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NylonAdmiral last won the day on August 30 2015

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  1. Hi guys I've trawled the forum and found a whole bunch of different posts but they seem to be inconclusive, or they're so old that they're full of broken links. I've got an RB26 from an R34, it's currently at the engine builders and I'm trying to get the guys there to relocate the dipstick to the rearward position for me as it has a RWD oil pan on it. There seem to be a lot of posts saying that there is just a brass plug that can be knocked out, however this seems to be most prevalent on RB25 related threads. Whilst some people seem to have been able to do this on RB26s, there are
  2. Hi, I'm looking for a set of rear turrets from a 240z. Perhaps you have a rusted out or crash damaged car? If so I'm looking for the turrets to be cut out out. I've attached an image highlighting the panels I'm after. Thanks.
  3. Hi guys, I'm trying to get my drivetrain alignment set and am finding that the tail end of my gearbox seems to need to be raised pretty high. Here's the setup: '71 240z, RB26 DETT mated to RB25 DET gearbox, McKinney engine and gearbox mounts, R200 diff mounted in T3 rear end, Because the T3 moustache bar is solid billet and the R200 is solid mounted to that, there isn't really any way of adjusting the orientation of the diff, therefore the position of the engine and gearbox need to be adjusted to give the correct propshaft angles. With the McKinney engine mounts, I have the poly bush
  4. Thanks Bonk I think it would still work without the diverter valve if tube 13 were plumbed into the inlet? When the pressure is high, excess vapours would be vented into the inlet, when the pressure is low, the tank would draw fresh air down the same line? As far as I can see, the diverter valve is only actually necessary if you want to vent the fuel vapour to a different location, such as the crank case?
  5. Thanks for the input. Tony D, it was actually your posts on other threads that had made me lean more towards keeping the evap system and incorporating the relevant fittings into the new tank. I've been mulling it over but was interested to see how other people have done it on here. At present, I'm thinking of keeping the evap system etc and making the new tank with the required fittings. I'm just working out what to do with "tube 13" now really and had thought about a couple of options. 1. I guess I could fit it with a remote vent valve in order to allow the tank to breath. 2. Wou
  6. Hi guys, I'm trying to figure out a few fuel tank/evap requirements. I know this has been discussed in a few different places on HybridZ but I haven't got a conclusive answer because most of the posts seem to discuss the pros/cons of deleting the evap system. Basically I have a US spec '71 240z. I've got my RB26 installed and am now just plumbing in the fuel system. I'm fabricating a custom aluminium fuel tank to sit in the OEM position and am working out the final requirements for fittings on the tank. As this gives me somewhat of a blank slate, I had considered designing out
  7. To be honest, I've found that the answers to most of your questions come down to three things: Time, money and skills. If you have very little free time, or don't have the skills to fabricate the parts you need, then you'll have to pay a lot of money for them, or for the services of someone who can make them for you. If you have no money, you can spend a lot of time researching what has been previously done, and searching out all the bits you need at the best prices etc. I know it's not really the answer you're looking for but there are a huge number of parts available for all the engines y
  8. Exlifesaver, I left the speed sender in place but notched the mount in order to clear it. You can see it in this short YouTube video I made to explain what I did. When I next take the engine/transmission out, I'll weld in some plate to tidy it up, then I'll also add some bracing around the mount in the tunnel. I've looked through so many build threads I can't remember which is which but I think ZT-R one did the notching, with no additional bracing on his build and it was OK? Maybe look through his build thread.
  9. I'm also trying to set the orientation of the engine correctly. I've found people saying that the engine should be angled over at a bout 10-11 degrees, although I can't find any info on where this angle is being measured from? Does anyone know? Also, I'm trying to work out the correct angle "nose to tail", my engine seems to sit quite a bit nose up. Does anyone know what the correct angle should be? Thanks
  10. Ah OK thanks, that makes sense. I'll work out some strengthening options around the mounting points. I have an R33 GTST box which is obviously more similar to the 34 GTT box rather than an RB20 box.
  11. Here you go. Here's a handful that I pulled from the people I'm following. Worldwide, S30 "build threads": https://i.instagram.com/sssrdub/ https://i.instagram.com/2jgreezy/ https://i.instagram.com/allthingspower/ https://i.instagram.com/redgst97/ https://i.instagram.com/fairlady_240z/ https://i.instagram.com/thegoldenturd/ https://i.instagram.com/mee633/ https://i.instagram.com/shawn_s30z/ https://i.instagram.com/datsmo280z/ https://i.instagram.com/dylan46_240z/ https://i.instagram.com/beau.b_240z/ https://i.instagram.com/s30garage/ https://i.instagram.com/jmoyetyt/ https://i.instagram.co
  12. If you're actually on IG, click on the list of people that I follow and you'll be able to find a lot of accounts with people with nice Z's. https://www.instagram.com/adamhutchin/ There are at least a few HybridZ members on there I think. If you're not on IG, I'll pick out a bunch of accounts with nice cars and post them here so you can view them in your browser.
  13. Thanks for the info ZT-R. I've been through 15 pages of your build blog and can't seee any pics of the mods you did to the tranny mount. Can you pount me in the right direction? Do you mean the McKinney mount bent or do you mean the mount inside the transmission tunnel bent? Also, do you know what the correct inclination of the RB should be? Thanks!
  14. I've just spent some length of time trying to figure out the engine/transmission fitment issues I'm having at the moment and have hit a bit of a wall so I'm hoping someone on here can spot where I'm going wrong. Car is a US spec '71 240z, engine is a BNR34 RB26, transmission is from an R33 GTST (RB25), engine and gearbox mounts are from McKinney Motorsport. I fitted the McKinney engine mounts to the engine, then the McKinney gearbox poly mount to the gearbox, then bolted the engine & transmission together. I lowered the whole assembly into the car, and using an engine lev
  15. Thanks stony, don't worry about the pics I ended up just making a different bracket.
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