kolonelklink87

thats me with the l26 lol *hides from scorn* it's still moving slowly due to uni commitments etc... It definately a poor-mans mod but i'm not chasing mega horses and can't afford all the hassle of mod-plating etc on and engine swap(study income sucks). I've got two more exams to go then i get some time off next month where i'm just doing a bit of lab-work. touch wood i can get started on decompressing and putting together the last mount for the SC. (could use some help on the decompression when that comes around:redface:) Actually i'm really looking for an l28 ATM to build for turbo during semester for a bit of fun (maybe put it i the jap ceddy if i ever finish) because i can't pull car apart in between uni and get it back together for work every week. i'll never finish all these damn degrees lol. Also, one last naughty comment on the qual v. quant cocepts... due to sleep deprivation i think i skipped through alot if nonsense but you're definately right about, in the strictest sense, a dyno figure is quantitative when compared to other figures from the same machine under the same conditions... this relates to the accuracy of the machine etc... if you want to take that data away from the context of that machine (ie compare to someone elses results on another machine on a different day) there's no control to let you know if the data is directly comparable, so i wouldn't unless talking about the ratios of power gained compared to control readings (ie compared to stock dyno runs). I guess what i'm trying to say here is when the accerometer spits out a certain readng at stock settings you cant then compare that to the factory dyno read unless you have a factory car that spun a known amount on a factory dyno and the accelerometer data for that car to scale results appropriately... There's too many factors at play here to use newtonian calculations (ie: "z" acceleration = "x"HP in an ideal universe) in my opinion. my own little addendum to the method of the accel. meter would be to log the information: repeat each reading a few times, note the temperature on each day- try to keep it the same (this might mean daytime in winter and night time in summer if it takes that long) do it on the same bit of road each time at operating temp etc. write everything down!!! I'm sure you figured that out already though. science FTW

Of was of the impression that these kinds of HP readings mean sqwat if you want to compare to another person, to factory or to boast... even dyno figures aren't universal, 20hp can be gained or lost anywhere - big weight factor + skinny stock wheels, auto tranny, moisture on the road and air, air temp on the day etc etc... these kinds of readings are not a science but a "guesstimate". They are however useful for comparing one setup to another when changing a single condition... in science i beleive this is called qualitative data (as opposed to quantitative)

this theme of thread has been done to death- If you've got the time and the interest its MS (FTW!!!) If you've got the money and not the time send it to a tuning shop. The major difference you'll see is MSs' ability to adapt to any future changes you make outside of you initial plan - I personally love the security blanket this offers (great for indecisive projects). Sometimes it can be easier if you have to money to get it tuned by someone else, wolf etc... my personal feelings on this are that it's not as versatile or rewarding an experience but it's definately the path of less resistance if you're so inclined and don't like the steep learning curve involved in self-tuning... As far as getting a map to suite... hybridZ is packed with fuel maps, if you're running an L there's somehting here for you (>search<) it won't be exact, everybodies sensors have slightly different offsets, responsiveness etc etc but it will get you damned close and you can just tweak a little here and there will put you on the money. just my 2c. Cheers,

perhaps someone will respond explainng that this is a bad idea but I've had previous problems with gummed injectors and have used a carb-cleaner soak to solve the problem... damn that stuff is an awesome solvent.

sounds promising, i also considered a reed valve. i wouldn't mind investigating this further as my intended bipass valve is of a toyota origin from a intermitant SC setup they use but the diameter is restrictive... my intent is high-flow-low-boost so any air leakage is a problem as is any restriction to flow. how big is that valve? It's interesting to see different people coming up with significantly different approaches to the same problem... i find the check-valve idea appealing as it drastically reduces induction tube length esp. when using an intercooler. I also wondered if i made an induction box with a series of reed valves at the base what the potential restriction to non-boost flow might this represent? Also, from your diagram i take it you were planning to run boost prior to the TB which would be located in the standard position at the plenum mouth? What mechanism were you planning to run for over-boost protection at idle? Have you considered the impact of variable load from the SC on idle drain? is this significant enough to warrant a IAC program for clutch engaged periods? Yay for hybridz

I'm actually very interested in the check-valve idea with dual intakes... what type of valve were you planning to use that was both of a high enough diameter (ideally 3") and able to seal air appropriately under boost without choking it up at low vacuum when not under boost??

rather than using dual air intakes and a pressure regulated valve i'm using a single intake with a large-diameter bipass valve to bipass the SC when the clutch is disengauged... the stepper motor drives this mechanism

throw some oil down there?

I'm working on something simular to that it's taking me ages as im really skimp on funds so taking slow baby steps after getting the plan and everything else together i had to figure out how to operate the clutch and bipass valve simultataneously. it sounds so simple but stepper motors are always a pain. I ended up having to get a friend who's a mechatronic engineer help me though with the digital logic demands of responding to pulse changes associated with engaging and disengaging the clutch mechanism. I wish i could get MS to drive it but im not sure how to mod it to recieve driver imput abd operate the two mechanisms(if it's possible).

The MS system is very versatile... you'll have to look at what chip, board and code version he's selling but for your application it seems that pretty much any will do... I'm running a MSnS I v3 on an l26 using almost all the stock equipment... the units generally come with a MAP sensor which means you can toss out your AFM and just run a vacuum line from the manifold to the ECU. They're pretty hardy and reliable units, just take the time to wire it up correctly and you shouldnt have any issues... my l26 is my daily driver. Some modification may have to be made to the board itself so you can trigger off your coil(depending if its set that way or not) so it requires a bit of time, patience and alot of reading.... The great thing about the MS system is that its Universal... you can use all the stock sensors(excluding the AFM) and if you dont want to fork out for a wideband o2 sensor you can just tune like you would a carburated engine(except using a laptop). it's definately worth reading into but you have to understand it requires you adopt a totally DIY approach... there's very few people you could take it to to "bail you out" if you get stuck- so there's no security net. That said if you are very specific with your postings the forums and distributors are EXTREMELY helpful... I suggest doing some more reading if you are thinking about an MS because it can be very overwhelming for a first-timer but once you understand the system it's a very rewarding setup that allows you to bolt anything to anything without worrying about if the ecu will cope. Building a MS EFI and putting it onto my car was the single most rewarding thing I ever did in my engine bay.

