Spooky_Intentions

All im looking for at this time is 7 inch round headlight housings to fit D2 projector or a really easily modified 7 inch round housing. We are building a set of halo HID headlights.

Yeah they are, I'm doing something custom and just looking for recommendations on the 7 inch housing rather than a plug and play hid solution.

Hey everyone, looking to build some HIDs but unsure which housing to purchase. Does anyone have recommendations?

Hey everyone I'm looking for an oil and water cooled t3 turbo from an 84 to 87 300zx. Let me know if you have one and how much to get it shipped to my door. Zip code 85143.

Alright guys, i got 2 data logs. 1 is from cold start all the way to warm(had to tap the gas a few times to keep it alive and it still died a couple times but closer to the end you see the idle issue i was talking about) the other is just regular idle(with miss fires) after the car was warmed. 2018-03-30_10.20.59.msl 2018-03-30_10.25.57.msl

Thanks a lot guys. I'll be trying a cold start tomorrow and try to get a data log of it to upload

I'll look up a video on how to make a data log and get it logged for you guys

I have not added an IAC quite yet its on the list, so I will try to provide as much info as i can. Any kind of remote help for my tune would be greatly appreciated as the guy really did a poor job and it ran worse after i got it than when i first brought it to him L28Et 440cc injectors intercooler t3t4 turbo 240sx throttle body and TPS VR sensor and trigger wheel greddy bov no IAC quite yet this idle will happen and then die until about 120 degrees and then it will idle normal. Previously before the "tune" it would idle low and want to die but not this weird tick that its been doing. CurrentTune.msq

Hey everyone. We had the car running before bringing it to the tuner and it would cold idle a little a bit low on cold start up for a bit. However, after bringing the car back from the tuner i have a very strange cold idle issue. Please take a look at the youtube video link because im honestly not sure how to describe it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am very unhappy with the work the "tuner" did on the car and will end up having to bring it to someone else but i would like to get this resolved before hand. Any ideas why this happens? L28ET running off a VR sensor with MS2

Hey everyone, just finished a swap and took the car to the tuner, clutch slipping badly at about 13psi and looks like I need a better clutch. After the expense I've put into everything else I'm running low on funds and looking for something that will work but may not need to be a permanent solution. Engine info: L28et 440cc injectors Walbro 391 fuel pump Jsk fuel rail Custom intake manifold T3t4 freshly rebuilt turbo Megasquirt 2 Intercooler Freddy bov(fake greedy) Tuner was getting about 13psi of boost before the clutch started slipping at 210hp 266tq. I'm looking for a cheap replacement that isn't 6 Puck just for the time being. Anyone have low cost recommendations for 300hp 300tq ebay clutches? Any recommendation welcome, I know I shouldn't skimp here I just don't have the funds left in the build since I didn't factor this lol.

Hey Old Andy! I was just taking a look over your build and it looks great. Mind if i ask what pillar pod you modified to fit the z? thanks so much!

Hey everyone, I am using a VR sensor and trigger wheel with my megasquirt ECU. I was hoping someone could answer my question regarding this set up. I currently have the VR sensor mounted near the bottom of the trigger wheel. I was reading up that the sensor needs to be about 5-7 teeth BTDC. I was unable to find a good mount online to put it at the timing mark mount, can I just bring the engine to TDC and rotate the trigger wheel accordingly? Any answers or information would be greatly appreciated. I tried the search function but wasnt finding an exact answer to this particular issue. Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, I have AC in my car and im looking to keep it in tact. The L28ET i picked up came with a mount in place of where the compressor mounts for my hall effect sensor. Any of you guys running AC with a hall effect? How did you mount yours? I would love to get some input! Thanks in advance.

Thanks man!

I love all of the LED upgrades! I would really like to learn how to wire that kind of thing myself. Where did you get those nifty center console webbed holding things? Looks like a great place to put maps or phones etc.

Hey everyone, sorry that i have not updated this thread. The issue in the end was that my oil pump was in fact 1 tooth off! It looked to be more set to the 11 oclock position rather than the 11:25. Thank you all for your help!

Sorry to hear that, this is a most frustrating experience. I went off of "pointing at the hole" by a friends recommendation so i think my oil pump may not be situated properly. I will be checking that as well. I wish you luck!

VERY interesting, mine points closer to the left side of the hole rather than the right! This may be something to adjust and try out tonight!

Hmm interesting, if i recall correctly it pointed to the #1 cylinder but definitely something i didnt double, triple, quadruple check like other things. I will take a look at that tonight when i get off work and report back! Thanks guys.

I see, i had an NA engine in there before hand with stock set up, timed out just fine. This engine is the dished piston F54 with a P90 but im running stock size NA injectors, stock wiring, stock NA distributor, stock EFI everything and ECU for NA application. Timing light was zero'd out

Timing light set on the 1st plug wire, closest to the front of the engine. When i turn the distributor cap to 10 degrees it idles poorly and revs very sluggishly. Setting it "by ear" where it sounds the most healthy by idle revs and throttle response puts me to about the middle of my adjusting bracket and that puts me at about 30 degrees. The timing light is in good working order, tested it on a few other vehicles to try and remove that from the equation as well.

Hey everyone, recently swapped in an L28ET into my 78 280Z that is currently installed as an NA until my megasquirt is ready. Im running into a strange timing issue. My oil pump is installed properly with the shaft pointing to the top distributor bolt hole, my cam sprocket is set properly per service manual, wires are plugged into the distributor cap in the correct firing order, engine set to top dead center on the first cylinder and the timing marks lined up on the crank pulley. When i run the timing light i have to turn the distributor cap so far counter clockwise that the cap is no longer in the adjustment bracket when i have it set to 10 degrees. If timing by ear and what the car runs well at, im at about 30 degrees. I know its a bit premature, i dont have any photos ready for this yet but i was hoping someone may have some insight as to what could be a potential area as to why my timing shows SO far off.

I cant really help out with links or anything but I just wanted to drop a line saying i think its funny that I have a '78 280Z and just picked up an '81 L28ET lol. Good luck man

Good question, the intake looks like its in the stock placement, are you relocating it?

This page is amazing! Great job on the build, i just went and read all 18 pages from start to finish hahaha. I love the father son bonding you ended up getting while nearing completion with this project.