hatch is sealing right either - I smelled some exhaust and I think the weatherstrip was rolling over when I closed th ehatch tight. Need to crawl in there and look before it sees much road duty down the line...

Wait a sec... Galvanized and welding? It can't be true galvanizing if they say you can weld on it - wedling galvanized metal is supposed to release noxious gasses that are VERY bad. Am I crazy here?

Pauli - the T56 in the later cars is a different design so far as bellhousing etc. go - the LS1 IS different I'm afraid. Look to the T56s that can be swapped in place of the T5s. Figure out what's different The TPI/TBI manual from JTR has a pic of them side by side if memory serves so that might help. Do you have the measurements on a stock Datsun tranny? You're local so if you want to check out my TPI book let me know. I've also got an OEM T56 in the garage you can look at if you'd like.

Aww man, now I'm wondering if I should be considering this (sigh). Pulled my second KYB today - dead as a doornail! I'm wondering if it got bottomed out or not... Trouble is - I'm not sure how much lower than stock my car iswas! I never saw it "stock" and I forgot to measure it before I pulled it apart. I'm sure I can get a measurement by lowering the back end with the jack. From the rocker - what's stock ride height? If you look at my pics the ride height doesn't look too low, does it? Wheels fill the wells just fine but are kinda short IMO. [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited December 27, 2000).]

Z heck, someone put that drivetrain in a Lexus! That sucker moves!

If you guys need measurements and don't have one handy let me know. I'm sure my friend's shop will have a Mustang onthe lift next time I'm over (lol - that's all he works on) so I can try to get the measurements or crawl under mine. Not sure if the SN95 and earlier FOX bodies are different - shall I check? For that matter - this might work for those of us using T56's too...

Heh, now that's a new one on me - EEC-Tuner?! For a moment I thought that perhaps Mike Wesley's stuff had finally made it out the door but I'm not so sure from the descriptions. I'll have to read into the SN95 forum to get a better idea. BXR intake? Hrm, if memory serves that's the REALLY wild ram tuned intake that someone made? There was even one that had dual runners and a valve to switch between them. BIG bucks if that's the one you mean and honestly I think ram tuning will only get you so far - start modifying other things on the engine and you throw off the design specs for the intake. (sigh) If memory serves this one ever required a distributor that was run off of a belt (ouch). Duh, there's a link up there - yeah that's the one! Damned nice but very pricey. Heh, I run Street Heat TFS heads too My 42s are Lucas, sorry. Bosch is big bux usually, didn't realize they came stock on the Lightnings - same style of injector? I'm betting not since the other mod motor injectors are really funky looking. I believe once I get off my butt, set the timing, and get the programming sorted that my 42s ought to idle okay. I've talked to guys who have run 83s (?!) on the street and they claim it worked okay. Talk about a quick pulse for idle!

Morgan - I've got SCCA's stuff for my 240 - fits like a glove. I'll have to grnd off the stock perch to get them low enough on the housing but it's no biggie. It's actually lot's easier than I expected it to be - adding brakes at the same time is making it a little more complicated though. No pics taken yet, sorry guys. Camera hasn't been cooperating lately (sigh). Update: Perches removed. I used a bench grinder, had them off in a jiffy! Sleeves slide right past, need to find some metal for a new support and have it welded on. Vroom! [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited December 27, 2000).]

Ummmm http://24.4.88.29/ubb/Forum6/HTML/000307.html We just went over most of this in gory detail the last couple of days. I'm in the EXACT same position as you with the exception of using GC parts. I've decided to skip the adjustable stuff, I don't think it's needed that badly based on feedback I've gotten from those who've used it. If you've got the cash by all means go for it but expect to be into it about $450 a set. You WILL be grinding on the stut housing, NOT the strut itself - it's a cartridge. In my case I'm going to use a sawzall to cut the existing perches off and then grind the rest off. I don't think it'll be too hard to do. I've no welder so I'll be getting help from friend's there - not 100% sure on where the lower perch goes but I only have to get in the ballpark - this stuff is adjustable My spring rates are 200# and 225#. While you've got it all apart - consider doing brakes....

Heh, ever shifted a Tremec? I have - I've got one in my Mustang. I still can't hit third gear reliably after driving the smooth T5 for so many years. The Tremec's tend to shift crappy, and the stock Tremec shifter is complete junk! Now, a T56 - that would be a nicer trans! But the expense would be crazy I'm afraid. Up to you obviously but a modded T5 would be the next best step up from a T5 and might not be as expensive as you think. If you've broken T5s with less HP before than a stock one is probably not going to last this time either. (shrug)

Welll - interesting on the Koni Ds - thank you! MSA looks to only stock Tokico and KYB now. The KYB I just pulled from the car now looked to have little obvious wear yet is blow about as bad as can be. Tokico supposedly bought out a competing brand for the stuff they run on the 240Z and I'm starting to lean that way. Heh, I had actually nearly ordered some Koni gas carts but held back - glad I did. This won't be a daily driver so perhaps the base Tokicos will be fine - after all it's not like I even knew the KYB was dead till I pulled it! Thanks guys, appreciate all the feedback!

