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cafebaltimore

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About cafebaltimore

  • Birthday 07/03/1976

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  1. Wanted: (78-79) z-car Drum Brake Backing plates (unrusted, unbent)(or 70-71) Hi, I am looking for a really clean set of drum brake backing plates from a 78-79 zcar. I will remove all the paint and refinish so the paint doesn't matter as long as the sheet metal is perfect underneath. I would also be interested in the entire brake drum setup, but I think the rest of the pieces can be bought new. I guess I would really be interested in some never-been-rebuilt wheel cylinders, but that might be asking too much.I guess I would also be interested in the same thing from a 70-71, but my first choice is the later stuff. Anyone know why I cannot post a for sale ad (button said 'you cannot post')? Not that I want to sell anything right now, I just thought it was weird.
  2. Does anyone know if the 15x7 (or 15x6) VTO Lemans wheel will fit over the Modern Motorsports rear brake disc bracket and 240sx caliper. When I bought the kit I was told it might fit under the 14x6 American Racing Libre, but that turned out not to be the case so now I am wondering if it will work. Also, does anyone know if the VTO 15x6 is a near dimensional replica of the American Racing Lemans 15x6? Also, is the VTO label (on the exterior face/lip) a sticker or is it cast in the mold? American Racing, BBS, and all others I can think of place the molded label on the inside so I can't imagine they would cast it into a visible exterior surface. Thanks,
  3. Hi, Series I 240z 86-88 300ZX R200 CLSD with finned cover RT Mount front diff mount w/ poly mount Modern MotorSports Rear Cross Brace Support purchased separately from the R200/R230 Viscous Differential Mounting package I have not seen this covered and if I missed it I apologize. I have seen a lot of posts where people say to install an 86-88 300ZX CLSD into a 240z you can use an R200 Mustache Bar. I am not sure if R200 MB will work when using a smooth R200 diff cover, but I am fairly certain from my photos below that it will does not work well with the finned cover. I believe that the proper Mustache Bar to use will be from a 72 240z. This mustache bar is lighter in weight and will require drilling of the two center holes so they will fit over the 0.565" collar on the finned R200 differential. I had a 72 mustache bar handy and held it up underneath the existing one in the picture and it appears the mating faces of the bar and the finned cover will be coincident to each other, as opposed to the big gap I have now (with the R200 Mustache Bar). If I tighten the mustache bar to the finned diff cover, the mustache bar will bend. Then the mustache bar hits the Link Mount Brace (small bend facing forward as per TM). This was the basis for giving up on the R200 Mustache Bar and starting over with a 72 mustache bar. I will report my results. I can report that the Modern MotorSports Rear Cross Brace works perfectly with this setup. I did not measure but it looks like an inch of space to the differential. Thanks for reading.
  4. Hi, I am looking for a set of quick steering knuckles. Please let me know if you have a set you are willing to sell. Thanks, Jeff
  5. Are you certain of your last statement about there being a top and bottom portion of the bushing? All 4 inner diameters are the same on my bushings. If the IDs were tapered, the inner sleeve would have to be tapered and that does not make sense. Unless the sleeve is shorter than the assembled bushing height by the height of the taper.
  6. I believe I am missing hardened steel inner sleeves for my mustache bar from my master bushing kit manufactured by Energy Suspension. I will call and get them to send them to me. I am anticipating a cylindrical sleeve. Does the sleeve go up the bolt until it bottoms out (at beginning of taper)? Is the only purpose of the sleeve to center the urethane bushing? Or does it determine the amount the urethane should crush? How tight is the sleeve ID to the non-tapered part of the bolt? This tolerance will determine where the sleeve stops going up in relation to the bushing halves. At this position, there should be an optimal distance between bottom of the sleeve and the bottom of the lower bushing shell. I figure the sleeve should not protrude, but instead should be recessed by the distance you want the bushing to crush. The sleeve length may need to be shortened. Is this what others have done? Thanks
