godzeerah

Anyone have a passenger side tail light trim without the light that they are willing to sell and ship to me? 78 280z. Im in Idaho. Thanks!

Ok, I found them at datsunspirit thank god! Hard to track down those things. At least standard size is. They wanted quite a bit of money for em, but thats the price you pay for a hard to find item I guess.

No you cant. Not standard size. Ebay shows them but when you buy them you are refunded because they dont have them. Tried it already.

If nobody has any can anyone point me in a direction to find them as they are impossible to find as far as I can tell so far.

I am looking for a standard size btw.

Like the title says, I need a piston out of a 81 to 83 280zx non turbo. This is the flat top piston. I only need one and I don't care if it is attached to a rod or not. Let me know what you have!

Lowrider....can I see a picture of your external setup? Did you weld it to the exhaust manifold?

It doesnt now, I cut the gasket out. I think it really is the size of the wastegate hole here... My goal is around 18psi...but to do that I will need injectors. Im going on the z31 turbo injectors at the moment.

I want to avoid an external setup if I can. I made a 1/2 inch hole between the scroll ports, and bored the wastegate hole a little bigger....No difference. So, I will try and bore it more, but I really just dont think the hole can be made big enough. I also have a bit higher compression, 9:1, so maybe thats contributing to that. Seems to climb to about 14 or 15psi now and stop. I guess thats an improvement. Thanks for the input guys, Im going to bore that hole a bit bigger if I can and see what that does.

Thats raises a great point Leon. However it is the stock downpipe flange that was on the turbo and the stock internal gate flapper. Yes the flap does open, however I did remove the dp flange and saw that the gasket was warped a little. For some reason they made the gasket the entire surface of the flange instead of just the outside. Im gunna try drilling out my hole, drilling a 1/2" hole to the other scroll side and cutting out that section of the gasket to allow the gate to open more. Im out of ideas if that doesnt fix it.

So I turboed my Z and added an HX35W to the mix. I changed the actuator to the internal gate for a 5psi spring that I will later control with a boost pressure controller. Heres the deal.....the internal gate doesn't seem to do anything at all with my boost pressures. I can apply 5psi of compressed air and the flap opens with the actuator, but when I get it on the road, it just climbs like there is no wastegate at all. Its not creep, as I have heard that this internal wastegate will creep a little, because it doesn't even attempt to regulate the pressure. As in it won't even slow down at all. Just 0-12 in a blink of an eye, then I back off. The turbo is a twin scroll, and I am using the stock single scroll manifold. Looking at the wastegate hole in the turbo it seems like the hole only effects one side of the scroll.....anyone think this has anything to do with it? I have searched and found nothing so far....

Yeah thats exactly what happened.

I verified with a degree wheel....I think I might have found the issue though.... Aside from total advance, I was on the track today and noticed I was getting a misfire in lower and lower RPMS. I looked at everything spark related and found number 6 spark plug just sitting on the plug not snapped in....hmmmm.... I snapped it back in and needless to say I need back on that dyno. It's been running with 1 intermittent cylinder which would explain why it was starting to misfire at around 5800. There was too much resistance at that high of an RPM because the plug wire wasn't snapped in....strange, I don't remember not putting on a spark plug wire right... I figure after advancing the total timing on the dyno as much as I can, if I want more power.....well....there are options...

Here are some pictures of my cam card and the dyno run...the cam is custom. Sorry about the card being dirty, I spilled coffee on it and cussed like you wouldn't believe. The lift is 432ish at 1.5 to 1 rocker ratio and duration is at 264*. As far as the distributor...I have a CAS style distributor from a 280zx turbo with a 300zx wheel in it. Like I said I can control my timing to anything I want through my emulator at the EEPROM. And yes I have flattops

That sounds pretty bad a$$ then. Sounds like the mikunis would be a great setup then, because those suckers flow great anyway, I couldn't imagine what they'll do over atmospheric pressures. I wouldn't worry too much about the camshaft. The overlap will bleed some boost, but it should lower your egt's in the process. You might lose some low end, but I think you'll like it.

Full caps are best for the money, just install it right and get a sun visor in hot climates and it will last forever.

hey, if you really still care about this or you've figured it out.... I use a r200 with a "phantom grip" lsd...runs about 300 bucks. Works like a charm, and with a 40 to 60 transfer it grips really nicely.

The copper spray is fantastic on any head gasket. It's not a matter of "sealing" the gasket. The copper's specific heat is lower than carbon steel, so most of your heat from the head will be transfered AROUND the gasket and not through it, making your gasket's heat capacity much higher....spray the crap out of it is what I say.

I'm not 100 percent on this, but I think you lose a lot of efficiency boosting carbs. Not saying it isn't possible, but the boost curve is usually a pain to get right with the af/r's. If I were you I would just go as rich as I could throughout the band and advance my timing to as close to detonation as safely as possible. I would look for a super charger..... just sayin'. These are just my pennies, and I might be wrong....anyone? That's also a lot of overlap...I agree with the bit of lag you will experience. Just keep them revs HIGH!

OK, so I checked my timing...I'm at 22 degrees at 4500, 25 degrees at 5000, and 27 degrees at 5500. Anything above that stays at 27 degrees...

So, 12.9 is lean...ok i'll check it out. I'll see if I can advance my total timing and just dump fuel in on hard acceleration. It could be needing more advancement to get it through the sputtering at 6k. Let me see if I can't get a pic of the dyno sheet put up here. Also, I know total timing will affect exhaust temps, which I'm also considerably high at WOT I think at 650-700 degrees Celsius. So maybe my total advance is ok, just needs more fuel...I'll go look today and see what the number actually is. Yes, my high torque number was 152, but the band was flat from 3k to 6k untill it started sputtering.... Thanks for all the input!

I'll have to check my timing map to make sure what I am at with total timing. Base timing is set at 18BTDC to smooth out the cam idle. I know the top end isn't too advanced to get detonation. As far as AF/R's, my brand new AEM wideband says I'm at 12.9:1 during hard acceleration, but the dyno says 13.8:1. I think mine is right because I backfire during decel pretty loudly sometimes, which usually means the mixture is so rich it is continuing to burn in the exhaust. \ I forgot to mention that she has developed a miss fire above 6K. I usually rev to a bit below 7K, but ever since the dyno I haven't been able to get that high....this concerns me because the dyno seemed to have put excessive load on the motor. No, I did not do any tuning on the dyno. The dyno I used was at my tech school I'm currently in, and I didn't have the time to actually tune it on the dyno. All my tuning was done in seat on a bare country road....and no I didn't speed