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About gtikyle

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 04/15/1985

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  1. Looking for a RB25det transmission. Located near Seattle WA.
  2. A bit more work was done. Tore out the nasty carpet, lightly sanded some surface rust and coated the floors. Dealt with some rust. Had to make a new reinforcement for the lock mechanism Before burning in Had to slice open the lower quarter to see what the damage looked like You can see it's into the rocker as well. Surgery continues. My Rusty graveyard pile keeps adding up In a break from the all the rust repair fun I've been dealing with, I decided to get some parts in. Also picked up the heart, RB25DET NEO
  3. You two hit the nail on the head. Yes, this is the danger... the more i tear into it, the slippery it gets. But for me, rust is a time bomb. The longer you wait, the worse it gets. Trying to tie it off before it gets worse. On this "phase", my plan is to just deal with as much rust as i can, throw some sort of consistent paint over it and address all the other, more fun aspects. Once it's running and sorted out, then I'll likely move onto the "restoration phase", and blast it, rotisserie it, and get all OCD-like.
  4. The slippery slope, or, "while I'm in there". I think that accurately describes how i approach most projects. I begin with one intention, over think it, and something entirely different, overly complicated and overly priced is spit out the other end. Oh well, schedule and budget be damned, here we go. Not a lot of clean, rust-free (a lie if anyone ever claims this) S30's up in the PNW. Rust doesn't scare me. Complete rot does. I needed a solid base to start off on. I like finding complete, or near complete cars to base off of. Half torn apart cars with mismatched everything, half-bodged up jobs, and monkey wiring drive me nuts. I hate un-funking some others misguided efforts. I laugh while i type this, as you'll see from the body work I started to uncover when i brought this 1977 home. I went to check out this 2 owner local datsun. It's a complete car, down to working radio and an uncracked dash. I wouldn't say i was after a 100% original car, because i had plans to butcher it up to make it my own. I just liked seeing all the parts there for me to work with. The previous owner had it repainted this awful color. It didn't turn me away completely, i knew it would need to be painted to my liking, but it's the horrors underneath that began to rear up. Time to get cutting and welding. No metal to be found, and yes, that's just silicone and body filler holding the dogleg together. Making metal where none exists. The worst of the structural. And just minor surface rust, no major rot on the floors or in the frame (so far!) Ok so at this point in the story, time for some claims about where this is going. I document it now because i know i will deviate (already have) from the "plan". Initially i wanted to fix the rust, drive it and enjoy while I upgrade. Eventually swap something healthier in. Part of me really wants to tear it all down and blast it, but then we're looking at a whole different level of project than I initially wanted. That would take it down for long enough that i might lose the passion, and ultimately abandoned in a corner of a shop. I've seen so many craigslist projects that end up with that sad fate. Well, the rust repair is underway, and I'm already considering how much effort i want to put in to tackle the rust I can find, only to throw a half assed paint job over the top of it. I have to convince myself to work in phases. And since it's winter, it's unlikely i'll be driving it a whole lot anyways. A project keeps me busy, and out of trouble. More updates to follow.
  5. Probably not enough resistance in the LED bulbs. You could add a resistor, or, you could search for LED bulbs with built in resistors.
  6. Might be too late with my response, but you can use "weld thru" primer on the backside where you intend welding to burn it off. SEM makes some, so does eastwood. Looks good!
  7. Boom? What are you referring to? I hope the rear end, because a 2JZ is just getting started at those power levels...
  8. Wrong forum, and a violation of the forum policies...
  9. Or maybe he's referring to the fact he couldn't even spell "where"?
  10. Love this build, looks like you have a lot of passion into this ride. Keep the updates rolling.
  11. Excellent! I love the caliber of your work, you're really putting attention into the details. Keep it up, I'll be following this closely, and love the pics.
  12. Looks like a great start...Hows the interior, and are the framerails looking OK?
  13. It's very basic engineering... The torque the motor is producing is trying to drive the vehicle forward. There is resistance in several pieces of your drivetrain, including the clutch/flywheel, gearbox, rear end, and ultimately your tires are resisting the forward motion of movement your engine is trying to produce. As the engines torque is resisted by these forces, a "moment" (see below) is created about the line of action of the force, the crank. This moment is resisted by the engine mounts. Imagine if the engine mounts were not there, and your wheels were cemented into the ground...Your engine would spin around itself. It doesn't come down to "engine balance" so much as it does the torque from the motor, and the resistance it has to overcome to finally create acceleration of the body. While engine balance does play SOME into the need for good mounting, it's more about the power output of the engine, and the weight. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque
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