jkube
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Posts posted by jkube
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My theme is "Understated" with a hint of "Oh my god what was that green flash that just went by???""
So to achieve that affect:
- lowered enough to only get 1 finger between the wheel lip and rubber, 15" wheels, 215-50 x15 tires with the rubber out to fender lips.
- full air dam in front, 3 pc spoiler in the rear. bumpers painted to match car.
- headers, 2-1/2" diameter exhaust out to a free flow exhaust, not too loud but noticable when the power is put down.
-cammed for mid range, fuel injected, using Megasquirt for fuel control. Free flow air intake to get a bit of howl from the intake. electronic igntion
- full race seats so you can sit real low in the car.
http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Jeffs240z/240.jpg
jeff
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The corroded connector might be the problem, because I think the injectors are timed to open w.r.t. coil spark.
If the wiring to the ecu is one of the wires from the box on the side of the distributor, then the ECU may not know when to trigger the injectors because its not getting a signal from the coil.
Seems like a cheap thing to fix. Give it a try.
Jeff
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I am just in the middle of doing the same thing to my 240z. I already have the fuel injection system on the car and running.
- Motor is a N/A 2.8 litre motor with steel head gasket, Turbo head bolts.
- Fuel injection control is Megasquirt. It has the MAP sensor (vacum thngy) already builtin.
- Stock throttle body, using a TPS from a 91 240SX
- Turbo injectors
- Clutch is 2+2 with kevlar disc and increased pressure on pressure plate
- Ignition system is Crane HI6 with timing retard control ( I think this is what you are missing on your list. An ignition system that can retard the timing as boost increases)
- Oil pump is from Turbo motor
- Fuel pump is Walbro 255 ltr/hr
- Pressure regulator is Aeromotive
-Stock turbo exhaust manifold
- 300zx T28 turbo ( single turbo car type with water and oil cooling)
I know that I am going to have to keep the boost down and feed lots of fuel to the motor. I am trying to gain more torque in the car rather top end HP.
Hope this helps.
Jeff
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By any chance did you take the 12 volt switched power from any line close to the alternator.
I did this with my setup and the symptoms were similar to yours. It seems there is quite a dirty signal coming back through the alternator which affects the RPM and injector pulses. Mine would idle fine but as soon as I gave some gas (RPMs) the engine would run like crap. Oddly enough there were times it would run fine.
If you are suspicious that this might the reason, then find a switched line close to the fuse box.
Jeff
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Hope you guys can help with this, I am installing a 280zxt motor into my 240z and plan to use Megasquirt to run the fuel system.
My question is where do I install the Intake air temp sensor?
Do I put it into the freash air intake ( before the turbo) or into the J-pipe (before the throttle body).
Seems to me it should be the j-pipe, but I am unsure of this
thanks
Jeff
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Need your help to ID which car (or truck) that the high torque starters come from.
I did a search on this and was surprized that no one has mentioned it.
I mounted one of these into my z a while ago because the stock unit in the car was starting to give me problems. It was a spare from a parts car I bought.
This new one has improved the starting of the engine.
Now I'd like to put one into my uncle's zcar, but I cant seem to find any info as to which vehicle they came from.
Does anyone know???
thanks
Jeff
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Sorry, This was done with fiberglass glass. That part was done well.
What wasnt done is a coating over the bare metal under the spoiler . Its hard to tell when its all put back together and painted.
Jeff
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Heres why you dont want to mold in the spoiler
Jeff
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Here's my spoiler - 3 pc unit
Jeff
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Mike
I had same problem with my MS when trying to get it setup.
Your enrichment settings need some correcting, the car isnt getting any fuel after initial cranking
It sounds like you have the "cranking pulsewidths" close because the car fires instantly, check your "afterstart enrichment" settings. You might want to increase the enrichment %. Increase this number until the car keeps running.
A fuel pressure gage will come in handy to make sure you have correct pressure. I've been finding that some of my problems were from pressures too low and too high. But I been finding that if the pressures are close to stock ( 30 -40 PSI ) the will start. It just may not drive well
Also if the car is hard to start, double check a couple of spark plugs to see if there is too much fuel (or not enough), then adjust the cranking pulse width % and after start enrichment % until you can get the car started and running.
If the plugs are wet lower the % numbers and if they are dry then increase the % numbers.
Keep a spare set of plugs handy too. If you flood the motor, change the plugs right away, otherwise the car will either not start at all or run like #$!@@#.
You can then dry out the plugs later with fuel injection cleaner spray and use them again later
Hope this helps
Jeff
72 240z, L28 N/A with Fuel injection and MS, Walbro 255 lt/hr pump, Aeromotive pressure regulator, Turbo injectors.
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Mike
I had same problem with my MS when trying to get it setup.
Your enrichment settings need some correcting, the car isnt getting any fuel after initial cranking
It sounds like you have the "cranking pulsewidths" close because the car fires instantly, check your "afterstart enrichment" settings. You might want to increase the enrichment %. Increase this number until the car keeps running.
A fuel pressure gage will come in handy to make sure you have correct pressure. I've been finding that some of my problems were from pressures too low and too high. But I been finding that if the pressures are close to stock ( 30 -40 PSI ) the will start. It just may not drive well
Also if the car is hard to start, double check a couple of spark plugs to see if there is too much fuel (or not enough), then adjust the cranking pulse width % and after start enrichment % until you can get the car started and running.
If the plugs are wet lower the % numbers and if they are dry then increase the % numbers.
Keep a spare set of plugs handy too. If you flood the motor, change the plugs right away, otherwise the car will either not start at all or run like #$!@@#.