How's the fluid level in the trans? Is it the right fluid?

A T5 built "right" shoudl be able to take the power of a turbo 6 IMO. Lot's of upgrades have been made to that trans in the years since it was last in a Z. Find yourself one that will bolt up and if you're worried about breaking it give HanlonMotorsports a call. I'm pretty sure their WEB site is http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com Bob is a good guy and races a Mustang. He uses what he sells, he ought to be able to build a T5 more than capable of handling that 6 and many V8s too!

Well let's see... rebuildable, adjustable, and $59 a corner. Man, that's tough to beat! I've got Konis on th eMustang, they work just fine for me. Next question is, can they be found elsewhere cheaper and from what app did they come? If the guy had't been so damned mean and ornery the last time I spoke with him I'd pick up the phone this moment and call him! Price isn't the issue here, it's his customer skills! I'll hunt aroound and see if his part #s come close to matching up with anything out there and report back what I find. Thanks for the feedback Mike, hell for that price it's worth a shot to try them. Waitaminute! ZBarn sells adjustable Konis too - for $190 a corner! Want to bet that the Arizona cartridges aren't adjustable? Mike, did yours come from ArizonaZ and were they red? Hrm! The ones in his picture ARE adjustable - you just have to zoom in like mad to see that. No part # visible of course. Okay - I smell a rat -> http://www.classicgarage.com/classicgarage/parts-koni-shocks-nissan--datsun-.html Note the cost difference on the adjustable carts. Non-adjustable might be okay though and the price is right. ArizonaZ has to be selling the non-adjustables with a pic of the adjustables up on the site (grr). Also, it looks like the Konis must be REMOVEd in order to be adjusted - yes? http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:www.mame.mu.oz.au/salman/zsuspens.html+koni+strut+adjustable+datsun+240z&hl=en if so that pretty much defeats the purpose for me. A BlueBird site mentioned Monroe as being pretty good and working as well as Konis in a racing situation. Who'd have thunk it? Same posting mentioned the Tokicos as being really good as well. http://bluebirds.datsun510.com/Nov98/msg00119.html Yes, I'm going round in circles here! At least the next poor guy who worries about this will have lot's of info to peruse [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited December 26, 2000).]

Duh, didn't even think to look over there. With the grief I've gotten in the past from that guy it hadn't even occured to me! Don't ever try buying fiberglass from him (grr). Anyone else use the Konis? His sites says "extremeley stiff" and that they must be used with stiffer than stock springs. The price is certainly right - I'm surprised I've not seen the Konis in a 240Z app any place else. Is it possible these are adapted to this application? Woul dit make sense for me to consider strut inserts for other apps with a spacer? I'm not interested in cutting my strut housings down - I don't need to lower my car that severely. TIA! P.S. He's got tubular rear suspension arms. $249 apiece. Hrm, might have to chat with my chassis guy and see if he thinks he could build a set of them easily. I did find a used arm to replace my damaged one at ZBarn for $25. Need to call them up ASAP I finally realized that the arms are the same for both sides only flipped over (smack).

Strange, tried typing it in and it refused to go but... http://www.mcmaster.com/ works from Google. I've been to this site - perhaps our 10mm to 12mm bolts might be found here too Am about to watercool my computer again so I might want a couple of gauges to tinker with. Vroom! So far I don't see a gauge meetng my needs but I'm still looking - LOT'S of stuff! Hrm, here's one - handheld Fluke for $194. Ouch! Page 438 for that - that price is sans thermocouples too BTW. I've posted a plea in their forums [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited December 25, 2000).]

Let me know how it goes Chris. If that swap can be done and stronger CVs done along with it that would be VERY cool. If you can get it such that it doesn't require too much fabbing and kit the sucker people will be screaming for the parts. Just don't tell anyone until I've sold off my LSD R200 for something in the $500 range first Morgan I'm also interested in how your swap turns out. I was told the diff I've got is a 3.90 but I'm now not sure it's an R180 - looks pretty close to the R200 and the moustache bar looked R200 style too. I DID find a page that described using stainless tubing to make spacers for the ring gears, honestly I think ARP would be a better source. I've talked to folks that have had them make bolts before but it wasn't cheap. Shouldered capscrews might be worth a shot and certainly cheaper, possibly quicker to get too. For now I'm worrying about getting my 3.7 swapped in and the rest done - I'll fine tune things like gear ratio and CV stuff next Winter perhaps. No sense getting too deep into it just yet.

