MrPhotographer06

Man, I come across deals all the time. Craigslist and haggle.. lol I missed out on a 2003 5.3 running with harness for 150.00. I got called into work and someone showed up with more money before I could. Dad just bought a wrecked 2001 1500 pickup with a 5.3/4l60e for 500. ran when wrecked. still will make a couple hundred back at scrap afterwards. I've got a few empty 700r4 cases laying around so I'll be bolting it up after I get mounts in to play with the exhaust and such. Just ordered a S&W Racing cage, just wanted some roll bars in the rear. Also got two new pans, and a rocker piece to put in and I'm pretty solid after that. Then I'll have the car at the house in Raeford after ZDAYZ if you want to come have a look-see.

I picked up my setup for 900. Engine, Trans, Turbo, Intercooler BOV and a couple other odds and ends. Its all disassembled, but I was going to do that anyway.. lol 5.3 is the same platform as the rest, so may as well run with it.

Picked up a 73. Still torn between 60/80e.. I've got a 60e Core for 100, or wait around for an 80...

Definitely subscribing to this one! nice work!

While you are correct, the piece that i read said it should read between 60k-150k ohms... I had something along 15 ohms between the terminal and output terminal on the old coil. I didn't remember the specific number because it was far below the required number. New coil reads 100k. The self-diagnostic functions of the ECU are japanese to me, never could get it to enter the diagnostic mode. I'll give it another shot, but the tutorial I read was stating to wait for the confirmation flashes before turning it counter clockwise and then back to "on" assuming that "on" is the diagnostic mode, i got a bunch of matched flashes that kept repeating. with it being 10's/1's positioing I got 22,33,44,55 but I'm not even sure if i did it right. 22 Fuel Pump. 33 Heated Oxygen Sensor. 44 ECCS Normal Operation 55 No Malfunction. so, if its no malfunction, why isnt it starting? not even one half attempt at sparking. While you're right, I figured bad gas, but 5 gallons of new gas on top of the existing gallon in there shouldnt cause it to stop running. I replaced the fuel filter as the part of tune-up parts i installed at once. Fuel filter, spark plugs, wires. I'm sorry if i forgot to post something in the original post, I work nights and hadn't slept since wednesday night when I posted that last night.. lol I'm pretty much to the point of part out, and scrap the rest just to free up space and funds for the 240 at this point.

Wrong forum, I get it... but maybe the z31 guys can chime in, or anyone of knowledge. So, to make a long story short, We bought someone elses project. Yes, I know this usually bites people in the rear and i've been lucky until this. 90 Pathfinder XE, VG30 4x4. Someone swapped the motor at some point in time. Guy we bought it from said it had some sort of sputtering issue, and the battery was stone dead when we went to look at it, but bought it anyway. Got it home, and my memory is foggy on the timeline but anywho, Gas, ignition module (someone suggested so we tried), and a jump box got it to start. Had a cammed sounding idle, but leveled with LIGHT throttle. any futher it sounded like bad gas/fuel starvation. Changed the fuel filter and gave it a shot. 10 bucks in gas, and hit the road to blow it out. made it 8-10 miles with some smoke but it wouldnt get over 50 mph. coasting to a stop light, it cut off and wouldn't start. Did some research, some said the "hot start " issue was common. Next day, it took some crank priming but on the 2nd go it would start right up with the same sputtering. People have bounced ideas off me left and right but i've come to no conclusion. I left it in the yard with work and other activities taking precedence, I started back on it last week. Dead battery so I jumped it and it turns over for days and with compression sounds from the exhasut pipe but no start. The fuel pump sounded super weak this whole time so I replaced it. found the lines loose, and spewing fuel so I feel there was a feed problem here. Got that fixed and onto the engine bay. 12v at the coil harness, but no spark to the dist. using my in-line spark checker. Checked Ohms at the coil, and it read really low, so I replaced the coil. Didnt thing to pull the fuel pump relay during testing, but I used a compression checker on 5/6 cylinders and had 120-150 lbs. (skipped #6..bugger.) Then starter would engage but not turn over. Pulled starter, had it tested and they suggested the fusible link was dying, so i removed it and straight wired it. Still no turn over. decided to pull all but #6 plug again so with reduced compression to get it turning over. Nothing. Pulled #6 and when i just hit the key gas shot everywhere. Hydrolocked. So, I pulled the intake. Found one injector with no reading, 4 injectors with 12.5~ readings and one at 69 ohms... clicked it with a 9v and it went back to normal. All had bad, pinched o-rings. Replaced o-rings, reinstalled injectors and buttoned it back up. STILL NO FIRE. I'm out of ideas. I guess the crank angle position sensor is what dictates fire from the coil and must replace distributor? I dont know... something happened somewhere. Can anyone help? sorry for the long winded post.. -Cam

Wow... as i'm here gathering info on my build, this build is definitley motivation for where I want to be in the near future! nice car! I daily drive an 04 gto and I know with my odds and ends, and tune I'm hanging pretty well with the LS2 GTO guys. That being said, the GTO weighs 3725 without me or my crap in it, and my car is a blast to drive. I can only imagine the feeling in this 2500 lb car! I've been considering going single or twins but some builds look like there isnt enough room, but yours makes it look so spacious! lol

I may have found one, I'll know in the next day or two...

