Stealth-Z
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Posts posted by Stealth-Z
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Thought I was dreaming when I bought this RB26 in Hong Kong for the equivalent of $130.00USD. No where near as nice as your dream though. This one did not have forged pistons.
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Outstanding. Would you also happen to know the part numbers for the small spacer/dowels that go on the studs securing the throttles to the plenum?
Brian
That reminds me I am short 2 of them.
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Hiya,
Has anybody got any pics of flared wheel arches (not bolt on type)? Just curious to see how they look. Done a few searches, only found 2 seaters and wanted to see how they look on a +2 before i do it myself.
Thanks
Fantagon
I remembered the above post when seeing this on ebay today.
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IF you mean the single wire oil pressure switch like my 77 has, then that must be wrong. I removed mine to install an Autometer oil pressure gauge with no ill effect.
From 1977 back to 1975 the AFM had the safety fuel cut feature. On these years you could turn the key on, remove the plasic cover on the AFM, then rotate the AFM mechanism to turn on the fuel pump.
In 1978 they changed the fuel safety cut to route off the oil pressure sending unit. Same principle as the AFM method, no air flow, no need to continue fuel pressure, no oil pressure, definetly do not want to continue fuel!
As Larry points out with the alternator & oil signals, there is a redundency in the system.
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Sweet, whats your point?
I like your dedication towards your Z. You purchased it without seeing it in person, trusted others to repair it, and your first drive was across the U.S. to Canada.
Your story far eclipses my 2+2 Z car find. I found these at the Dollar Tree store. It is difficult to find any kind of models of 2+2's. Coupes are all over the place. Just kind of amusing to see a 280Z 2+2 with a 7up logo.
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Nunavut,
Nice story indeed. Great dedication and leap of faith getting your Z.
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A few hours ago I picked up another 2+2. You can get them at Dollar Tree!
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I just wanted more info on the product. I asked him several questions about the # of layers , resin, overall quality , weight , some better pics and from the bottom. He was unwilling to answer, so I would stay away from that one.
Look's like it might be from Showcars.
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I like this photo. Looks like the right wheel is off the ground.
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http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/fr_set-from_top-menu/fr_index-com-eng.html
Base price on these seem to be around $12,000 with a 120Yen to 1 USD exchange rate.
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I bought a dash from England for $130, $500 for shipping. It showed up cracked as hell. $630 dollars later I have two cracked RHD dashes. I have been looking for two years.......very discouraging.
Does anybody know if the JDM 280zx has the "Datsun 280zx" rear badge. I know my 75 does not say Datsun anywhere
The place in California that restores dashes is called Just Dashes http://www.justdashes.com/
There is also a place in Australia I have heard of but forget the website name. "Edit" Just found it. http://www.dashboardrestorations.com.au/index.htm
Now I do not feel alone having two cracked RHD dash assembly's.
I do remember the JDM S130 Z's did not have the name plate "Datsun" anywhere on them.
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How are the repairs going on it? Be cool if they do a follow up story on it as well.
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Hrm, good possibility. I am also trying to figure out where the second wire out of the VSS goes, one obviously goes to the Speedo which then goes back to the ECU but where does the grey/red (if I remember correctly) go?
Did you get your tach working in the S30 pods? That one looks pretty straight forward but for grins I hooked it up to a 12v source and then used alligator clip from the tach output in the engine bay to the Sig on the tach and it did not do anything....
My project has been put on hold. Hopefully I can start building the motor now that I have the right pistons.
As for the Tach signal, I was looking at using pin 7 off the ECU. An ocilloscope should show a square wave about +6v. Engine bay would be a different signal.
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Did anyone ever figure out what the 4 screws mapped to on the speedo? I am about to jump into this same project but cannot figure out which screws correspond to which wire on the speedo, there is sig+ marked, and I think I have identified ground but not sure about the other two, one is bound to be V+ (5 or 12v?) but baffled on the last screw.
I have not figured it out either. Perhaps the 4th lead is to the ECU speed limiter?
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Just for FYI, there was a 3 piece for a coupe on ebay a few days ago. It went for $132.00.
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can we at least see some pics of these mounts?
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99258&highlight=motor+mount
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This problem is more prevalant to the Rb20 and 25 I am told.
Seems you are correct on that statement. I have disassembled 3 RB26's and the crank gear slide off with my fingers.
The RB20 I had would not budge. Eventually ended up cutting it off.
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Just a thought with your clutch engagement problem. I have a R33 clutch master cylinder assembly attached to a vacuum power booster (like a mini brake vacuum booster). On the side of the cylinder is 5/8.
The Pull Type slave cylinder is physically larger than the Push Type, so perhaps it does need a different master cylinder.
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My block has been bolted on the back for months. I used good grade hardware store bolts.
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Looks good. I like a simular factory install look.
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Mate of mine did some consulting work with one of the belt manufacturers in Australia while building an RB30DET (they wanted to produce a kit for the RB30DET conversion) - turns out many of the belts people use for this conversion are not heat rated for the application, and will not have a good belt life. Something to consider...
Which belts are not properly heat rated?
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I use an old x-ray machine hand controller "Dead Man Switch" instead of the screwdriver. It has a spade for the solinoid and a large aligator clip for the battery post. Nice having a 6 ft cord to walk around the car with.
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woah woah. hold on.
66 cc?
arias claims 64.5, and a lot of NZ doods claim 64 flat.
ideally i'd need to drop my cc by 4 on the head side, and i could run into an 10.5 or so.
I'm, going to go calc some more with dyno2003.
Now you know why I measure myself. Look at Wiseco's catalog. Their Specs for RB26 head is 70cc's and the RB25 head is at 66.5cc's.
http://www.wiseco.com/PDFs/Catalogs/SC07/NissanSubaruToyota.pdf
My two RB26 heads measured out at 64cc's with light oil.
Before the cutting, I am going to measure and do the math the old fashion way. The fancy computer calculator's all seem to be different.
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Stealth-Z had emailed me regarding them already, however, I think if you're selling them, it's ok to post here:
Compression height, overbore size if any, dome height, compression ratio on a RB30 or RB26 (whatever application they are originally for). basically what you request when ordering them (unless they're off the shelf)
These pistons are custom not off the shelf. No one to my knowledge has these specs with off the shelf items.
Wiseco figures the pistons sit in the bore by about 0.020, RB26 head measures of 66cc's, and a stock head gasket at about 0.059.
Once you start modifying those numbers, you will start to see different compression ratio's. These pistons will actually give me to high of a CR. Wiseco informed me it is okay to shave part of the dome off.
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My understanding of that sticker means the belt was changed at 100,000 kilometers or about 60,000 miles.
I had the timing belt on my former 300ZXtt changed at the Nissan dealership a few years ago. They put a sticker on the door jamb indicating it was replaced at 70,500 miles.
Your motor may have 60,000 miles plus on it. Just my opinion on that though.
The Primaonna Z Is Not A Myth!!
in Non Tech Board
Posted
ww,
Watching how Jack cuts and lays the different materials is incredible. My wife and I were there while he was working on the front end piece for the white Z32.
Very cool seeing a master at work. You definetly gain an appreciation for quality fiberglass parts after watching him work. He is meticulous about his work and sets a very high standard.