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About chipndip829

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  1. Hey everyone, My names Chris, I acquired a 1976 280z just over a year ago. The motor was in tired shape, it had a cam on it but all the valves were bent. I swapped the head for a stock cam and wired up a megasquirt system. It ran alright but it never made tons of power. I saw that a few people were putting RB's into z's and thought that would be a cool swap. Keeps it in the family. After building a whole new l28 to have the head gasket go, it was the final straw. I would start in swapping the RB despite the cost and time. I've created this thread to document progress. Here she is when
  2. It definitely can but I'm doing all in my power to keep that from happening. Forged internals, mls hg, arp studs etc... Yeah the hoke system is a lightweight pulley with a laser cut 36-1 disc attached, bit more reliable than glued magnets. It solved all the issues with trying to use the dizzy, which I admit was a stupid idea from the start. I'm liking the tuning options presented to me with any of the offered plug and play ecu's for the RB. Boost per gear, dual knock sensors, sequential fueling. This was a long time coming, just the failed head gasket was the nail in the coffin, also the
  3. I ended up ditching the whole system as it was really not worth it. I bought a crank trigger kit from hoke performance(worked amazing) and bought the quad spark so that I could control an edis 6 coil pack. The setup worked really great but my engine blew a head gasket. I'm in the process of tearing the whole system out and selling it as a whole. RB25det here I come!
  4. A little update on the build. Megasquirt wiring was cleaned up quite a bit, I have working relays and fuse panels now, Yay for not burning up wires. Once it's running I'll go back and cut to length and make it look factory. I went to a buddys shop and he was able to weld my distributor up. So now I have fixed timing using only one of the coils. I purchased the GM HEI 7 pin and did the mod per diyautotune on the ms2 3.57. I'm getting in the final stretches of the project. Here's to hoping that it all runs when it's back together.
  5. I did end up dissembling the distributor but it looks like the plate with two holes that goes on the two magnets seems like it always stays with the top half. I can't see a way to weld itto the magnets. I'm still N/A at this point so COP doesnt have much benefit as just a simple advance table. I'm looking for a reliable EFI system. I'm surprisingly not doing that bad on the build. The figures are right where I expected them. The good news is that I finally got the megasquirt in the car. I chose to mount it in the passenger side. I took suggestions and grounded everything to the engine
  6. Diyautotune has resolved the issue. The harness was supposed to have these pins. Great company if you are looking to megasquirt your Z. That being said I am back in track on my build. I tried to lockout the dizzy. I used thin metal wire. I'll see how it holds up. I would have welded it but I couldn't find a place to get the tip into.
  7. I finally got my order in from diyautotune. A few mishaps but hoping they get back to me quick. It looks like the 10' harness that I ordered is missing the pins for the fuel pump relay and the ignition out. These pins are 37 and 36 respectively. I need 36 to trigger the coil right? I couldn't believe that they were not part of the harness!? Did I get a bad one?
  8. What is keeping me from wanting to go to full ignition control is buying a 83 turbo dizzy. Prices seem like they are rediculous for just a distributor and then I need to find the base. Does the notch match the '76 dizzy? I did pickup one of the v3.57 boards so it should have the bip373 chip in it? I haven't recieved it yet do I can't check. Edit: DIYAUTOTUNE states 5 volt ignition output (JS10 jumpered directly to pin 36) for EDIS, Bosch 124, or GM HEI ignition control Slot for installing a BIP373 (not included) for direct coil control So unfortunately it looks like I would n
  9. Ah. Too late to go back to stock now. I just ordered all the parts! I'm just going to state that I have no clue how distributors work. I've built subaru motors but coil on plug is so easy. I'm really trying though. It seems as though there are many ways. I think I have three options 1. From what I learned, the '76 dual pickup coil has two Variable Reluctors (VR) that are wired to the transistor ignition. (ignition module?) Seeing as I would be wiring only one of the two pickups. I would be looking at needing a new ignition module to just run the single? This drives the t
  10. I know that the dead coolant sensor will make the car run super rich. I tried unplugging the CSV but it sill floods. To my undertanding that is where the extra fuel comes from for the cold start. Does it increase the pulse for all of the other 6 injectors? The harness has no factory colors anymore. It looks as through the whole harness was redone. All the wires are white! So there is a possibility of using the stock '76 distributor with only one pickup? I know the coils are R/G or B/G. Is this part of the GM HEI I keep seeing?
  11. Hello all. So I recently picked up a new 1976 280Z Non CA. It has a few mods to it. Stage III schneider cam, headers, monza exhaust. Something failed on the EFI and the previous owner cracked open the AFM and tweaked a bit. This is causing the engine to run extremely rich. The coolant temp sensor is dead also. I've decided after seeing many split wires and splicing that it would be best to start new with Megasquirt. I plan on purchasing the MS2 3.57 assembled unit and wiring harness. I know this question strays from the normal. I know the option of going to a 82-83 dizzy. As of right no
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