Kingnothing616

Well I got to spend a little time with my Z this weekend, things are always slower than you want them to be, trips to the auto parts, hardware store, etc... you know how it goes. Got the Radiator installed, hoses ran, spent many hours trying to hook up transmission linkage to the glide. I wasnt able to use the stocker shifter, so I went and bought a B&M Z Gate. Had to fab up a little bracket to get the angle right on the cable. Hooked up the starter and started working on my wiring. The driveshaft that I had made fit extremely perfect, and looks great. Also figured I better drain and fill the oil since its been the same since around 2001, was still fairly clean, but I decided to go with the Valvoline VR-1 Racing oil because of the ZDDP factor and all of that stuff that i have read about. I think I have everything figured out except the fuel pump part. I have no idea how oil pressure sender that i have adapted is supposed to tie in with the starter, and the fuel pump. Any help would be extremely appreciated. I can't seem to locate the correct wire that I am supposed to splice into coming from the tank. I picked up some parts last night to get my throttle linkage hooked up, so I will probably get on that tomorrow night after work. Oil pressure switch mounted with the adapters per JTR Dont worry a chrome pan is coming.. haha My Dad had an extra set of MSD Wires so I kinda stole them.. lol

Well the Drivetrain was out of a 66 Chevy Impala, The 283 Was Bored .030 9.5-1 Hypereutectic Pistons, Heads redone, and valves were oversized by about .015 if i remember correctly, its been a long time. Stock springs and rocker arms. .465, .488 Cam shaft with 290 ish duration, and the overlap makes it lope like you wouldnt believe. 265 SBC crankshaft, edelbrock alum. intake, edelbrock 600 CFM carb, stocker dizzy with pertronix electronic conversion. It raps up really quickly, its going to be extremely peppy, cant wait to drive it. 350's are a dime for 2 or 3 dozen, I've always liked the 283, underrated IMO. Update: My driveshaft was finished today, went with the beefier tranny yoke instead of the thin one, spicer Ujoints, 22-1/4 from center to center of the u-joints. Only charged me $80..i thought that was a smokin deal.

Yeah i will probably go with one after i get finished with the interior of the car. For now, I already had the Glide rebuilt, stall TCI Converter, and a B&M Trans pack. Its about 800 to get an R4 built sans converter.

Where did you attach the oil pressure gauge to? And on another note.. bars leak is the last thing you want to put into your engine, it generally makes things worse, clogs up the passages in the radiator, yes it "MIGHT" stop a leak, but the adverse effects are far worse.

While I was in the mood for cleaning and painting i figured i better go ahead and do the cross member which turned into the whole front suspension. So I decided to go with the Tokico HP Struts, Eibach Springs, Poly bushings, Lower A-Arm Camber kit, MOOG ball joints, Stock Rotors with Toyota Calipers. Here is the stocker befores New Parts POR 15 On others Cradle Spacers Installed Decided to paint my strut rods red till I have time to build some adjustable ones for Caster Transmission painted and buckled up, went ahead and replaced the front pump seal and the rear seal since it had been sitting for so long. Mocked up first time before removal to resolve brake line and other clearance issues, also wanted to see if distributor was going to clear, which it did not. This is all I have for today, I worked on it for about 4 hours this morning trying to figure out my transmission linkage, and kickdown cable. Mounting the Powerglide turns out to be a little tougher than the 700 or the 350. Have to bring my air hammer home from work tomorrow to take care of some space issues.

Ok Cleaning up the engine bay correctly is definately the key to getting your coating to stick. I do a lot of front end and alignment work for antique car restorers, and they all use POR 15 Products, and they really work from what ive seen. I started out using the marine clean that they sell mixed 50/50 with water and kept it soaked for about 30 minutes and then hosed it off. After that you can soak it with the metal ready, because the paint will not adhere if the metal is not etched. Hose that off and let it completely dry to get these results.. Before.. After.. The POR 15 Black paint is pretty sweet you can just put it on with a brush, it is self leveling and has a nice gloss finish. Make sure and wear gloves though, because there is literally nothing that will get it off your skin if it dries, not even paint thinner, you just have to wear it off. haha. The 283 that I built was going into a 1950 GMC, chopped top, shaved, etc. but i lost interest in it. It was a father son thing, and my dad kinda picked it out without a choice for me. This is the truck. Motor out of the truck and being painted I ordered the JTR Book and Full swap kit with mounts, radiator headers, and all, everything was perfect and great quality. Notched Motor mount to have access to the bolt hole Very Impressed the the quality of the Sanderson Headers

