kerrys914

Ben, you around?

Thanks Nismopick... The wiring diagram is not 100% complete. There is another diagram out there which shows the two wires (ECCS & 12v switched power) being conencted. The ground noted in the FSM is actually the chassis ground, not a wired ground as I thought. Cheers

Can someone confirm the coil wiring? I am doing one final check of my harness....The wiring diagram in the (81 and 82) FSM has the 2 prong connector at the coil ignitor going to the ECCS (yellow) and the other going to ground. The post above states this Black/white wire need to go to a switched 12v (not ground). Just curious as I am not seeing this in the FSM. Thanks

email me I have a 280z I am parting out. kerry.herr@gmail.com

Anyone know Ben? I have similar jumpers on a MS1

Links appear to be broken

Thanks. Correct. AllI really need is the engine and related ECU. I am searching on here for additional info but it swaping the parts over from s complete car seems doable. The car with a bad engine (ran low on oil do to a failure of some kind) car has been sitting for 8 years and it 100% complete. Looks like the car had some good parts to sell off. Wheels, T-tops..etc The other car with the good engine is being hacked for a body kit. Body is junk but drivetrain is reported to be good. I was also thinking maybe I could rebuild the bad "locked up" engine while running my current engine is running with the turbo parts. Big difference in price too, 2x the cost. Thanks again.

I have two options in front of me for my L28et swap: 1. Complete car with a locked up engine but car is in okay shape ~ $600 2. Running engine but car is crap ~$1100 With engine #1, I would take the needed L28et parts off the bad engine and put them on my L28 NA engine which is running well now and sell off the unused 280zx car parts With engine #2, I would put the whole engine in my car as the swap. Not sure I could sell the unused car parts off due to the pool condition. Thoughts and thanks

Thanks.. I just messaged him.. Hope he will ship it

Looking to do a swap into a '78. Let me know if you have an engine or whole car for sale with a good running L28et Cheers

Very cool.. Keep me posted once you get ready to start shipping. kerrys914atyahoo.com

My gauge reads 3/4 of a tank but my low level light is still on. Thoughts? I am going to pull the sending unit this weekend but I hope it is another problem

I got one from the local auto parts store for my '78. I believe it is the same as the early zx oil sending units (two prong senders)

Just to close this issue out.. I ended up adding 1" alum. spacers between the T3 camber plate and Z body. I would recommend only cutting the rear struct .75" rather then 1.5" (which is typical) if you plan on using T3 (possibly other's) camber plates. I also added spring perch/collar needle bearings to aid in the adjustment of the the collar. Cheers

WOW.. Those look awesome...

I would caution to cutting too much off. I added a 1" alum. spacer to the rear of my 280z. I only removed 1.5" from the rear and was unable to get enough height from my GC coilovers. I attributed this to using T3 camber plates and losing the added height from the stock insulators. I think .75" is more then enough to take out of the struts and still get full travel, unless you are going for a low car. With 1.5" removed and 24" dia tires, the rocker panel seam was 5" above the ground at the highest setting and I could go as low as 4" (IIRC). I wanted to have about 6" at the rocker seam to make the car usable on the city streets, which I am now at with my spacers (with1-2 turns of preload) Just my observations from my car.. Best of luck

How are the 255/40-17 up front driving around a city and parking lots? I was think of 245/40 might be easier to maneuver but not sure how much or if the "looks" change much. Cheers

If you call him he might start making them.. I had to make my own from 1" Alum.

Any photos of your wheels with 225?

Would the stretch look weird on the front and not on the back? Would be great to see so photos? Maybe 245's all around

Thanks.. 17" rims are an option too. I will be buying tires (if the set doesn't have them) so I will entertain any wheel/tire combos which will fit a Z with coilovers and flares Thanks again guys

Getting ready to by some wheels and thought I would see if anyone was looking to change things up before I buy a set. kerry.herr@gmail.com Cheers

I am making a some 1" spacer to put between my T3 camber plates and car body. Same basic shape as the T3 camber plates. The issue on mine (280z) is when the stock insulator was removed to install the camber plates I lost about 1" of height. T3 can make these (they make them for other cars, just not the Z). He said if he gets more requests he can make them. I am supersized more people haven't had this issue. I only removed 1.5" from the rear and now think I should have only removed about .75" since I knew I was using camber plates.

Thanks... kerry.herr@gmail.com

I am looking at 225/50-16 in the front and 245/50-16 in the rear on 16x9 et-15 (all corners) I have a flared car and am curious if I need run a 245/45-16 rather then a 245/50-16. The /45 is closer in diameter to the front 225/50 but the tire selection is better for the /50 tires. I have never ran different tires in the rear before so sorry for the newbie question. Thanks