jkube
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Posts posted by jkube
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If I remember correctly for the basic MS you can set the EGO parameters to shut it off completely, allowing for better tuning. I think there is a paragraph about this in the Megamanual
Should be the same for MSS
I guess you could set the software to shut the EGO off and just not install a sensor.
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Hi,
Saw your pics of the rocker install. Nice work.
I have had to do 3 z's in the same manner. Just a word of caution. The aftermarket rockers sometimes dont seem to sit quite right W.R.T. the door skin.
It seems the rocker sometimes sits inwards a bit, so then the surface f the door skin looks to sit proud of the rocker.
Double check the rocker postion before final welding. If you find the rocker doesnt sit at the same level as the door skin you may have to "Caress" the inner rocker panel to move the rocker outwards.
Also do a check with the the door rubber in place when you trial fit. The door rubber can throw the fit off.
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Hey. I had the same problem. Fixed it when I re-installed those black bump rubbers on the sides of the fenders. They sit between the inner lip and hood.
Turns out the hood was shaking side to side over bumps enough to release the hood latch.
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If your talking about the 280zx TPS. the answer would be - No, you cant use it.
Megasquirt need a varying resistor type of TPS whereas the stock unit is like an on/off switch.
I found the best one to use is from the 24SX. Only needs a small adapter bracket and it works well .
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NICE JOB !! Very impressive work.
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I've been using the Walbro 255 ltr pump in both the N/A 240 and turbo 280 with no fuel feed problems.
For mounting on ther 280z I secured the pump to the same bracket as the stock location and have the pump oriented vertically.
For the 240z I fabbed a similar bracket than the 280z and mounted the pump in a horizontal postion
Both work equally well.
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Thats really odd, because I have a 300zx (Z31) turbo ready to go into my 240z and the wastegate valve is on the body , not on the down pipe.
The downpipe I have is a 45 deg unit as well. Cant remember what year z31 its from.
Are you going to install it into a 280zx or 240z? It seems to me that if you can physically get it to fit into the car, you should be good to go.
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Just a thought, but maybe since the coolant temp isnt being monitored, could the ECU think the car is always stone cold, and be dumping a ton of fuel into the motor?
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I have the alternate to Phantom grip ( called Retrofit) installed in my 240 N/A and 280 Turbo.
Its very similar to phantom grip unit but has some kind of friction coating where the device contacts the gears. Sort of like a clutch disc material. I believe the Phantom grip unit doesnt have this.
The Retrofit units operate in both cars very well. Nice smooth activation, and seems to be holding the break-out force over the year that they have been installed.
I like the fact that when it rains on a lapping day I dont have huge understeer/oversteer problems on the corners. and yet when its dry the unit keeps both tires driving the power without slip.
I used to change the diffs over from open to welded depending on the weather conditions,. I'm getting to old for that now.
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I bought the 3 pc rear spoiler from him, and no problems.
He delivered on time (actually I picked up from him) quality is good, but I always expect to do a little trimming fo fit.
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Hey Datsunlover,
This might be a little late for your plans, but I am running a 2.5" exhaust ( 3" at the bends) with a Canadian Tire "Raptor" muffler.
You may laugh but I've found it to be a very good flowing muffler. Reasonably quiet too!!. Motor runs strong to about 6500 RPMs and at no time does it feel like the exhaust system is holding it back.
Nice part is the cost is about $39 CDN and its been on the car for about 8 years ( summer driving, of course)
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Keep us informed on how it works out.
I have an N/A L28 thats getting a turbo in it this spring. The only difference is that I have Megasquirt to control fuel and Crane ignition with boost timing retard control running the ignition.
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I did the same, used "alternating" and grouped 123 & 456.
Seems to work great for me on both cars.
As for resistors, the 240 N/A car has the ohmite resistors as called for in MS write up. I placed them on the passenger side shock tower. Right now they are exposed to engine bay. In the spring I'll probably enclose them.
When I did the 280 turbo I used the resistor pack that came with the 280z. Its located near the clutch slave. Thats where I left it.
Both cars run well and there has not been any problems with the MS components running hot.
