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About Badler

  • Rank
    Moving Up
  • Birthday 07/20/1986

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Carson City, NV
  • Interests
    Pouring money into restoring my 1970 Z

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  1. Hey, just wanted to thank you for the write up. I am having the exact same issue with my Hi-6 so I'm hoping that getting a new optical trigger will fix the problem.
  2. Just for comparison, an apparently untouched (can still see casting marks all the way on the inside) Miki manifold.
  3. How large are the head side ports now? They look like they have been REALLY hogged out!
  4. Here are my nice little Rebello/JE forged turbo stroker P90 88mm pistons. The quench pads line up perfectly. According to Dave, he didn't do anything after they came from JE. I guess that if you had the design, JE would work with you on it. To give credit where credit is due, when I showed this to Jeff P, he showed me the piston design that he came up with and gave to Rebello that lead to this after some revisions. We stand on the shoulders of giants
  5. I know this is an old post, but are those OER ITBs still available?
  6. I put in a new turbo that sits totally different than my old one, and my old 2.5" doe pipe won't connect, so perfect time to upgrade right? I would just be cutting in up, then trying to flare, join and re weld to bridge the gap I have at the moment (and that tial flange has got to go!) if you still have it, I'll give you $30 shipped. PM me for the PayPal address!
  7. This came to mind. P.S. I really love this thread. If I manage to be "successful" before I have "children" I will go for it
  8. And for what it may or may not be worth, the Pistons do have nice deep valve recesses.
  9. I'm considering buying those valves from VitaminZ for use in my Rebello 3.1 stroker turbo. Dave has my head right now for porting, but it is waiting in line as it were. The head is a P90, running the Isky turbo cam, the pistons are rebello P90 special forged 88mm JE with a static compression ratio of 8.5/1. The springs and retainers are the upgraded ones sold by MSA. Looking to get a good 400hp to the rear wheels. In the opinion of those who have gone before, will these valves help my flow, or just complicate reaching my goal? Thanks!
  10. Hmm, these seem to be the same diameter as Kameari valves, the length is odd, between their two bigger sizes. Rebello has my P90 head for a 3.1 turbo stroker build, P90 head. Would these valves be too long to seat properly with this head and/or use with my Isky turbo cam? If not, I might be interested.
  11. If you want more capacity Arizona Z Car sells a nice pan it increases it by about a quart. It also has baffles and cooling fins pricey, but very nice
  12. Wanna get more flow? Putting a .82 A/R on your GT3076R? Well in that case I want your old smaller turbine housing! V-Band or 4 Bolt, doesn't matter to me. Just has to be GENUINE Garret, no off-brand eBay crap (which is only $99 anyway) I have a GT30 with no housing, so if you have a housing, I want it! ASAP Thank You!
  13. So, it looks like the HKS Type 2 doesn't open on the front like the Type 1 I have? So I suppose it would attach to the carbs or ITBs with threads on the tank? (that does seem far easier than bolting it on with 25 bolts) How about internally, are they the same? Does the one you sold have the carb float pressuring holes welded up? (guessing that grrtec isn't planning some tripple mikuni phh folly like me) Furthermore, that SK tank looks wild, can someone enlighten us on just how it works? That might be just the thing for when I finally give up on blow-thru carbs...
  14. Oh and for the record, a 0.25" spacer was needed to clear the Arizona Z Car 4 lug 4 piston brakes. Also have the NISMO studs in the rear and some Napa ones up front (could have used stock length in front, but wanted a few more threads). I hope that info might be useful to someone else. For the record Dave at AZC thought they would clear without. He was almost right.
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