I have not posted that much yet, but I am cruising this site and searching on the daily. I know how much I like to read and look through the fully documented conversions so I figured I would introduce myself and share my experiences. My name is Coye, I'm 22, married to an amazing woman and I work as an ASE Master Technician at a small shop in Tyler, TX. I bought this car in May of last year for $1000 from a youth pastor. 54,000 original documented miles, and had sat up for the past 15 years in the sun which destroyed everything in its path, paint, dash, seats, etc. I had intentions of rebuilding the motor that was in it because of low compression on one and six, but I ran across an already rebuilt turbo motor for only 300, after much anguish and wiring problems with all of the straight six stuff i decided to drop in a 350 HP small block 283 with a powerglide that i had already built when i was 14. Never been on the street, just cranked up every couple of months to op temp. Here is what I started with back in May. christmas present to myself On car Pulling the Motor Nasty engine bay Sans Auto Trans Stripping the Old wiring down to only headlights, horn, Alternator, starter etc. And now on to all the engine bay Cleanup

I will definately check that and some other things today. Last night i finally had a chance to tinker with it again. I have not had my multimeter out yet to check resistance on the coolant temp sensors, but i did double check all of the connectors everywhere, and everything is suprisingly clean. I took apart the TPS, and at about the 2k rpm spot, both of the contacts were touching, so i pulled another tps i had off another motor, and it does the same thing, but per momsz's post i bent the contacts around to about where i thought that they should be, and also put some new NGK blue wires on there. It seems to be quite a bit better, its not just flooding itself out like it was, and it will rev like crazy w/o being in gear. But as soon as you take it down the road and give it more than half throttle it starts bucking, and missing. The rpms can be at 2k or 4k, as long as you get there slowly its fine, but as soon as you give it more than half throttle it goes nutso. I know I still have some more checking to do, so here is an update, and any input is always greatly appreciated. Thanks, Coye....

Well I was really busy at work today, so i only got to tinker with it for about 10 minutes at the end of the day. I started taking the connectors off of the water temp sensors, and everything that i have found, and searched for shows that there should only be three. Well my 280 has four. Anyways i cleaned all of the connectors and hooked everything back up, could be my imagination, but it seems like its not smoking quite as bad, and it still will not go one lick past 3500 without missing and running like crap. Just an update, still need to check the TPS contacts, etc. Thanks for everyones help.

I just put a fuel filter on it a couple weeks ago just for maintenence. Im thinking its either a sensor, or lack of hot spark problem, because when i cranked her up this morning there is black smoke pouring out when i rev it up.

Sounds like a clutch problem to me, i would guess worn out disc, and extreme heat checks after driving it like that, and as far as simple lack of power goes, EVO's and Scooby's are really bad about blowing out the wastegate seal.

I have checked for vaccum leaks, and I have a blaster 2 coil on the way just for kicks. I checked all of the electrical connectors on the fuel injectors before i hooked them back up, but not some of the others yet. Mineola is about 90 miles east of you on Highway 80. I go through where you live all the time on I-30 to go see my sister in Saginaw. Also was wondering what wires i should go with, I know Magnecors are good, but ive been looking at the ngk blues as well....

Although this is my first post, I am not new to the site, and any help would be greatly appreciated. After searching for a while I finally figured I should post my exact problems. I have a 76 280z that I bought back in may as my first z car. 55k original miles and it had no compression on #3, so I found a rebuilt motor that i couldnt pass up and dropped it in about a month ago. I ran it for a couple weeks with an extreme loss of power, and finally got around to doing some diagnosis. Not hitting on #3 or #4. Good enough spark, within 2 or 3 deg. on timing, 125 compression on all cyl. Pretty sure it got rebuilt with new turbo pistons. Good Noid on all injector wires, so I figured bad injectors. Found some NISMO new injectors from a guy in california, and put them in on friday afternoon with new rubber.. etc. Now I am hitting on all 6, but it runs like crap. seems to have a dead miss at exactly 1600, no more no less, and it will not rev past 3500 without bucking, and just straight up running terrible. So I did all the simple stuff before it got frustrated.. new cap and rotor, checked and regapped plugs, checked timing, etc. I am somewhat at a loss, I dont know if the flowrate of the new injectors is too much, or if it is ignition or what. I mechanic for a living, and am a quick learner i just need to know where to start. Thanks a lot.... Coye.