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I think what JohnC is saying is that moving the pivot point will correct the bumpsteer problem these cars have, even if you dont lower the car you'll notice a difference on the highway. Over bumps and in cross winds the car will track better.
I agree with JohnC that you should do it since your into fixing the pivot hole anyways.
Dropping off the cross member while supporting the motor works well. That way you can work on the bench to drill in the new holes and weld in some new spacer washers.
Picture: http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Brians240z/Dec02pics/Image02.jpg
http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Brians240z/Dec02pics/Image04.jpg
What I do is redrill 5/8" dia holes exactly 3/4" above ( Vertically straight up from) the existing holes. File the holes out a bit to allow the bolts to pass through. I think the bolts are just a bit bigger in diameter than 5/8"
Then chisel off the old spacer washers form the existing holes, and clean the burrs off the remaining spot welds.
Next get some new washers that are for a 5/8" bolt and file them out too so the bolts will pass through. These will be the spacer washers for the new holes.
The control arms will have to be ground down around the area where the pivot bolt passes through. This is because now that the pivot point is moved up the arm will come into contact with the cross member. If you dont understand, dont worry you'll see what I mean when you try to pre-assemble the 2 parts together.
So if you have been able to get the preassembly finished and there is no interference when moving the control arm up and down, you can install the new spacer washers onto the cross member and weld them to cross member.
Depending on the thickness of the new washers you may have to widen the gap between the washers so the control arm can fit in. I use a heavy hammer and a 1/2" diameter bar and bang out the cross memmber a bit to widen the gap.
Then it is a matter of reassembling all the parts back onto the car. The only alignment needed is to correct the toe-in.
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The bump steer problem should be fixed on these cars even if you dont drop the ride height at all.
What I have prefered to do is relocate the inner control arm pivot point. This requires a bit of fab work but the improvement is worth the work.
I usually relocate the pivot point 3/4" higher in the cross member ( have to grind down the arms to clear the cross member)
The stability of the car is improved dramatically at high speed, no more darting and weaving with the bumps in the road or crosswind, and the car remains stable during breaking and cornering.
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Since you hve replaced the flex lines, also check that these lines are tightened sufficiently.
What can happen is the flaring of the new flex line is not properly seated onto the steel line fitting, resulting in a "Bleed down". You may not notice fluid leaking at the connection, but look very closely and you might notice the line looks "wet" all the time.
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I always thought that the 14" rims wouldnt clear the 4x4 calipers and 300zx rotors, so I too bought 15" rims
I surprised myself last week when I tried it. My old 14" x 6-1/2 wide slotted rims fit over the calipers with a 10mm spacer. There was a lot of clearance around the outside, but I did notice that the rim had a slight interference to the caliper on the inner portion of the wheel, close to where the wheel mounting hub is.
It looks like if the spacer were approx 20mm thick then the rims would fit well.
Jeff
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Hi Nigel,
Is there something with the SDS that requires a correction factor to be put in place if you dont use the prescribed sensor?
I have the Megasquirt installed using the 280zx coolant sensor ( Megasquirt defualt is GM sensors), and I definately had to put in a correction factor for this.
Made the car run much better.
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Heavy85
I see your delima. The solution I had suggested is only if you are going to replace the rockers.
I can only think of this for your situation:
Try to bend back the flattened flange so it looks as original as possible. You're worried about the metal cracking. that is a possibility, but I think that if does its only because the metal is getting pretty rusty and thin.
For these you may to have a new section welded in, or if the metal still looks good the cracks can be welded together.
Fabricate a 16 gage steel L-shaped piece about 6-8" long ( 3/4 " flanges) Use sheet metal and form it into an L-shape. Dont take preformed angle iron. It just doest seem to work right. Maybe the metal is too thick
Weld it behind the rocker flange and on the floor. What this will do is give you 4 layers of metal on the flange, and also spreads out some of the load over the floor area. I've use dthis before on a race car and it worked well
Its similar to a weld pad on a roll cage, where the tubes meet the floor panels.
Some of the undercoating will have to be removed from the floor area so the welding can be done. Just recoate the are once its finished.
You wont see the add in piece from the side of the car.
