Kingnothing616

Yes they are 002's, and I have no idea about fitment of other wheels, I just know that mine fit... haha

Here is my setup on the front with Toyota 4x4 calipers.

I didnt have any clearance issues with my headers, and I am using the 1 5/8 Primaries. They are probably the best fitting headers I have ever owned.

Very nice sir!

There is a lot to be said for a woman that puts up with our obsessions. Luckily my wife has been supportive the whole way through all of my Z conversion stuff, and was super thrilled and proud when she finally got to ride in it. Even though she had to sit in the floorboard because the passenger seat was out to do my fuel pump wiring.. haha

I am very suprised to see that people have had all the good luck with the jag/lincoln motors. At the shop I work at, we have seen nothing but trouble out of these things. We just did a 27 hour timing chain R&R on an S type with only 90k on it. About 4 weeks ago we had another S type with only 75k that had popped the head gaskets, and this car was perfectly clean, maint. records etc. And then all of them have the normal coil boot breakdown to cause a lifetime of misfires. So I guess if you are going to use one, go ahead and put Timing chains on it, and follow the service manual instructions very carefully.

Well I have been extremely busy with starting a new job, house projects, side jobs, etc. I tinkered with the Z a few days ago and here is what I found with the time allotted. Hooked up a fuel pressure guage and had the right amount of pressure with good volume. Hooked up a vaccuum guage and found a problem. at idle it was bouncing between 10in down to zero very quickly back and forth, and would hold steady at about 13 or so off idle, which I know is wrong, question is, why? I pulled the valve covers off to check for a hammered cam, but running all the rocker arms seemed to have about the right amount of travel, and I re-adjusted anyways while I had them off. I know this may not be enough info to inquire for help, but I only had about an hour... so.

Seems odd that he doesnt have any pictures of the products.

Good job on finding it buddy, they can be a nightmare sometimes for sure.

Find that search button, use it... build a relationship. It will show you love like you have never seen.. haha

Is the switch on the 240 in the multifunction switch on the column, same as the 280? I should be able to answer this for you.

Nice job man, It can get very annoying searching around the junkyards though.. haha

Update: Car has been running pretty good lately, took it to another car show a few weeks back and everything did fine on the way home. Started the car up to take it to town the next day after work and anything over half throttle it started backfiring out the carb. Thinking it was probably a fire issue because of the old cap and rotor, probably carbon tracking, I put a new cap and rotor on it and checked all my wires. Everything looked good and the old rotor was a little oxidized. Cranked it up and took it down the road...... same thing. So I pulled all the plugs out and they were a little carboned up, so I put a new set in, and ran my valves down again while looking for even lift on the rocker arms while running. Same problem. I haven't had a chance to take it to work because of all the rain and put it on the scope, but it is driving me nuts. So I thought I would post it and see what people think.

You should send me a PM next time you come down here, I always like to meet up with a Z guy.

That is awesome man. Do you still have a Z car? I was taking mine to the shop for some serious Carb issues that I finally got figured out.

That just seems to be where the JTR Mounts place the motor, so I didnt really ask any questions. Whenever I tried to move the motor closer to the driver side, it hits the steering shaft. So I just let it be and all seems to be fine.

I am running a '66 model 283, short pump, etc. I fabbed up a bracket and mounted the stock Z tensioner, and then mounted my alternator up high. Seems to work well.

I was so worked up watching some of this video, my wife was like Jeez Coye what are you watching?

Wow!

I must agree with Titus on this subject.. super clean sir.

Just got back from a car show with my dad and his 69 Stingray, thought I would share some pics.

My wife and I both just read this thread and have to say very sorry. Just makes me twitch with anger...

