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Everything posted by John Washington
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To Everyone Working On Or Completed a Ferrari GTO Rebody
John Washington replied to Zerrari GTO's topic in Body Kits & Paint
I have been saying for a year that this winter would be the time I would finally be able to get around to doing something with the GTORR. However, I've been busier with orders than ever in the past...especially the holiday season which is normally the time I get to catch up. However, I have talked to several folks about getting a group of us together for the Knott's Berry Farm Kit Car Show in the LA area at the end of April. I've emailed the folks who put on the show to get a date from them, but it has not yet been announced. Knott's is normally right around the same time as the MSA show, so it might be convenient to have a gathering at both places. If one of you guys is pretty skilled with web stuff, I would be interested in working with you to get the GTORR up to speed a little quicker. I agree that a forum is important, but FAQs are even more so. Anyway, let's chat! -
I do not think there were ever any clear headlight covers available for the JCR kit. A fellow sent me some fiberglass headlight covers for that kit last year and asked me to duplicate them in Plex. I did a bunch of work preparing to do just that, when he told me he wasn't sure he wanted to pay what it would take to finish the job. I've been waiting to hear back from him before I do anything else, but might go ahead and make a couple of sets to sell independantly and try to recoup my investment. I think I can do them for $149/pair...same price as my VR headlight covers, but don't want to invest anything more in the project unless I can sell at least three sets right off the bat.
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I purchased the mold for, and the rights to the Simpson Dash directly from Jim two or three years ago. I offer both style dashes and you can see more info about them at http://www.reactionresearch.com/dash.htm . That's a GREAT looking car. Anyone have contact info on that guy? I can't seem to find it in his gallery. I'd love to document it for the GTO Replica Register (http://www.gtorr.com) on which I hope to be doing some work this winter.
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Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to all of you on the fiberglass doors. Getting ready for and attending the SEMA trade show took a lot out of me. I'm trying to catch up. I snapped a photo of the mold of the inner panel mold and have posted it at http://www.reactionresearch.com/zglassdoor.html Someone asked me for a photo of the exterior. Of course, it looks just like stock, so I'm not sure what good that particular photo would do. However, if whoever wanted it can contact me and let me know why, I'll see what I can do! I still haven't worked out the pricing on the parts yet, but hope to do so in the next few weeks.
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I guess we have a new steak marinade to try!
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I'm interested in working with someone on this thread with regard to documenting the installation of one of my dashes. You can see both of them at: http://www.reactionresearch.com/dash.htm I have a set of instructions duplicated from those offered by Joe Alphabet for the Alpha One GTO. I'd like to compile some instructions for the Simpson style dash. I've sold a bunch of these dashes, but never had the opportunity to document an installation. Everyone seems to be able to install them just fine, but they all turn out a little different. I'd like to be able to offer a head start on how to do the installation whenever someone purchases a dash. If anyone is interested, please email me offline to discuss the proposal. Obviously, I'm interested in working with someone who a) will do a good job in a timely fashion and can show me some examples of previous work, has a digital camera and can take pictures along the way, and c) can provide understandable detail on the installation process. What I'm willing to offer is my cost on the dash. Thanks in advance!
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Being in AZ, it's been a while since i worked on a rusty Z:) However, as I recall a friend who worked at a Z wreckyard swore that he could get rusty bolts loose by turning them 1/4-turn TIGHT before loosening. Most penetrating oils made for loosening rusty bolts are largely kerosene. I've also heard good results from automatic transmission fluid (ATF). The acid that's probably working for the guys who have reported good results with Coke is Phosphoric Acid. I'm no chemist, but understand it to be one of the most powerful acids known to man. Guess that's why the dentist says it will rot your teeth. I once saw a list of things you could do with Coke that made it sound like an industrial-grade solvent...including cleaning grease off your driveway!
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Different angles of the GTU IMSA widebody kit (need pics)
John Washington replied to ToplessZ's topic in Body Kits & Paint
I appreciate the suggestion, Steve. It's a good idea particularly for the back. In the front, if you have to trim sheet metal vs. unbolting the fender and bolting on the replacement fiberglass the extra cost of the complete fender might turn out to be a wash. However, the overriding question is still economics; even if more folks want it that way, I still need to be able to sell eight or ten sets a year to make mold fabrication or purchase feasable. -
Different angles of the GTU IMSA widebody kit (need pics)
John Washington replied to ToplessZ's topic in Body Kits & Paint
Roger Edsinger was the guy from whom I got the 280YZ and 940Z tooling. He's in Campbell, CA. He didn't call them that, and I can't remember if he had some other designation or just called them "medium" and "wide." He was an SCCA GT2 guy. At one time I knew of at least four people who had tooling for the traditional IMSA kit, but don't know if they were "medium" or "wide," per Al's reference. If I were to pursue something like this, I'd try to buy the existing tooling first. To start with parts (thanks for the generous offer to loan them) is a difficult proposition. In order to do it right, the parts have to be mounted, checked to see if they need modification to make them fit right, braced up, prepped, and then molded. Very expensive proposition. Either way, I'd have to feel like I'd be able to sell more than two or three sets, and in a sense I'd be competing with products I already offer. At the time I made the decision to purchase Roger's tooling, the consensus seemed to be that the 280YZ was a better looking kit than the IMSA...particularly in person rather than in photos. So, how many of you want IMSA parts? -
where are you guys getting your wheel flares from
John Washington replied to a topic in Body Kits & Paint
How about this? http://www.reactionresearch.com/subtlez.html -
Different angles of the GTU IMSA widebody kit (need pics)
John Washington replied to ToplessZ's topic in Body Kits & Paint
