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Showing results for tags 'Wiring'.
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Well, I figured it would happen eventually. I'm trying to figure out the wiring before I get the engine in the car so the swap goes as quickly as possible. I've gone over the sticky as well as the more extensive and hidden version of the same thing. Harness is from an 82/83 280ZXT and going into a '76 280Z The diagrams and pictures I've seen have two plugs near the rubber firewall grommet, one for ignition (8 wire plug) and one for the fuel pump/fuel pump relay (6 wire plug). However, my harness has two 8 wire plugs, and the wires and colors do not match those of the diagrams I've seen. It doesn't even match the '83 FSM diagram. The person I bought the harness from labeled a couple wires in what seems to be the fuel pump and fuel pump relay plug harness, but I can't verify them obviously since the plugs and wire colors don't match what I've seen. Diagram that has been referenced: I'm also confused on the two wires that feed power to the EFI relay. They were connected to fusible links, but the sticky says stick them on the POS terminal of the starter. Shouldn't they be fed power after fuses? I'd assume I can hook them up to my fuses that are currently in the car (I did the maxifuse swap) but I'm not sure... Also, I'm unsure about where to wire the power wires that are in the EFI relay loom. 1 constant 12v and 2 switched 12v. If anyone has done this swap and would like to guide me on where would be a good spot to do this please let me know. Maybe I'm just thinking about this too much but I keep second guessing myself and running into weird issues like the plugs and wire colors not matching. Pictures attached show the plugs in question.
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Hello everybody I am currently swapping a 5.3 with a t56 into my ‘78 280z. This is my first engine swap I’ve ever done which means I’m learning as I go. I will be running a Holley terminator computer but I am now wondering how much of the old harness I can take out of the car. I plan on running speed hut gauges later down the line but my main focus is making sure my headlights, turn signals, and brake lights are working properly. I still want everything to work with the steering column but if there’s anything I’m missing please let me know.
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Hello! I did an rb25det swap for a 1979 280zx, though I'm having issues figuring out the wiring for the alternator; with the original alt' wires disconnected, you can't shut the fuel pump off/dash lights stay on until you disconnect the battery, I've tried splicing the L wires into the Rb's harness but it still has the same issue. Anyone who's done an engine swap found the solution to this?
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F/S -Brand New -EZ-wiring 21 circuit universal wiring harness. $160 shipped in a flat rate box PM for paypal address https://www.ezwiring.com/shop?Collection=Wiring+Kits+%26+Switches
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Alrighty, Ive got a stock 1978 280z and I'm currently installing an MSD 6A and Blaster 2 coil into the car. After reading any and all forum posts on the topic I came to the conclusion that I would need an MSD Tach Adapter 8920 in order for the MSD box to Communicate to the EFI by upping it to 12v. All my wires are in place and I'm getting a good strong spark. I put a voltmeter on the purple wire coming out of the MSD tach adapter and I'm getting 12v. Only problem is that I'm getting no fuel. It must not be communicating with the EFI somehow. Here's my Setup. MSD 6A: Heavy Red goes to battery + Heavy Black is going to battery - Red is going to Black wire with white strip (Ignition Key Wire) Orange is connected to blaster 2 coil + Black is connected to blaster 2 coil - White is not being used, I do not have a points system Violet and Green are connected to the Magnetic Pickups (I was told it didn't matter which way, I put green to green and violet to red) MSD Tach Adapter 8920: White goes to Tach Output on MSD 6a box Black is ground wire Red is connected to Black wire with white stripe (so two reds and black with white stripe all connected) Violet is connected to the blueish green wire that was connected to the coil negative terminal. Summary: I don't know what the **** I did wrong. Someone please tell me.
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Hello i have a sbc in my z. My wires fried (literally) so I am in the process of re wiring using the painless 21 circuit. I pulled out all of the original burned harnesses and starting from scratch. Im sure I got some wires crossed but my main concern is relays and the voltage regulator. 1) Do I need to add any relays or is it just an extra precaution. If I do where would I place them in the wiring. 2) do I need to wire up the voltage regulator ( by the driver side kick mat). If so, what wires do I use 3) for the rear brakes where does the third brake light wire go. All other connections seems connected
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🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to work on adding sound insulation later. Everyone keeps telling me to keep the stock L28 so I plan on just adding a 280ZX Turbo later on. ive read a lot of information here and had some help on Facebook as well. My car knowledge is limited so I’ll be searching the forums for a complete parts listing to turbo her and information on interior parts and installation! Please dont tell me about the fender mirror placement, I’ve heard it enlighten already. I took it to a body work specialist and he said I’d be better off wrapping the car after getting it Epoxied. Does anyone know around what price range I can expect for and epoxy and wrap? And can I just leave it epoxied until I’m ready for wrapping?
