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proxlamus©
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Posts posted by proxlamus©
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update bobby, update!
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I gotta roof too! already cut!
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SIICCKK
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I've been dreaming of this color for my Z. I'm doing it
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Ivan, looks like I need to register to view the thread.. tell me more!
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I'm sure that was Daniel, his ride is flawless!!!
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This sounds crazy...
but I was looking into a 2JZ thinking the total cost of the build would be cheaper then a RB26 swap, but after sitting down and adding up misc. parts, the swaps are almost the same price!! Literally within just a few hundred dollars!! Crazy!
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JDM - ''SPEED'' SEAT / FIXED BUCKET TYPE
Id love to know where those seats came from though in that first picture you posted!!
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I would NOT recommend soda blasting at home, just FYI. You will need a BIG BIG compressor.
I called around here in Colorado (blast tech) they want about $800 to strip a chassis.
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Yeh I'm keeping the prices on the higher end, for new components just to get an idea.. I can source down parts for fairly cheap with lots of searching.
Jeesh, I can see why people end up spending close to 10k on a good motor swap, whether its a LSx, xJZGTE, RB2xDET(t)
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Already.. just did some homework.. now the price breakdown.. does this sound about right?!
$2,500 front sump Aristo 2JZGTE
$400 rear sump oil pan + gaskets
$350 1JZ bell housing to run the R154 5-speed
$575 ACT clutch kit for 7MGTE/R154
$350 1JZ Flywheel
$500 R154 transmission
$500 Megasquirt (MSII 3.57 and harness)
$350 engine cradle from Beta Motorsports
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$5,525 not including upgrading the fuel injectors, possible single turbo upgrade with manifold, intake plenum, NO intercooler and piping, fuel pump, hoses, Drive Shaft... etc etc.
Does that sound about right?!
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Love this thread!
Lots of good info and pictures for those of us who are big visual guys
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Thread brought back from the dead!
Question - SCCA GCR Section 9.4 mentions that roll cage are available in 2 primary designs...
Low Hoop (top of steering wheel)
High Hoop (top of windshield)
Obviously from what I concluded years ago in the posts above, a half cage would suffice for any street use. However, would it be safe to say, that if I ran a main hoop and a low hoop under the windshield.. could this be considered a "roll cage" rather then a "roll bar"?
Running the Main Hoop, 2 rear braces, a diagonal brace, door bars and low hoop seem to me like a complete "low hoop" roll cage! If this is true, why don't more people do this option? (other then the obvious, more frontal driver protection on a roll over)
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ha.. fun bump.
look how HUGE ken block has become since this posting
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thank you sir
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I have spent several hours searching, unfortunately I have found lots of old threads with out dated links and pictures and several contradicting posts.
I have some questions.
There are threads that indicate the 2JZGTE with factory 6-speed will fit in a Z, but requires trimming in the transmission tunnel, everyone says its massive and a tight fit. Other posts share its easy to fit into a S30 but the shifter location is too far back. Lets sum this up, will the 6-speed fit with a proper shifter location?!
If I choose a 1JZGTE or 2JZGTE, I can swap in either a W58 or R154 5-speed transmission.
I've read the following: The Supra R154 is easier to install then the Soarer R154. This is because the Soarer R154 shifter location is too far back in a S30 chassis, the Supra R154 has a good shifter placement. But in another thread, someone mentions the Soarer R154 has a better fit. Lets sum this up, which R154 transmission will fit in the Z without the use of a shifter extension for a proper shift location?!
The R154 will require the following:
- 1jz bell housing to mate to the r154
- 1jz OR 7MGTE clutch/pressure plate/flywheel
- 2jz pilot bearing
- 2jz throw out bearing
Let's sum this up, is the list above correct?
The W58 transmission is an option, but I've come across numerous threads supporting that the W58 will not handle the power of a 1JZ/2JZ, especially if it's been modified. I won't bother asking any questions about this.
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wow. beautiful beautiful build!
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im just worried about the additional length creating a lever arm and applying too much pressure in the shifting mechanisms. Even resting your hand on the shifter during cruise can wear down the synchros!
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Welp.. I'm trying to figure out how to set up a tall shift lever for quicker shifting and less time with my hand off the steering wheel..
observe the following pictures :
is something like this achievable with the factory datsun transmission or Z32 transmission since we don't use any cable linkage?!
I'm aware if I invest in a sequential transmission this is something that is fairly easy to accomplish.. but how about for us everyday folk without a crazy transmission setup?
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Jegs offers those exact roll bar kits..
do a quick search on this forum for Jegs roll bar or roll cage and you'll see some detailed posts and pictures!
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I tried a quick search without much results..
I'm looking for a vendor or manufacture that offers fiberglass front fenders for the 240z/280z and rear quarter panels. In the event of a door to door racing and damage, I would like a quick change option for the body panels and be able to use dsuz fasteners in the quarter panels. I was able to find wide body and imsa fenders, but I am looking for OEM style.
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If anyone has a 2 groove 280z pulley available.. I need one!!
im hijacking this thread lol.
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I have the Canon T2i.. LOVE it. I was pissed when the T3i came out days later.
the 50mm 1.8 f/stop lens Sparky is talking about is about $119 now at Mikes Camera here in town.
Also Bobby, with your kids, the video that comes out of the T3i is outstanding. 1080p video?! hell yeh!
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hmm.. mods/admin ... any chance of cleaning up this 23 page thread to shorten things down for new readers?!
Aftermarket Hydraulic P90A Cams
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Im not entirely sure why you are trying to avoid a head gasket change. Pretty easy to be honest. Also when you change out the camshaft, Schneider recommends changing the valve springs as well, to the Heavy Duty Valve springs. This is a bit of a pain to be honest. Basically you keep the cylinder head on the block, rotate the crank by hand with a 26mm wrench and use a valve spring compressor. The valves will hit the top of the piston and will allow you to remove those stupid valve spring retainers with a magnetic tool.
Changing the head gasket is easy though, especially if you have a metal head gasket. Speaking of, I have one for sale if you need one.
I'm also not sure why removing the cam towers would require lifting the cylinder head? Lifting the bolts out sure, but you don't need to change the head gasket.. as far as I'm aware.