Definintely down for helping anyone...Early may is good with me outside of ZDayZ, which we'll be taking the 350 to. Still in search of a z car for me... Know of a roller up your way? 40/60/80 lol

Also, JCI said their headers/mounts work great... And priced well. The 5.3 from a 1500 pickup is a great option, thats what I'm going with. I also know a fella who just ran a 77mm billet turbo, intake and cam and made just over 800 on stock bottom end. I've got some info for PCM wiring saved away, so maybe we can wire up together. lol Also have a local tuner who will make anything on the PCM work for cheap.

I'll fully respond later, I'm yet again running on fumes on shift... but the 60e is a decent transmission for low HP builds in stock form. The 65e (5 planet, couple other things ) came behind the LS2 with 400 HP and the 60e came in the LS1 cars with 350 hp. I'm probably 330-340 RWHP in my GTO with my stock trans and tune and it shifts nice. The downshifts do hurt the trans more than anything, but the 2-3 shift is always going to be lazy in stock form. I have a buddy right now running a plate kit on his cam-only LS1 camaro that put down 580 on gas with a stock trans... So anything can be done. I would run 80e if you can afford it from the get go. The 80e is the best out there as-is but if youre going to be beating on it as I will, a cooler, new clutch packs, solenoids and some VB work will do you a world of difference. @mark, the clutch could be adjusted to fit your needs with pedal and master adjustment. The old lady's left leg was left partially disabled from an injury and we have her clutch set to within 3 inches of the top. You litterally can drive it with your big toe if it were strong enough lol There are a couple 80's in the z platform but the 60 takes some BFH massaging, I can imagine there is quite a bit for the 80. I'm just going with the 60e for now I believe...

Coming from the muscle car world, TCI has a pretty good rep and product. I dont care for their converters, Greg at FTI is amazing for that. FTI sells a street brawler 3200 for the 60e for like 330 but I know a dealer and have connections so I can get it for like 300 shipped. TCI's TCU gives further tuning control to the trans over traditional tuning via PCM. The paddle shifter will shift through forward gears, but obviously not P-R-N. From the reading I've done, even with paddle shifters you will not have engine braking properties with a normal valve body. So I'm considering a fully manual valve body but we'll see. First obviously is to be runnng and driving before even considering tracking the car to need it. The lady prefers 6 speed but she has had two surgeries to correct her scoliosis and the final surgery has a high potential to leave her paralyzed waist down, but will ultimately end with that at some point if not immedately after surgery. Not worth the conversion work twice... I'm curious mark, as to what you have if you'd like to talk about it and where you're located in NC. We're looking to move to Colorado as soon as the Army allows, but we could combine heads and lend hands if you're near! http://www.tciauto.com/tc/electronics/transmission-control-unithtml http://www.tciauto.com/tc/paddle-shifter-with-displayhtml/ totaling at 980, this option is cheaper than any other paddle option on the market. I'm pretty stoked. I really wish I could make the Trail Blazer SS NV-149 transfer case fit underneath the Z. I dont think ground clearance would an issue as much as the front end setup. Maybe when I have more fab options I could make it work. I wouldnt care if it sat a little higher than average if it was AWD. I know the weight probably wouldn't be worth it though. Anywho, Thanks for the read Jay. I'll look at it when I get home from work here in a few, most of the content is blocked. lol I'm ready to get this thing started!

So, I'm still in the layout stages of the LS 240 build... Hell, we havent even brought the shell to the house yet. But, I'm toying with an idea thats near impossible... But I need some underbody shots of someones 60/80e build. T-56 is the most popular swap but the wife will one day be left paralyzed from the waist down and I'm going to then transfer the car over to hand control... But for now, we're building a 5.3/auto with paddle shift by TCI. Anywho. I'd greatly appreciate anyone who could show me some trans mount area pics of a 4l60 or 80 swap! Thanks guys!

Er, I'm not sure where you've been looking.. I have 2 GTO's and rather big in the community... to us LS1 intakes are trash compared to the LS6 and they've been going for 50-60 bucks on ebay or local sales.. LS6 could be 250-350 for take-offs and people not needing them for upgrades. That being said, I have an LS1 in my garage that I MAY use on my z car, if not we can make a deal or, shoot me an email, and I'll put a post out for an LS6 and see what I can get. I know i can have you responses in a day. My buddy sold his complete LS6 take off from his goat for 450 shipped, TB, rails, injectors and bolts... there is hope. and the LS6 is a night and day difference to the LS1... cam.kelley04@gmail.com

Any finished pics?