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🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to work on adding sound insulation later. Everyone keeps telling me to keep the stock L28 so I plan on just adding a 280ZX Turbo later on. ive read a lot of information here and had some help on Facebook as well. My car knowledge is limited so I’ll be searching the forums for a complete parts listing to turbo her and information on interior parts and installation! Please dont tell me about the fender mirror placement, I’ve heard it enlighten already. I took it to a body work specialist and he said I’d be better off wrapping the car after getting it Epoxied. Does anyone know around what price range I can expect for and epoxy and wrap? And can I just leave it epoxied until I’m ready for wrapping?
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🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to work on adding sound insulation later. Everyone keeps telling me to keep the stock L28 so I plan on just adding a 280ZX Turbo later on. ive read a lot of information here and had some help on Facebook as well. My car knowledge is limited so I’ll be searching the forums for a complete parts listing to turbo her and information on interior parts and installation! Please dont tell me about the fender mirror placement, I’ve heard it enlighten already. I took it to a body work specialist and he said I’d be better off wrapping the car after getting it Epoxied. Does anyone know around what price range I can expect for and epoxy and wrap? And can I just leave it epoxied until I’m ready for wrapping?
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I have been reading a ton on this site and am ready to post wiring directions on the combo switch for those of you using an EZ Wiring harness. There may be some differences between what model combo switch you have; the one I am working with is off of a 260z and has a 9 pin wiper connector. Some of you may disagree with my wire labeling; well you are wrong; I got it from a guy who restores the combo switches and has done so for over 2 decades. I am going to trust his info and my success with wiring. You will notice a few changes in my chart than in previous posts by other members. Again, I know mine works and has not been altered in any way from the original Datsun wire colors and functions. Let me know if you have any questions. I am running a full LED lighting system around the car. 260z Combo Switch to EZ Wiring Harness.pdf
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I've been putting in alot of time in the garage trying to tuck and shave my bay along with installing megasquirt. My only question about the whole thing is, how am I to ground the million black wires? I've read NOT to ground them all in the same spot. I've also read NOT to solder them into a bigger wire and put it in a single location. But I HAVE heard that I should ground everything to my block. I'm currently wiring the injectors. Where do I ground this bundle of 6 black wires? Tha k you very much for your response. Sorry if this is in the wrong place or already posted. Still trying to figure out forums.
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i am swapping a vg into a 1991 nissan stanza, the harness im using is from a 1994 maxima, this image is from the 94 maxima FSM i need to know what these two plugs actually do and where the wires in them go. the plugs between the stanza body harness and the maxima engine harness are different (stanza body harness is a 4 pin, maxima engine harness is a 6 with 2 pins jumped for some reason) i have the stanza engine harness which i plan to steal the 4 pin plug from and mate that to the maxima engine harness to connect the two together. i have managed to find some wiring diagrams (both appear to be engine harness/ECU pinout diagrams) that may or may not be of any use from the google machine. i am not sure what the plug might be labeled in them and i dont know if the plug has a traditional name that im missing, while im pretty familiar with wiring diagrams im having trouble finding the plug here (if its even accounted for) i know the plugs contain a power connection that i definitely need to complete in order for the ECU and the distributor, tps, etc. to get power. if i cant get any information while i wait ill probably just complete the power connection and see what else isnt working while i go through the car. of course my multimeter has to crap out on me a week before i get into this harness work so ill be buying a new one of those but in the mean time i thought i would seek out the help of some experts. here is a link to my build thread to maybe lend some insight into what im trying to accomplish: https://maxima.org/forums/3rd-generation-maxima-1989-1994/695655-turbo-vg-swapped-stanza.html
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I have recently rebuilt the VG30E that is in my 1985 300zx, NA and automatic. It was a stock rebuild with a rebuild kit except for the cams, which were replaced by a Wolf Technologies AZ314-000S1. Because of the new cams I also opted for a 1987 ECCS with JECS#: A18-679 M83 with nistune installed. The engine has been assembled for a couple weeks now and it's still having problems. It will fire and it seems like the timing isn't set right. We have gotten it to run long enough to hopefully break in the cams, but it has rpm fluctuations under throttle and wont idle. The current thinking is that there is a problem between the new ECCS and the 1985 wiring harness but we have tried changing some pins that we thought were incorrect, like the injector wiring into the ECCS, and it performed worse after. We are back where we started. There is also a possible problem with stock map installed with the nistune software and whether or not that is affecting it. We are using the stock bin file for a 1988 NA automatic and don't know if that could be causing a issue Any help or advice would be much appreciated. If there's anything else that would help find a solution, please ask and I'd be happy to answer.
