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kerrys914

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Posts posted by kerrys914

    GC 280Z is now too low.

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Wrong.

     

    Raising the collar to preload the spring will raise the car.

     

    The height of the car is dependent upon the distance between the attachment of the top of the strut to the chassis and the spring collar below the spring. For a given weight, the spring will compress the same, but if the bottom of the spring is raised then the whole car will be raised.

    Doesn't this only apply to before any preload is added to the spring. I can see that.

    GC 280Z is now too low.

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Thanks guys. I guess the part I am getting confused on is  this:

     

    It seems like adding preload doesn't raise the car up at rest. It just compresses the spring before the car's weight is applied. In the examples above:

     

    0" of preload and 2.4" of compression due to the car's weight is 2.4" of total compression at rest

    OR

    1" of preload and 1.4" of compression due to the car's weight is still 2.4" of total compression at rest.

    OR

    2.4" of preload compression and 0" of compression due to the car's weight is still 2.4" of total compression at rest.

     

    In all examples above the car's height will be the same at rest.....correct? So preload doesn't change the ride height

    GC 280Z is now too low.

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Let me know if this is right.

     

    Once the threaded collar nut reaches the point of zero (0) spring preload, the collar nut position no longer raises the car any higher by raising the collar nuts position (compressing the spring). The opposite is also true, the only way a car is lowered is to have the threaded collar nut below the point of zero (0) spring preload.

     

    To add more height (after zero preload is reached) the top mounting point of the strut (where it attaches to the car) needs to be changed by adding a spacer or other means.

     

    Thanks and I hope I am explaining this well..

    280z coilovers

    in Parts Wanted

    Posted · Edited by kerrys914

    I have some coilover pieces left from my recent 280z conversion. They have zero miles on them if you are a DIY kind of guy this might be something you can use and complete (need to buy some parts)

     

    I have:

    4 threaded Collars

    4 springs (175#/150#) 2.5" dia

     

    $175 for all

     

    You need to source out the missing parts but they are available

    GC 280Z is now too low.

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    The 10 " inch, 150 lb/in springs may cause you a problem as well.  The sprung weight per corner is around 600 lbs, so the springs will compress about 4 inches with the car sitting in the driveway.   When you hit a bump you will try to compress the springs an additional 2 - 4 inches.  Unfortunately, the springs will stack solid before you can get that much more travel.  

     

    The free length that you need is related to the rate of the spring. The stock springs were about 100 lb/in and had a free length of about 15 inches.  When I ran my car on the street, i had 250 lb/in springs with a free length of 10 inches on the rear and 200 lb/in springs with a free length of 12 inches on the front.

     

    Currently, I run 500 lb/in on the front and 400 lb/in on the rear with an 8 inch free length (no longer a street car).

     

    If you want to stay with 150 lb/in springs, you should try for at least a 12 inch free length.

     

    BTW,  I have my old 250 lb/in springs (2.5 diameter coil-overs) for sale cheap.

     

    Thanks.. very interesting. I bought my setup off someone and I guess I know why I got a good deal  :(

     

    I am looking at 225# front / 250# rear with new longer collars. I hope this will get me sitting where I need to.

     

    Any idea who (what application)  would use 150#/175# springs? I would love to sell those but am not sure who would use them.

    GC 280Z is now too low.

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I'm at a 23 inch tire, 225/45/15. That was only because the rivals were only made in that size, otherwise the tire is too small.

     

    Add stiffer springs as suggested if your struts can handle them and you can lift the car up a bit. Right now rolling the spring up via the collar is only putting in pre-load. If you do get to the point where you have more pre-load then is weighted on the corner (lifting the car up) you basically are no longer riding on the springs.

     

    150lb is also pretty soft, Gabe from TTT says his kits at the low end starts at 200F,225R. Even my tokico springs for the 280z were at 185F,200R. 

     

    I thought the threaded collar was intended to raise and lower the car. Sounds like you are saying the collars are not designed to lift the car up by tightening things up. 

     

    Thanks for clarifying this for me ;)

    GC 280Z is now too low.

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Thanks guys.. Well I have new collars coming which are 6" long (I have 4" long collars now).

     

    I am looking into new springs too to replace my 150#/175# setup.

     

    I only removed about 1.5" from each strut so I believe my strut tube length is fine and hope the issue is due to the soft springs, short threaded collar, and small OD of the tires (23")

     

    The other thing which I think is contributing is I removed the stock insulators from my setup (I am running camber plates). I ask around and everyone said I did not need to compensate for this by moving the collar perch up.In hindsight, I think I should have raised the collar 1-2" to account for the removal of the insulators. 

    Sectioning struts on a 240z vs a 280z

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I sectioned my 280z and based on what I did it looks like you did cut too much out of the rear. I cut about 1.5" out of the fronts and the rears (strut tubes) as I am using the same strut cartridge (MR2) all the way around.

     

    The 280z rear strut tube is much longer then the front so to compensate for this I added a 3" (about) aluminum spacer which goes into the strut tube first. This makes the inside dim of the rear strut tube the same as the front strut tubes (since I have the same cartridges in the front and rear).

     

    If you have the tube pieces you cut out of the front and rear you could reweld them back in????

     

    kerry.herr@gmail.com if you need any help

    GC 280Z is now too low.

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted · Edited by kerrys914

    Why are you at 23.1"?  Stock rolling diameter is 24.7".

     

    You have 15x9's, there are plenty of tires that will get you up to 25-in., you are just going to have to have some sidewall.  Sounds like you are running a stretched setup (23.1" rolling diameter).

     

    215 60 R15s puts you are 25.1 and there are 22 tires list on Tire Rack.

     

    Thanks, so the 60 series isn't too tall?

    GC 280Z is now too low.

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Not sure what is going on. I sectioned the struts per this site (about 1.5" taken out), 6" collars, 10" 150# springs.

     

    To raise the body of the car I am threading the collar on the sleeve UP (which compresses the spring) which lifts the body of the car. Unfortunately I have the collar 6" + up from the perch and the car's frame rail is still too low (1.5" or so above the ground). The front control arm is below parallel (which I read is bad)

     

    If I use a jack to raise the car up the height I think is good the wheel well gap gets too big.

     

    Confused :(

     

     

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