Don't know if this will help, but I just spent a couple of hours updating my 280YZ page: http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yzgallery.html At least one car ran this same body in IMSA competition, but it may not be the traditional "IMSA body" for which you are searching. -
Mike Adair Dallas LS1 VR under construction
John Washington replied to John Washington's topic in Body Kits & Paint
Thanks for the info and the correction. Mike emailed me earlier today to correct that same info and I had not gotten around to posting the correction. I was wondering about that around the time I hit the "post reply" button. A good memory is not something for which I am known. I always say that it's not due to too few brain cells...it's just that I have all of them fully occupied! Here's the corrected info (some of which I'm sure every good HybridZ member already knows...all I know about V motors is that they should have twelve cylinders and should be swinging a four-bladed prop): It is an LS1. LS1's came in the last generation Camaros, Firebirds, and the C5 Vette. The Z06 has an LS6, which is an LS1 with cam heads, different valves and springs and a different intake. Mike's engine has a few of the LS6 components but not the heads and cam. He also has a T56 six-speed tranny. -
I can't remember if Mike has posted to Hybrid before, but he sent me some photos I just had to share. I've posted them at http://www.reactionresearch.com/gtorr/Gallery/mikeadair.html Mike is installing an LT6 (correction, "LS1"), and a 240SX multi-link rear suspension with 335 width rear tires! He actually sent me a CD maybe a month ago and I just had the opportunity to look at it yesterday. It contained over 500 images! He hasn't really even started the bodywork yet. I suggested that he organize the photos (which include motor mounts specific to that driveline, chassis reinforcing details, etc.) and sell them for $10 each. I'm sure he'd gladly give away the information (he's such a nice guy), but a) it would help cover his time, it would help defray the expenses, and c) that's way too many images to try to post anywhere! What do you guys think? Anyone interested?
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Somehow the bulletin board captures the close paragraph mark as part of the hyperlink, thus the hood vent link doesn't work. Here it is, corrected: http://www.reactionresearch.com/hoodvents.html
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Yes...and no. Check out the FAQs at http://www.reactionresearch.com/Faqs.htm and scroll down to "Fiberglass Specifications". Click the "more" link just under that paragraph for my take on carbon fiber. Carbon is definitely "stiffer," but the "stronger" part is a whole 'nother thing! Having said that, however, "If you've got the money, honey, I've got the time!" I can make some really nice carbon parts (witness the hood vents at http://www.reactionresearch.com/hoodvents.html) using clear gelcoat so the weave will show up.
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OK, I have THREE volunteers! Thanks, guys. I’ll be happy to work with you. It’s been a while since I made any of these parts, so I need to check with my glass guy to make certain of the cost. As I said in my earlier posting, I’ll be happy to let you have them for my cost…plus shipping of course. Mark, I don't know the year range of the latch off the top of my head, but I will look into it on Monday. One interesting thing that I forgot to mention: The inner panel completely encloses the interior door (as I alluded to in my description of the nut plates and the need to leave the panels unbonded) and eliminates the need for interior upholstry. Thanks again to all who responded!
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SEMA Show, Las Vegas 4-7 November
John Washington replied to John Washington's topic in Body Kits & Paint
I wish your car could be there, too! Those are the first photos I've seen with paint...very nice! You should take off and just come enjoy the show. I'm not going to be displaying anything...too expensive to get a booth at my current level of sales! -
I will be at the SEMA Show (http://www.semashow.com) in Las Vegas, 4-7 November. I am interested in meeting with any Z folks who live in the area, or who want travel there to attend the show. I think you can still purchase a pass online for $10 (you can just make up a company name for yourself if you don't already have one). Pasess are something like $50 if you register at the show. If you've never been, you will be amazed at all the car stuff there. It's a car guy/gal's dream come true! I'm trying to document Z body mods for some work I hope to be doing on my website this winter. Also, I'm driving up from Phoenix so can offer free, personal delivery on body parts and kits to anyone who wants to meet me there!
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I inherited a set of molds to make fiberglass doors when I bought out Origin. However, I do not have much knowledge about weight relative to the stock metal doors or bracing for side impact, etc. Also, in order to make them function like the stock doors, metal nut plates have to be captured inside to attach the hinges and latches. I did not get patterns or samples of these pieces and still need to engineer them. If some of you want to try these pieces out, I'll be happy to ship a set of unbonded (otherwise you can't get inside to position the nut plates) inner and outer panels at my cost (let's restrict this maybe to the first couple of guys who volunteer) in exchange for feedback and documentation that will help others. Otherwise, if someone needs fiberglass door skins for a tube-frame car, I can help!
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Partially-completed Velo Rossa For Sale!
John Washington replied to John Washington's topic in Body Kits & Paint
Just like on a Z...that's one of the hidden beauties of the kit. You are speaking of the rear struts, I presume. The only difference is that with the stock Z you can get at the top nuts vertically with an air impact wrench. With the VR tub in place, you have to use an air ratchet or the good old fashioned manual ratchet. Is this what you mean? -
That's interesing. One of my customers in PA has a friend who recently wound up with a couple of them. Maybe it's the same guy! Thanks for the info.
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Very informative! Thanks for posting the photos. That's a very complex part with all the bonded in diverters and other goodies. It would be fairly involved to reproduce, but I'm sure it's been well engineered for cooling, etc.
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I tried the search engine earlier without success, but will try again. Thanks for letting me know that it may have had problems.
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A customer pointed out to me that Jegs sells a tube frame for the Z. I've shared this information with a few other folks, but I'd like to know if any of you guys have ever used this frame or know anything about them. http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=4638&prmenbr=361 go to bottom of page for the Z.
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Sure, I'd love to have the photos. Thanks in advance!