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Hello everyone, I'm having some issues with getting my 1971 240z started. I've changed fluids, cleaned spark plugs, and got a new battery. I've had the starter and the alternator checked and they are both good. I have power going to the voltage regulator when the key is on but all I get is a clicking sound from a relay that is inside the cab on the passenger side. The fuse box has power but has been modified from stock by the previous owner. I have a video at :54 is the relay clicking. Any help is appreciated. I can also take more vids of dash and engine wiring.
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I have a 1972 240z, and the guy I bought it from got a viper security system and a beefy sound system wired in (very poorly might I add). I need to rewire a lot of the engine bay and the wiring diagrams available are not helping, a lot of wires are spliced and replaced that don't match up or are just taped off and lead nowhere. If anybody has a diagram of all the 10 pin connectors that are located underneath the passenger side of the dashboard it would help a lot, or if anybody has any self made diagrams that are at all related to engine bay wiring please post them, anything might help me out.
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I've been a member here for 13 years and have probably read every post (twice). Now I have a bunch of questions so I tried to wrap them all up into one big question with the use of a wiring diagram. Would someone with good wiring knowledge please look over my drawing and advise me if it’s OK as is or what needs to be changed. Thanks guys! 1977 Datsun 280Z Restomod 2005 L33 Chevy 5.3L V8 Motor Carb Manifold with MSD Ignition
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Would someone be so kind as to look for me and tell me which side the wiring comes out of for the steering wheel, left side of it or right side of it, that would be super helpful. I'm having trouble getting the reach I need and I think I installed incorrectly.
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Just got my LS6 up and running using MS3Pro and the DIYAutoTune drop on LSx 24 harness. From the harness, there is 1 wire that goes to the alternator to activate a low charging light. That's the only wire on the plug. The alternator I got reman from RockAuto (98-02 Camaro) was tested fine at AutoZone. The alternator will not charge. I have the hot lug run back to a fuse block where all the large gauge wires centralize from the battery. I tried running a wire from the 'sense' pin on the alternator back to the fuse block so the system has 'reference' voltage, but that didn't work either. The 4 pins on my alternator plug are 1) Phase, 2) Indicator lamp, 3) Ignition, and 4) Sense. The DIY harness was rigged to the Indicator lamp, and as stated, I tried running a Sense wire to my fuse block. I am currently researching, but not coming up with much. I am not quite sure what I'm missing here. Anybody have any ideas?
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Hi all I would like a quick run down of the wiring schematic or any kind of help to get this 1jz started outside of the car. Came with all wiring stock from factory as well as ECU. ECU has four plugs and is a jzx100 motor. Etcs What wires do I need to hook up to get this baby to run
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Hello i am new to this forum but i hope to get some opinions. I have fully restored my 260z and it is mostly stock, i recently bought and rebuilt a l28et. now that the engine is done i am moving to the wiring and i come to realise that i do not have the proper wiring harness. The guy i got the engine from gave me everything he had. by the looks of it i have a 82 l28 ecu and harness, a later 70's wiring harness slightly cut up, and the correct 82 l28et ecu. Should i bother with the stock ECCS and make a harness or should i buy a megasquirt. The megasquirt is tempting but im one to save a dollar. the megasquirt seems very complicated for my liking. if anyone has an 82 l28et harness i need it. My hope is to finish this swap before april. thankyou
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Hi everyone I'm currently doing a 81 l28et (all stock) swap into my 74 260z. My harness was missing the 6 pin ignition harness. I wired the correct yellow/white stripe wire (3) to my ignitor. Other prong on ignitor has its own switched 12v. The yellow wire (2) on the harness side has switched 12v. And finally the supposedly black ground wire (3) on my harness is cut and i can not for the life of me find the wire . If someone can tell me where this wire goes or what prong on the computer plug it connects to. Thank you 74 260z 73 240z
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Interior box has all the fuel injection relays & fuses in their own section. Then normal car body fuses. Then a panel with a 50 amp accessory relay, a ignition relay, horn relay & headlight relay. The ignition switch now only carries the load of the two relays. There is a forth section with 6 micro relays that is for expansion in the future.