You can then dry out the plugs later with fuel injection cleaner spray and use them again later
Hope this helps
Jeff
72 240z, L28 N/A with Fuel injection and MS, Walbro 255 lt/hr pump, Aeromotive pressure regulator, Turbo injectors.
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I've bought several air dams and spoilers from "Showcars"and never had a problem with the quality.
Now I cant speak about the dlivery part, cause I always have gone to his shop to pickup the parts.
If any of you guys in the US want me to cooridinate a group buy, I'd be willing to do that for you !!
Jeff
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There is a place up here just Northwest of Toronto, Canada that makes them too.
Web site - http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html
Just got one for my Uncles 280z
Jeff
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I'm using a Dell P2 laptop with Windows 2000. Works well.
Jeff
72 240z - L28 - Fuel injected - headers - racer brown cam
Retrofit LSD.
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I had the same problem with my 72 240z . Found the problem to be the turn signal actuator.
I changed the assembly (Its 1/2 of the ignition system up by the steering wheel) and the signal worked again instantly.
When I took apart the old one and studied the contacts. One set was too coroded to allow the power to pass through.
jeff
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I have a set of SPA formula car mirrors on both sides.
Flat mirror on the drivers side and convex on the passenger side
Jeff
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I'm about to do a similar turbo upgrade to my N/A motor.
I'm currently using an 83 N/A motor with an N42 head, and 2mm steel head gasket and have just installed FI system onto it (Was running '72 240 carbs before)
I have a Walbro 255 ltr/hr fuel pump, AN6 lines & Megasquirt installed and running. Its sort of tuned, but I want to add a sump to the bottom of the gas tank before finalizing the tuning
Running with turbo injectors installed already, seems to idle fine. It has lots more pull then the carbs.
For ignition control I'm planning on switching to the Crane XR3000 with the add on package they have for boost retard control.
For the turbo, I picked-up a 300zx (single) turbo, had it rebuilt and had to have the cooler side snail reclocked to fit under the intake.
I suspect with the N/A motor setup, I'll have to dial in a lot of ignition retard, keep the boost reasonable and install an I/C to keep it from blowing up.
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I've always gotten my panels from Zedd Findings. Never any problems with shipping or quality
You should expect to have to trim of some excess materials from the aftermarket pieces. There have been some cars that I've worked on when I am thankful for the excess material.
Web site for Zedd Findings - http://www.datsunzparts.com/
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Hey guys,
I've put in the Retrofit in to 2 zcars. No problems or complaints.
I sent the inner carrier casing to Retrofit to have the kit installed. Did all the disassembly and assembly myself.
Seemed pretty easy.
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I've rstored 6 zcars in my life ( We're talking complete floor, frame rails and rockers and exterior body panels)
I've always used oxy-acetelane because I can use it to cut, loosen, and weld.
I have never had any problems with weld breakage and all my cars were taken to lapping days.
However it is more time consuming to prevent warpage. I will weld only 1/2" welds and cool with a wet rag. Criss-crossing along the length reduces warpage too. and if the panel gets really bad I beat it flat with a hammer and dolly before continuing. I make sure that I eventually fill the entire length with weld so that the body filler doesnt crack.
The other thing I like is when grinding the welds its a lot easier to get a good finiish. I think because it's softer then a Mig weld.
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Thought I should post this one for those of you who will be megasquirting your zcars.
DONT hook the "switched" 12v power source to any of the alternator/regulator wires like I did.
It seemed like an easy spot to hook up to, but all my ECU reset problems have been because I tapped the into the switched power there.
Just as a whim tonite I thought I would find another 12v source (battery direct) and instantly all my reset problems went away.
So now all I have to do is find an easy point in the harness to tap into a 12v switched source.
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Iv'e installed the Retrofit Limited slip kit into both my car and my uncle's 240z.
Both differentials have settled in now. On my car the setup "loosened off" a bit because the diff gears are very worn. It still locks both rear wheels but the breakout force (car up on jackstands) is less.
Actually this is a better setup for wet road conditions because there is less understeer going into a corner. During the winter I'll add some shims to adjust the breakout force a little higher.
My uncles diff has stayed with a higher breakout force because his diff was in better condition to begin with. He's thrashed his more than I have and its still going well, with no problems.
I believe you should be able to use this on your V8 project. This part doesnt appear to be the weak link in the drivetrain system. But you can ask Retrofit yourself about this.
Retrofit Limited Slip
PMB 158, 236 S. 3rd St.
Montrose, CO 81401
1.970.596.4135
email: limitedslip@hotmail.com
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Can you give some more info on your setup so we can help you figure this out
- Tire type sizes, pressures, condition - are they worn & old or new ?
- Toe in settings in front. - Did you lower the car and not check toe-in afterwards?
- Ride height for front/rear does the car seem to sit level front to rear?
- Shock settings for front/rear. how many turns are they set too?
- Do you have stock, worn or new urethene bushings?
- What condition are the balljoints, tierods, steering rack. - New or older?
Some of the symptoms you describe seem to be from the last item - balljoints, tierods and steering rack condition.
Also is the understeer the same in both directions, or is it only bad one way and not in the other direction?
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The kit took about 8 days to arrive by courier.
It took about another week to build up to the point of being ready to install into the car.
Send me PM when your ready and I'll package up the extra bits in numbered bags for you. I usually visit a relative that lives near Port Severn so I can drop the stuff off to you.
dash lights + rear lights out
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
I had the same problem and found out that the fuse holder clip for the dash lights and rear lights are not making good contact with the fuse.
The clips in the holder have weakened fover the years from heating and cooling. I tried to bend that tabs closer together to sqeeze the fuse more, but it just got so bad that I had to buy a new fuse panel.
Problems solved now ( well I guess for another 30 years or so)
Jeff