I only have a picture of my zcar with the rocker off. I somehow never took a picture of the support flange that I made.
http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Brians240z/Oct04pics/000_0918%20copy.JPG
The piece should be postioned just under the door post. I've tried to point to the area where it goes.
Anyways, hope this helps
Jeff
PS - Ztard- You are not wrong. The places you've picked are the same ones I've always used. The only time I use the rockers is at a lapping day when I have to change tires or do some quick work on the brakes.
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Heavy85
I noticed the same thing on all the zcars I've restored. I also remember when I was a kid working at the local Datsun dealership (washing these cars) that even when they were brand new, I was told not to jack the cars up at the rockers becuase they were very weak there.
Now I am restoring a few of these cars and I see there is an inner sheet metal support piece located at the door post. It it sandwiched between the inner and outer rocker panels.
I have found that this panel rusts away first leaving little strength in the rocker to lift the car.
What I've started doing was installing a 14ga steel metal piece ( 6" wide with flanges) as a replacement. It protudes slightly beyond the lower lip of the rocker so that a jack will contact this support piece rather than the rocker panel, and it is welded to the top of the rocker as well.
This way all the wieght of the car is supported at the door post when you jack up the car
If you decide to change out the rockers I would suggest taking the time to do the same. You'll be happy that you did.
Jeff
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Chemicalblue,
I have the Megasquirt installed in an N/A 240 and into a turbo 280.
The system runs very well and is very tunable. I can say that any problems I have encountered are due to my errors in assembly or workmanship.
Both cars are not yet daily drivers (see previous statement) but I am building more trust with the system (or should I say my workmanship).
For both cars, I've done the following mods to install a F.I. system. This would probably be the same regardless of which system you choose.
1. Electric high presure fuel pump ( Walbro 255)
2. Larger fuel lines - 3/8" for fuel - 1/2" for return
3. Fuel pressure regulator - Aeromotive
4. Intake manifold for 280z or 280zx
5. Injectors from 280zxt
6. TPS from 240sx
7. IAT sensor from corvette LT1
8. 280zx coolant sensor ( I have ohms vs temp settings for this if you need it)
(*** VERY important to get this right, otherwise car will not run well***)
9. EGT sensor into the exhaust header
10. Welded on sump to bottom of 240 gas tank. Made a huge difference in acceleration when tank is 1/2 empty or less
11. 280z resistors to bring the ohms inline to specs for Megasquirt. Not using pulsewidth control
I used the relay board in both cars, a 280zx ignition system for the N/A 240, and a crane ignition system for the turbo 280. Megasquirt has shown no problems picking up a signal from either of these systems.
Here is a link to my web site. It has pictures of all the cars I'm working on.
There are some pictures of the engine bays showing the relay boards in place.
http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Mainpage_lethalzs.html
Hope this helps.
Jeff
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Sorry to tell you this BrandenZ, I had that problem too.
Its the turn signal assembly. The contacts in there are pitted from arching and have a bit of carbon on them
You can actually take that switch mechanism apart and lightly sand the contacts, but it doesnt last long.
The sanding takes away what little silver there was on the contact pads and the pitting and carbon comes back even quicker.
Best thing to do is get a replace assembly, either new one or a good used one.
Jeff
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Heres how I mounted my mirrors. They were a little tough to get the center post hole in the right spot so I could tighten the centre post, but it all worked out
http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Jeffs240z/Mirrorshot.jpg
I bought them from a local race car shop. One that deals in open wheel cars.
Jeff
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Hey Datsunlover
You can use 240z rear cartridges in the 280z rears too. I had to do this for my uncles Turbo car. You'll still have to make a spacer, but it looks like you were going to anyways.
Call Rick Scott of Brantford Nissan. He can get you Tokico cartridges.
My wife is going to the cottage next week end (Honey Harbour). I can pick them up from Rick and give them to her to bring up for you.
Jeff
Bad Damper?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
We have a couple of zcar racers up here, and most of these guys have experienced seperation of the dampers (even NEW ones)
The thought here is that the higher RPMs they are turning are causing the failures.
http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Mainpage_lethalzs.html