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Hello all. So I recently picked up a new 1976 280Z Non CA. It has a few mods to it. Stage III schneider cam, headers, monza exhaust. Something failed on the EFI and the previous owner cracked open the AFM and tweaked a bit. This is causing the engine to run extremely rich. The coolant temp sensor is dead also. I've decided after seeing many split wires and splicing that it would be best to start new with Megasquirt. I plan on purchasing the MS2 3.57 assembled unit and wiring harness. I know this question strays from the normal. I know the option of going to a 82-83 dizzy. As of right now, I just plan on running MS2 for fuel only. I know there is a trigger input that comes into the ECU like the stock setup. Is this acceptable for the MS2 or can I not use this. My understanding is that the injectors fire on every third pulse. Looking through wiring diagrams I put together this diagram. The 1976 datsun looks like it uses a dual coil setup with a transistor ignition box. Can I still have the megasquirt hooked up with this setup or will it not like it? Any advice would be greatly beneficial.
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Ok, So I need some help with wiring. I am swaping a 1981 l28et into a 1976 280z I recently just found out that the wiring harness and ECU that I have is from an 1982; after checking the serial # on the computer and noticing that the wiring harness did not have a hook up for the dropping resistors. I have been having difficulty understanding the wiring diagrams for both the 1981/2 harness and the 1976 harness. I have been using the Bumble Z ( wiring torutrial as a reference but I am still confused. Most of what I have figured out is quite simple: the injectors, CAS, other sensors, but thats about it. Problems 1. The Coil and Ignitor This is my original coil. What can I remove from this harness what should I keep? This is my "new" coil I do not have the part of the harness that plugs into it but I have firgured out a way to make a plug for it I just need to know what goes to what. The pins on the ignitor are shaped like a T (a Black w/ whit wire and a Blue wire run to the ignitor from the coil) I cant figure what I should wire to this But I am pretty sure it has to do with the computers spark control. 2. Fuseable Links I have both fuseable links right now for the old engine and the "new" In this picture I have them mounted next to each other. I understand from the Bumble Z tutorial the only wires I need are the green a brown wire on the "new" harness. I am a little uneasy about removing or cutting any of the wires that lead to the existing fusable links. (Do I need this to run my lights or fuel pump?) 3. Ignition Harness This was pluged into what I belive is the ignition harness of the "new" ECU and the back end of this plug should somehow run to the ignitor/coil. In the bumble z tutorial he had a 6 prong plug, his one has 8. 4. Switched Power In the tutorial there are a lot of things that need to be run to switched power what should I use? I think I have firgured out that the black w/ white wire that runs to the coil should be switched power but im not really sure. I will really apreciate some input please dont tell me to search more, maybe at least point me in the right direction. I live in the Seattle area but my car is in lakewood (hour south of seattle). If there are any wiring gurus that can help me I would more than greatfull. Also I am a college student at Seattle University studying photography. i am willing to trade som automotive photography services for help with the wirring. Side Note: I am really losing morale I already have had one of the turbo engines I was working on stolen that I bought for $1000, wich is a lot of money to a college student. Thanks for all the help!!!
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Bought a 71 240. It's gone from the shins down. Rust bucket to the max. If I live long enough, i'll be riding in her. I had a 71 back in 74. I have done collision work for 35 years or so and I have a decent interim knowledge of component relations. This is the link to the video of the first start. https://youtu.be/Oqve26DR7i0 Here is the data. Tail lights work. Left front park light works. Left front marker works. Both rear markers work. No headlights. Wipers work. Glove box light works. Courtesy light on dash works. I have not checked bulbs. Power to six out of 8 fuse supplies. No power to headlight fuses. Right turn indicator burns dim when lights are on. (ground problem?) Indicator goes out when the park tail fuse is pulled out. This car is not a junk yard dog. It is the pile that the dog left by the fence. But, it is a poor man's dream and I love to see the contrast when the project gets to the finish line. Yeah! Thanks, Fletch