Okay buddy I checked with the automotive website and here is what I found for you. Hi all, I need some help w/this car. Original problem: cust barely made it to our shop. No drive any gear. Car cooled off, pulled into parking area OK. Warmed up car again, no drive. Tested line pres only, very low 45 dropping to around 10 psi. Assumed the car had bad t convertor but if so overhaul would be in order o remove metal shavings. Also possible pump problem. Overhauled trans, no apparent damage, just cleaned up some metal and replaced a couple of worn needle brngs. Replaced the convertor w/ a rebuilt 'HO12' from APD Parts. After work same problem, also noisy trans and conv locking up killing eng @ times. Car not driveable. I assumed I made a mistake and overhauled it again, still found nothing, carefully inspected regul valve assy per factory book, perfect. ALL valves seem free and like new. Inserted ms into torq conv, could not turn at all without turning the whole conv. Decided then : bad reman conv. Requested another reman conv (a Honda 1 is 500+ $), installed trans a 2nd time w /2nd conv. Car drove fine 5 mi, then same problem. No drive any gear. Coasted to sidewalk, after siting 2 mins made it to shop, lost all drive again. After cooling works for a few minutes. Assembly was done carefully following the Honda svc manual to avoid mistakes. I think it's a bad convertor but would like to hear from anyone who has been there. Am I missing something??? Thanks in advance, Rick... (sorry about the VIN )[/b] Updated on Feb 12, 1999 6:37 AM Thx for all the replys. Most indicate poss clogged cooler or strainer. The cooler was flushed at 1st ohaul, is now bypassed to be sure;same problem exists. Car is ok 5 mins, then no drive any gear, no slipping in the interim. The strainer was replaced at 1st overhaul but not the 2nd time I went through. I only ran it maybe 15mins after 1st o/h and didn't think it would clog that fast. No metal on magnet, no trash visible. I'm thinking it's ok until the fluid gets warm & thin, at which time the the stator needs to push on the regulator valve to have sufficient line pressure. Since the first reman convertor was locking up, it doesn't seem that unreasonable. Also this is exactly how the car was acting when the customer dropped it off. I have a new $500 Honda convertor sitting on my desk but am reluctant to put it in without being sure. My BIG question is: is this how this car would act w/ a bad convertor? specifically I'm thinking one way clutch inside convertor is not allowing a reaction against the stator shaft. Thx in advance, Rick... Rick Young Owner/Technician Westside Automotive Marietta, Georgia, USA FIX posted on Feb 18, 1999 6:42:59 AM FIX: Another New filter and HONDA OE torque cnvrtr. Like many of you said, the FILTER was clogged. I overlooked this the 2nd time I went through the trans, thinking a new filter would be fine after only 15 mins use, in a transm that looked clean on dissasembly. It apparently was clogged by the aftermarket convertor that didn't even make it around the block before it began locking up. (everything was clean & cooler flushed the 1st time). Also installed an aux filter in the cooler return line in case our flush job missed anything. THANKS for all the helpful replys. Rick...

Some of you may have been somewhat following my '76 283-Glide Conversion. Well I was really dissapointed with the performance of the Powerglide, and after speaking with Grumpyvette I decided to trade a friend a fresh Turbo 350 for my powerglide. The tranny already had a rebuild with a shift kit, I decided to add a Jegs 3,000 stall converter, chrome pan and filter kit, B&M kickdown cable. And instead of getting a $100 Lokar transmission dipstick, I decided to try a knockoff from ebay for $25. I have to say that it is very good quality and I am extremely satisfied. For my shift linkage I pulled out the shifter lever that is held in with the set screw and flipped it over to the other side, drilled a hole, welded in a new nut and reinstalled. The shift rod is the factory rod with a few minor bends in it. The holes in the bottom of the shifter, and the lever on the transmission were too big so I welded them up, ground them smooth, and drilled a 5/16 hole in the middle. Turned out very nice, so I thought i would share for anyone who is going through the same process.

I should be able to help you with this problem, I just need a few more details. When you say it loses all drive, do you mean the tranny starts slipping, the car dies, or what? Code 15 is typically distributor problems, either electrical, or the seal inside lets oil seep in from the head and shorts things out. Just let me know...