  7. ALL TORQUE PLATES SHOULD BE STEEL. This is a very interesting thread. I decided to ask my friend from the local Harley shop and now I have the definitive answer to this question about why the torque plate SHOULD BE STEEL. My friend Adam wrote; look up the dimensional stability values of cast aluminum, and then steel. then look up the stability values of billet aluminum (6061). you can't recreate the aluminum head casting if you bore a giant hole in it, so using cast aluminum is out of the question, unless it's super thick. The error in your mind is in your thoughts about the cylinder head, Cast aluminum is NOT malleable. Billet aluminum is very malleable. that's why heads crack, they have very high stability, but very low yield strength. they either take the force, or crack, nothing in between. a billet aluminum plate has a low dimensional stability (flexy), but a high yield strength (take a lot to break). In this case, steel is much closer to the deflection of the cylinder head than aluminum. overall, yield strength plays little importance in this, it's all about dimensional stability. end quote Something a lot of people are also missing in the "Plate for Hone, Bore, or both" is the quality of the equipment being used. Here is the difference. Hillbilly Hone: Attaches to a drill Professional Hone: Requires 3-phase power to your building and cost $40,000 or so. Dave Rebello (guessing) would own one of these. If you are using a hillbilly hone, then you need to be close (to the final hole diameter) when boring. Whether or when to use a torque plate is something others can discuss. If you have a professional hone you bore the holes oversized and finish with the hone. Any shop that has a professional hone will probably build a torque plate out of principal. I doubt they would use it for boring. The engine was (99.99% sure) honed to size with a very expensive hone when first manufactured. Unless you are experiencing a problem from your bottom end, you will probably make your engine geometry worse by a no plate/hillbilly hone rebuild. It takes a lot of money and time to recreate the factory engine machine specification. D.L. Potter using water jackets for hot water is very trick. Monitoring the heat of the block whilst honing will suffice.
  8. Thanks Pete, I had wondered that myself. So in the stock design, that would mean the center collar of the bushing is locked in place. The rubber section is fixed to the inner and outer metal cylinders and allowed to rotate slightly by means of two holes in the rubber. The outer metal cylinder of the stock bushing was locked in place inside the hole in the control arm. I have to believe that is meant to be fixed. Where is the front control arm free to rotate in the stock setup? Is it only from the two holes in the injection molded part of the stock bush? Should the Energy Suspension Bushing (2.416" LG) be wider than the outermost bush surfaces (2.456" LG) when the bushings are firmly pressed into the control arm? Would it be better to remove material from the front or rear side (respective to control arm and driver) of the ES Bush? Thanks again,
  9. I am measuring a 0.017" for the Front Control Arm Bolt to ES Bush Sleeve Clearance. Is this excessive? The collar on the bolt measures 13.95mm which makes me think the design intent was for the ID of the bush sleeve to be 14.00mm.
  10. Hi, Everything I have ever seen about replacing the inboard rear control arm bushings has said to remove the sleeve on the stock bushing. The instructions say to reuse the inner sleeve and bushing will actually fit properly when used with the stock inner sleeve. Unfortunately 3 are long gone and one was remove by abrasion. I am using a 1974-1978 Energy Suspension Master Bushing Kit on the recommendation of Modern Motorsports. I have an R200 CLSD, and 280z control arms on a 1971 Series I 240z. It is not a big deal to resolve (unless I need to turn it to an unusual ID or OD), but I want to solve the mystery. Thanks, Jeff
  11. Does anyone know what manifold this is? http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=10681&d=1228314457 (pic was pulled from a current classified ad)
  12. On Post #10 look at the first picture; If you put a 260z Type B transmission into a 1970 240z (that had type A) the shifter ends up moving forward (most people trim hole for shifter). If you put a Type A 240z transmission into a 260z, why didn't the shifter end up moving towards the rear? Do I have something backwards?
  13. It is not a competition gearbox, but a Non-US 5-speed. Pretty much the same thing as the later ZX tranny but the stick-shifter sticks up further back on the transmission. http://www2.zhome.com:81/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html
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