Well, here's what I got from SHOX.com ======================================= Your Car: 1972 DATSUN 240Z (2WD) Preference: TOKICO Product: AUTOS Supplier: TOKICO Model: 240Z/260Z Year: 1970-741/2 Premium Performance Front: HZ3015 Premium Performance Rear: HZ3016 Illumina Front: BZ3015 Illumina Rear: BZ3016 Special Prices on products for your 70-78 Nissan 240Z-280Z Tokico's are Shocks $239.00, Tokico Illumina's (externally adjustable) $449.00 KYB shocks $169.00 Sets of 4 Sway Bars,S/T kit F&R $229.00 Coil Over Kit, $399.00 includes Eibach ERS springs, no struts. 0 to 2.5' lowering Strut Brace,N/A Eibach 1" lowering $199.00 (lowers 1") Suspension Techniques springs $169.00 ( lowers 1") Energy Suspension complete urethane bushing kit $149.95 Powerslot Rotors $69.95 each front , and no rears Carbon Metallic Brake Pads $49.95 per axle. =========================================== I've seen prices pretty close to the $449 from a place or two. GroundControl wants close to $500, MSA and VB close to $600! SHOX bushing price isn't too bad IMO, it's close to what I paid at the URL I linked above. Nopi's vaunted "Online Catalog" is down so I've no idea what they'd charge - I'll try later. Here's another -> http://www.cyberauto.com/ "Tokico Illumina Adjustable Strut Cartridges: '70-74 BZ3015, Front, $119.31 ea '70-74 BZ3016, Rear, $119.31 ea" Not sure I'm willing to pay $400+ but the $200 range isn't too bad for all four corners. Question is - is it worth $50 a corner to go with the adjustable ones? Hell, I'll spend more than that on tires or wheels easily. Appreciate the tips guys, keep 'em coming. I'll probably order tomorrow. Still have to get the rear spindle pins and need a passenger side control arm for the rear too if I can find one - MSA wants $120, VB $140. Will work on coilovers and brakes in the meantime if it gets just a little warmer [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited December 25, 2000).]

I spotted shox.com and asked for a quote - we'll see. Actually the prices Mike quoted are about what I'm seeing in a couple of places. All in all not too bad but if Shox can do better than I'm all for it! I did find a place that seems to sell bushings pretty cheap http://www.suspension.com/nissancars.htm I had bought a pile of urethane from MSA awhile back on sale and done some of them but now I can't find the rest! Argh! These suckers are hard as rock too so I'm not sure if they've got any compliance at all. That site sells Energy bushings so I've gone ahead and ordered a full set. Some I won't need but the savings of the set was worth it and less hassle. Watch, the other ones will show up right about the time these arrive on my door step (sigh). I may have some bushings for sale later on FWIW - Mike's right about the cost difference of Tokica over the base KYBs like I've got now. I don't know how many miles are on mine but the one I pulled is TOAST in a big way. If I can get the 5 ways for $120 I might just do it and hope I don't have to replace them for a good long time!

Okay, I didn't think I was crazy but before I spent still more cash I wanted to be sure. Car rode fine so I dunno' what happened! Adjustable sounds nice for being able to soften them up for the strip and then firmer later on. Cost is what will rule this decision on that I think. $65 each is no biggie, $200 each, now THAT would be a biggie Wanna' bet the other side is blown when I yank it too? Hrm, okay where are you finding your prices? Illuminas are running about $150, the regulars about $80 or so from VBA and MSA. Is there someplace substantially better? Kripes, it's just shocks There are also two lower brands of Tokicas - one low pressure it looks like. 5 wyas may be just too much if I've got to do all four and while I'm at it I might as well... [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited December 24, 2000).]

Finally got the rear strut out - darned brake lines. For grins before I start on the coil overs and rear brake conversion I decided to take a peek at the strut. Cool, it's a KYB although it's silver and I thought KYBs were white? So, I press down on the shaft to see how much pressure it takes..... it sinks right to the bottom and refuses to rise on it's own! Now, I realize these are "dampers" and not supposed to support the car but isn't this a bit umm "wrong"? I'll grant that I don't know much about this type fo suspension but it seems to me every shock or strut I've ever seen that's been marked "high pressure" popped up on it's own at least! Is it hammered" If it is is there any in particular I should consider? Another KYB? Koni? I don't want to spend millions but kripes it's all apart now so this is the time for it! TIA!