Stealth-Z
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Posts posted by Stealth-Z
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You know the it almost looks like a 280z, from the door panel interior pics. The door panel looks like mine on the 280 but not on my 240. Any one else have a guess for the year? Where's Alan T when we need him?
Most likely it is a 1977 or 1978 model.
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Definetly not a 1970. Has this one been sold and re-sold a few times this year?
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Just saw this posted on Zcar.com . There are more photos, check them out.
http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=4&i=313351&t=313351
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Flood damaged? Might be one big mess to deal with.
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Nice job. Very clever way to mount the intercooler.
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Yes, Link to ordering please!!!
Mike
http://jadatoys.com/info.php?sub=dist
Looks like you can get them at the local Toys R US and many other common places.
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This has been an ongoing thing. Here is a link to 3 pages of it on freshalloy.com. It is legit.
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After reading all the posts on the link you provided, I did not see anyone mention checking the grounds. I have had two 280Z's that had the same problem you described. They would run fun one day then leave me at the side of the road scratching my head the next.
Other ground problems occur around the relay brackets under the dash. The relay metal casing have to have a solid ground to the body. You can use a 12V trouble light to probe around. Attach it to a good solid ground, turn the ignition key on and start probing around. Touch the case of the ECU and the relays. If the light comes on you have a ground problem.
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naviathan,
I type to slow. We seem to have had the same thoughts at the same time.
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From the problem you have described, I do not think you have a relay problem. The running light's are all tied into the same circuit. All four corners would be getting power then.
Have you checked the brake pedal switch? Perhaps the filaments in the bulbs in the right side brake lights are burned out? That would give the appearance of only the left side being on.
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I look at it. I touch it. I love it. I just cant work on it.
I know how you feel. Mine has been sitting in the garage for a few years now. When you are torn down to the bare shell it looks hopeless that it will ever get back together. Doing it all is a daunting task. Getting others over to help is even more of a challenge.
For some reason Fairlady Z's do not have much value here in the U.S. Everyone talks about wanting one and how much they are worth but none ever come through.
Maybe we should form our own Fairlady Z restoration support group....
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Here is a link to the factory fuel injection troubleshooting manual. Right click on it and "Save target as" to download it. Lots of useful information.
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My 78 Fairlady Z has the same style mirrors. You can see the power switch's below the steering column. Of which this one is missing one. Mine has the same control setup. They will not be going back on mine.
That Z has been listed before. If I remember right, it sold for around $800.00. This time it looks like they are trying to hide the fact it is a 2+2. The GS VIN gives that away.
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how did you find those
Read the complete description on this ebay listing.
There is even a number to call.
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Special features not found in a normal RB26 include an 8-bolt flywheel pattern*
Looks like you have to use OS Giken's flywheel as well.
Current exchange rate of $1.299AUD per $1.00USD that means it is only $20,785.00 U.S. dollars....
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Just remembered, there was a thread not to long ago covering this subject.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114156&highlight=RHD
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Any time I see one of these "How much is it worth" questions, I refer to a friends saying.
"The Ultimate value of any car is, How much does it weigh?"
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On the road and it is suppose to snow this weekend!
Good work. I'm crossing my fingers in hopes you can drive some before the snow hits.
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You missed this one...
This is how it looked November of 1986 in Okinawa Japan.
For almost 20 years I have been curious about its whereabouts. Nice to see it still survives. Unfortunately Don, the owner, passed away recently.
Finding these old photos of mine encouraged me 3 years ago to buy a 1978 2+2 Fairlady Z. I always liked the way Don set his Z up with the G-Nose and rear spoiler.
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Various types of fiberglass hoods. Scroll down some.
http://www.up22.com/falcongto.htm#Datsun%20Z
Ops, would like to add customer service is great. The freight company damaged it in transit and Unlimited Products took care of the problem quickly. I purchased a flat standard hood from them.
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Welcome to the RB part buying Blues. Once you think you found a good source and price, another comes up.
B&E Customs was $300.00 for the RB26 gasket set several months ago. As more business's import these parts I am sure good ole American competition will drive the prices down some.
You can look forward to sending lots of email. But do not count on receiving many replies. Same goes for telephone calls.
If you do a valve job, wait till you try to source the RB26 lifter shims. That one is interesting in itself.
Anyway, I feel your pain and frustration!
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Excellent setup. Your team did a great job.
My only question is, how did you manage to keep it under wraps from everyone at HybridZ so long?
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Here is some video of StockyMcStock's Super/Turbo charged RB30. Sounds impressive!
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Not many are doing the RB30 conversions here in the U.S. You will find more information on Skylines Australia,
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15420
I am still in the assembly phase of mine. The only additional machine work required for the RB26 head on the RB30 is tapping out the block for larger diameter head bolts.
One minor thing, you want to block off the rear oil feed to the cylinder head on the block as well.
Cubes made a PDF file about the RB30 conversion.
FAIRLADY Z Ebay
in Non Tech Board
Posted
If it is truly registered as a 1970, then it just has to conform to that year. Since testing is not required for 1975 and older cars, due to a DMV error, it does not have go through smog testing every 2 years.