MetalThrashingMad

I initially planned to sell the motor and drop some sort of clunky 8 cylinder pushrod engine in the car, but recently I've had a change of heart. I'd like to rebuild the motor to similar to factory specs and do a good amount of driving with the car. Might have something to do with the cost of a swap vs original equipment... haha. maybe in the distant future. Cleaned em, and replaced the fuel filter. Damn, this overgrown go-kart really flies! Thanks for the suggestion!! I was thinking the other evening that it was a fuel problem... flow restricted, runs lean and idles higher, makes the problem worse and dries up what fuel it has. Thanks to everyone for the replies

Bummer! The new coil did not help

I have a stock 71' that will start fine, idle fine for a while, and if it gets revved up it will idle very high and if it gets driven, the engine dies out after a while but will eventually start back up The guy I bought it from had the wiring all messed up, seems like the only thing electrically that works is the ignition. Whole dash is inoperable at this point. Could the engine be overheating? Bad ignition coil? I changed plugs/wires/cap/magneto hoping it would help, but it didn't. I can't tell if it's electrical or fuel... I really don't know. Thanks to anyone that can help.

Thanks for the replies

I know this is probably a stupid question, but I need timing chain cover/head/valve cover gaskets, thermostat and an ignition coil, but none of my local parts stores have this kind of stuff. I found racepages.com which seems ok for this type of stuff, but where do the people here get their basic parts? I'm not restoring my 240 with factory parts so expensive oem stuff is not necessary.

I actually mustered up some ambition and went out and troubleshot/fixed it today. 1) There is a pin with a C clip on the and and that pin was worn out, loose and too big for the hole. I got a bolt and some lock washers, double nutted it and tightened it to ♥♥♥♥. It's great now, hopefully it doesn't wear out or loosen up. It's all metal to metal and rather tight so I'm a little wary of it. This accounted for about 90% of the play I had. 2 and 3) There's 2 tapered rubber bushings in there that were worn out. I put a particular size rubber washer on the top bushing and tightened it up. Perfect. Conclusion: Washers fix everything

Nobody else?

OK, here's a picture of the linkage. I hope it's clear enough?

Woohoo! I don't have to dismantle half the car? This makes me very happy sir The car is under 2 feet of snow under a tarp in the yard, I'll see if I can get in there tomorrow. Haha. Big thanks for all your help man.

I recently bought a 71' Z and I have a question about the shift linkage (manual) I can shift into any gear, but the shift lever wiggles freely and feels like it's in neutral all the time. What should I pay mind to when I pull the motor/tranny? I've rebuilt automatic transmissions but I've never had a manual apart, so any details would be very helpful

The one I typically use at work is 4'x8'x1" carbon steel plate with legs made of 4" sched 80 pipe, and what a wonderful bench to work on. Shame you couldn't get that one home, I'd kill to have a bench like that in my garage.

Sorry if this particular topic has been discussed already, but how should I go about replacing odd shaped panels such as inner fender wells? Replacing floor pans and doing general bondo work I can do, but something round like the fender wells have me scratching my head. I just got my first Z, a '72 and she needs some new panels and some frame repair. Turns out it had a little more cancer than I anticipated. I plan on stripping the car right down to the frame and floor panels and starting from there. I also have a lot of experience in fabrication and I am a certified welder for stick and tig. Thanks for any suggestions