Probably an irrelevant question but I'll forget to ask later if I dont ask now... How do you set up your crankcase ventilation on those arizona manifolds?

....megasquirt....

As far as anecdotal evidence goes thats a neat counter-point yes The truth of the matter is, of course, that we just wont know untill it's on the dyno... All we have untill then is anecdotes, contrast/comparisons and assumptions. (from the look of that head) Dyno day is getting closer 'though

the photo from nzeder on that post has two intakes on it, the p65 and another, what's the other? ...there's no mention of curved runners in this post, so is that the one you're refering to?

Here is a possible reason why you might want to go down this route...(though, i concede, in this instance it's a bit of a self-fulfilling prophecy). Thats ozcon's l28(NA!) pulling a JDM cedric and trailer with a combined weight exceeding 2000kg... not bad if you ask me. We took it on the freeway up to 100km/h, uphill, downhill, left right center... no issues. This thing is HEAVY. so many memories... (mmm... cedric convoy)

-really? it looks top-notch... i'll look into it... I can appreciate the college nonsense, I'm finishing my B.medsci atm god does it diminish the funds... never enough money to do a proper job

I totally agree with that, that looks beautifully clean, i feel like i should have powdered my intake rather than polishing now lol. yum yum. likewise, my firewall is just plastered with RHD Sh#t. You don't realise how gross it looks untill you see a photo like this.

Very insightful... Anywho; Anyone else got any idea on this? I can try to get some pictures but I'm a bit flat for time atm and probs wont be able to find my camera for a while. I'd love to know more about my ceddy's heritage, picked it up for chips along with some JDM spoked wheels still filled with old japo lotto tickets ...teeeheee.... Cheers, Pete

Possibly but then why not have that in the block number or elsewhere in a somewhat more subtle fashion... I mean it's bigger and bolder than the block cast number... someone put it on there for a reason?

260c coupe; no pillars- no blindspot - no worries, just swerve and smile I actually had a l26 at one point which I cut the cat out of and had a very simple muffler on. It ended up being so much louder than expected even using that simple setup. My brother drives it now and I can hear him coming 2 blocks away even with his put-put <2000rpm drive-style. I use a 6-2-1 with cat and muffler now and its much more of a drivable car. The loud noise was fun for a while but i found it became impractical and annoying at times. If you do do it though why not go all out and run some monster chrome pipes out and up the side of the car - bosozoku style!

I did a little cruising the net and the only reference I could find is the "M" marking on z24's supposedly means mexican build... it sounds either irrelevant or misinformation though' because why would a 77' JDM car have a mexican-built block? ...probably some racist klan member dennouncing mexican worksmanship if you ask me P.s. any more ideas anyone?

Was that on import monster? I remember drooling over somehting simular a week ago... also there was a wild one with triples... I wish I were a weathy man with poor mans' tastes and not a indigent with poor mans aspirations... *sigh*

Hey guys, I was prepping my JDM nissan cedric (2.0L, NAPS, SGLE, k330 pillarless) for long term storage today and noticed an "M30" notation on the drivers side (thats passenger side for you yanks) of the block behind the oil filter. It struck me as notable because it was in very big, bold lettering. It appears to be part of the block cast on an "E30" block, which is visible in the standard position beneath the exaust. The engine is also fitted with e30 head and u98 webless intake manifold without any NAPS notation that I can see. Simularly the injectors are odd cream-coloured tops as opposed to the greentops I have at home for zx's. Since all the literature on these vehicles is inaccessable to my uncultured self I was wondering if anyone here might be able to gleen some light these topics, particularly, i'm intrqued by the m30 stamp. Cheers Gents, Pete

I think you were referring to my post? If so I was expressing my frustration with my ported and cammed l26 w/e88 head (don't know the equivlent year for e88's from k330's in US zeds, ozconnection might know). I can't help but again stress the weight factor here, if you have low torque, low power before 3k(hell, 2500 if you will) in a zed you don't give a hoot because it doesn't affect your drivability. You don't need the extra pull to go for a casual cruise down to the shops for some milk and bread- your weight is down so you can do without it and still keep the revs down. In a "Ced" you're gonna have to hit the power range of the engine to avoid the yuppie sheila in the toyota yaris behind you beeping her well-bred little heart out at the lights. there's no doubt that the stock engine is capable of pulling that weight but there's always room for improvement. Going in a ported direction means you have to spend even more time at higher RPM - & when pull is compulsory this is going to seriously affect the longevity of your engine, in the C' you dont have a choice on this issue so you spend a very considerable amount of time in the powerband of the engine (compared to a zed where upping the rev's is an option for attracting attention and squashing beautiful passengers with g-forces). There was a very nice writeup elsewhere on hybrids regarding low-boost high-flow engines on the concept of flow. The points on that article were all very relevant and valid but the above are two points which are often overlooked due to the versatility of the z-chassis. This thread is about building an engine to suit a specific vehicle and intention, not an engine for your vehicle Having had the opportunity to drive ozcon's stock-port 280c w/holley I can tell you that car pulls- esp. compared to my MS'd & ported version (which has 0.2l less but also lighter being a coupe with many accessories stripped out). I'm very much looking forward to the chance to try a run with the new port and carb adjustments.