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About Revenant

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    Kentucky, United States

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  1. Quick update: I found a new Mr. Gasket electric fuel pump lying around that I hadn't even taken out of the box. Mounted that near the fuel tank so I have no more than about 1 foot of line to the inlet. Also found out that the guy who I bought my Z from was for some reason running fuel from the return line, rather than the actual outlet on the tank...so I fixed that. Ran power to it, pressurized, no leaks. Adjusted the mixture after warming it up, and took it for a drive. No more starvation! Pulls smooth and hard! Thanks all for the suggestions! Getting about 6psi at the c
  2. Just an update: Been playing with wiring configurations, filter locations and such with the Mr. Gasket 12v pump. At one point, running straight 12v from the battery to the pump with a good ground, I was getting 6.5psi, which is ideal for my particular carburetor (Edelbrock 1406 Performer.) Can't figure out what I did to get that. Later I was getting nil pressure until I manually primed the fuel line (read: sucked on it till I spit out gas, pinched it off, then plugged it into the pump inlet) at which point I got about 4.75. I'm going to try to relocate the pump closer to the ga
  3. Just for an example: Say I'm cruising along at 30mph, downshift, then rapidly accelerate to 50, wide open throttle. When I hit about 45mph, the engine will start to bog down, similar to the symptoms of vapor lock (It's not overheating though.) I'm sure an EFI would be more expensive and complex than just relocating/replacing the fuel pump and dialing in the pressure, but it seemed like it'd be an interesting project and I was curious if anyone had tried it.
  4. Currently I'm running the good ol' Mr. Gasket 12v electric fuel pump. I adopted this car in the middle of its conversion, and interestingly the guy I got it from had the fuel pump mounted in the engine bay, rather than the usual 1 foot or so from the fuel tank. But it works, kinda. Post-pump fuel pressure is about 4.5 PSI. As I understand it that's a bit low for a 4-barrel Edelbrock Carb - I need about 5-7 PSI. That could be why I'm having some fuel starvation issues when I gun it hard. I'm considering completely re-doing my fuel delivery system. Curious if anyone has played
  5. Hey all. I'm currently in the process of installing the MSA front camber adjustment kit. Unfortunately I'm missing two of the delrin half-bushings that are necessary for the install. I reached out to Motorsport Auto and they unfortunately couldn't sell me the bushings themselves. They directed me to the manufacturer of the kit, g-Machine, but I've been googling all afternoon and can't find a storefront or anything. Anyone happen to have contact info for g-Machine?
  6. I obtained a pre...umm, "hybridized"? '75 280z fairly recently and, having swapped the tranny and done a bunch of other stuff, I'm now trying to tackle a fuel starvation issue. The previous owner installed a very generic Mr. Gasket 12S fuel pump in the engine bay (apparently 4-7 PSI.) This has caused me some fuel starvation and vaporlock issues. The stock mechanical pump on my engine (1970 SBC 350) is apparently not an option, both per the JTR conversion manual, as well as my own experimentation. What have you folks used in the way of fuel pumps? The JTR manual says to mou
  7. Thanks all! I've got the service manual and it's helped a lot during the process. I couldn't find that tidbit in there. I guess maybe it's just supposed to be common knowledge.
  8. So I'm getting ready to mount my T-5 to the bellhousing. I changed the gear oil, and while tipping the transmission to work out the old mount bolts, I noticed A LOT of gear oil pouring out of the tailshaft housing. Is this normal? The oil seal back there looks fine. I guess my question is if the seal is actually made when the driveshaft slip-yoke is slid in, or if it should be all sealed up as is.
  9. I got super lucky. Found a T-5 from an '86 V-8 Camaro...complete with clutch and friction disk in pretty good condition, as well as flywheel (will need resurfacing, but that's cheap) all for $350. It's not World Class, but I figure at that price if I manage to destroy it, it won't be such a loss. But yeah, most of the V-8 T-5's I was seeing were upwards of $700
  10. I actually looked at that as an option. I've still got a V6 T-5 with the ford bolt pattern. How did you account for the tilt? I assume one could fabricate a custom crossmember? Also, I noticed that on the V6 T-5's the tailshaft housing is longer. When I test-fitted my V6 T-5, the shifter location ended up about 4" behind (towards the back of the car) the hole. Did you have to account for this somehow?
  11. Awesome. Thank you! Now to try and find a T-5...which is getting more and more difficult.
  12. What size flywheel and clutch did you use? My understanding is that the T-5 bellhousing will not accept a 14" diameter 168 tooth flywheel, which is what I had and would be getting with the T56. I guess the price difference between the T5 and T56 would make up for the cost of a new starter. I've done a lot of research on the T-5 and actually purchased one (though I didn't do ENOUGH research...the one I got was from a V6 and had the Ford bolt pattern.) Given that they were only behind 5.0L V8's, were there any issues mating up the flywheel and clutch with the 350?
  13. First post! Before the witch-hunt begins, I've become quite adept with the search function here. I bought a JTR-converted '75 280z with an SBC 350 out of a 1970 Chevrolet Bel Air about two years ago. Searching on this website has helped immensely in getting this thing up-and-running, and fixing the bungles the previous owner made. My Z initially had a TH350 automatic transmission which, while nice in a drag, was not sufficient for highway driving. And I'm not planning on doing any racing. So it's currently on my garage floor, where it belongs. I've been looking at manual trans
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