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jpdavis

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About jpdavis

  • Birthday 09/02/1949

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  1. I got to thinking about old times while undoing all the stuff necessary to drop the engine out of my '97 Z28. This is a carb and choke question. In my dune buggy I had to have the choke closed nearly halfway for the engine to run right. 2074cc with a Zenith 2bbl, a decent combo for back then. The carb iced up frequently and I just dealt with it. 10 years later I put an Edelbrock 600 on an AMC 360 and I had the same problem with my CJ7. The choke needed to be partially closed for the engine to run decent. I am not a carb person and just took the easy way out but what was going on there? I can understand the ice due to venturi velocity with the VW but what was going on with restricting airflow with these engines? Thanks, Jim.
  2. Grumpyvette, take a look at DB Electrical on the web. Search for Corvette. Also, there are several good write ups on alternator upgrades on V8RX7 forum.
  3. First, thanks grumppyvette for taking on some rather specific questions. Here's mine: I dropped my full exhaust this last time at the strip and put on 2 1/4 x 18 header extentions on my shorty headers and picked up a full second. I need a different exhaust and I would like to have it designed so it would have the same, or nearly the same power as open headers. Here's the motor: 355 1996 pickup block (Chevrolet) XR276HR cam with springs and full roller lifters AFR 180 street port heads Weiand stealth manifold with a 770 Holley street avenger. 1 1/2 Heddman shorties (Jeep conversion headers). The chassis: 1986 RX7 4.10 gears 700R4, no stall. I've read and read about primary sizes, tube diameters, etc., and I would like a plain english answer from experience on what would be the best set up. Thanks, Jim.
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