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Found 13 results

  1. Hey everyone, recently swapped in an L28ET into my 78 280Z that is currently installed as an NA until my megasquirt is ready. Im running into a strange timing issue. My oil pump is installed properly with the shaft pointing to the top distributor bolt hole, my cam sprocket is set properly per service manual, wires are plugged into the distributor cap in the correct firing order, engine set to top dead center on the first cylinder and the timing marks lined up on the crank pulley. When i run the timing light i have to turn the distributor cap so far counter clockwise that the cap is no l
  2. I while back I took my car, (280z) to a dyno the result, (discussed in separate thread,http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127636-thoughts-on-my-dyno-result-280z-triple-webers/?hl=%2Bdyno+%2Bresult I contined the investigation regarding the strange figures. I surely have jetting isusue, I however also discovered that my cam was way to retarded. After several measurements with degree wheel and indicator clock I decided to move the cam one notch forward. After this the measurements look quit ok, would probably be a even better with adjustable cam sprocket After advancing the cam
  3. I´m right now on the final stage of my complete engine rebuild. Before engine start I´m double checking the timing alignment. I however seem to miss the V shape mark on the sprocket(aftermarket OSK) which makes me a bit hesitant. Below pictures show the alignment as i sits right now, can anyone please feedback whether it´s aligned or not. Car is a 280z -75. Chain, cam and sprocket are new and the the marking down at the crank is aligned.
  4. Hello, Can anyone smarter than me take a look at this tune and tell me what is wrong with it for my build. I have a pretty much stock 82 l28et stock injectors DIY wiring harness i put together. iac sensor 240sx 65mm throttle body and tps DIY trigger wheel single coil lc2 wideband (not wired to ms2) walbro 255 lph inline fuel pump no other sensors are connected to the MS2 Ive been messing around with some other peoples tunes and came up with this. This started the previously warm car yesterday and i set my timing on the car with this project. its set to around 19 btd
  5. My motor has always had a lite bit of a rattle but it has gotten worse to the point it scares me. Noise comes from the top of the front cover. Car runs great. Does this soundick like an upper guide or the lower tensioner?
  6. Edit - First, thank you for any replies and to anyone who read my original post. I am learning this with the FSM and two repair manuals. I used a second set of eyes to go out and triple-check that I hadn't made a bunch of mistakes. The first cylinder gets a compression reading on the gauge at about the 45 mark (if it existed). When bringing the pulley mark to zero with the help from my second eyes, I get a completely different and much less dramatic looking scenario. The timing mark on the chain is a V (sitting at 2) versus a shiny which I couldn't find before. This
  7. I'll stick this here knowing the subject has probably been beat to death already. Recently rebuilt mikuni 44phh carbs and added a Schneider 270-80f cam to E88 head, 2.6l block. Fuel pressure is at 3.5psi. The car started a little rough with a lot of backfire through the carb. I thought of the dizzy being 180 out but confirmed it wasn't. I have start to play around with advancing the timing. Initially it was idling at 0deg and rough, 2-3000rpm would hit 15-18deg and smooth out the roughness. Fuel pressure is at 3.5psi. I currently have the: Mikuni pilot screws
  8. Hello all. So I recently picked up a new 1976 280Z Non CA. It has a few mods to it. Stage III schneider cam, headers, monza exhaust. Something failed on the EFI and the previous owner cracked open the AFM and tweaked a bit. This is causing the engine to run extremely rich. The coolant temp sensor is dead also. I've decided after seeing many split wires and splicing that it would be best to start new with Megasquirt. I plan on purchasing the MS2 3.57 assembled unit and wiring harness. I know this question strays from the normal. I know the option of going to a 82-83 dizzy. As of right no
  9. Hello fellow Z Enthusiasts, I'm at my whits end here from this Darn Datsun. I've got a 1983 Datsun Maxima, and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get this thing running properly. A-little backstory on the car; The car used to belong to my grandfather, and when he passed away my father inherited it and drove this old girl everyday for 5 years to work, All the way up until the point the engine slipped its timing gear, then it sat for another 7 years until I was old enough to understand cars and not hurt myself while working in the garage. After purchasing a new timing chai
  10. So I finished a rebuild of a 1982 280zx Engine recently and put 4-screw SU carbs on it and a stock exhaust manifold with 2 inch pipe and a turbo exhaust back so I can drive it daily with out waking up the neighbors. This is going to be pretty long so go ahead and ask questions and thanks for reading. Now to my problem/question: Driving now during break-in the engine makes a bothersome sound for daily driving that has not gone away in 200+ miles of driving. It has a very lopey and gurgle/burble exhaust and rev characteristic that sounds like a car with a cam that is way too hot for the
  11. Does this look right or is it a tooth off?
  12. Hello all, I'm a long time lurker here and am having issues with my fresh (600miles) rebuild. The engine is an 83 L28ET, using MS1 V3.0 with spark control, Holset HE351 turbo, mild turbo regrind cam, forged pistons (~8.5 to 1 CR). I did a WOT throttle run to redline testing a higher boost setting while datalogging, near redline (6k in my case) the car sputtered, missed, and backfired badly. I got off the throttle, coasted to a stop, engine is dead. Cranked it back up, only ran while applying throttle. Still backfiring and sputtering, I pulled over and got the car towed home.
  13. So i'm in the process of building my z and when I took the head off I was an idiot and didn't check to make sure the bottom end was timed and now that i'm timing the car I ran across a problem. The head and cam sprocket both have marks so that is in the correct timing position but the bottom end has no markings. The sprocket for the crank has a punch hole but there is nothing on the block to line it up with so now i'm kind of stuck. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys
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