pledgekincaid

Yeah I can sell them if you want to pay to ship them. I’m going to try and drop the whole rear subframe tomorrow.

Has anyone installed or thought of installing 370z fender lights on their Z? My wife has a 370 and I always liked the way they looked, I thought they would look cool where the quarter panel emblems go. Run them as parking lights or something. Thoughts anyone?

I’ll take the dumb post of the day. Front adapter plate came off, obviously. I’ll get that thing off first thing in the AM. Thank you!

This should be very straight forward but I am absolutely mystified. Pulled my transmission to do a manual swap (since I had to pull it all for the seal replacement). I got the flex plate off and see my main seal is leaking. Odd part is the mounting face for the crank is not flush with the rear of the block. Must be about 1” away. I’ve never seen it before, car runs and drives but I can’t think of a way to replace the seal because the mounting face is wider than the seal. Anyone have any idea what I am running into here?

Bump bump bump. I’m off this week and will be stripping this car down. Finally took a good look at this and it is a 2/77 car. Everything I got from the PO said 76 but the engine and head say differently. Either way I want to help some people out here. If you want something minus the transmission, pedal assembly and lines it is yours for shipping plus whatever you think is fair/will offer. I want this stuff gone so I can clear out the driveway. Seriously. If it isn’t in great shape and you want it anyway it will be yours for shipping. Ill take photos on request. I want to get the manual swap done this week so I’ll check my phone when I can. Will send photos of anything you need.

HybridZ members, Post updated to reflect 1977 280z. I have a 1977 280z 2+2 I am conducting a full part out on. Car sat in a field since 1991. I will be selling everything off of the car with the exception of the manual transmission parts (4 speed, pedals, clutch lines, etc.) and possibly the motor, depending on offer. I have the automatic transmission and associated parts from a 75 280z that I will include as part of this listing. Due to current weather no parts but those easily accessible can be pulled at this time, though I will be able to pull items requested come warmer days. I am located in Spokane, WA. To to be honest I don’t know what any of these items are worth and none of it is worth its weight in gold. This isn’t the holy grail of Datsuns here, just looking to find my project and help some people out in the process if I can. Let me know what you are looking for or what additional information you would like and I will be happy to oblige. Will take photos of items on request. As parts are sold I will update this posting. Looking to offload some of this stuff and want it to go to a good home/wife wants the car out of the driveway. Looking to sell this stuff to make room so I can actually work on my car. If you want something just ask and throw me a price. I might surprise you. SOLD PARTS: steering wheel combo switch, turn signal door cards rear door handles stub axles and companion flanges fuel tank and sender fuel tank filler tube front diff mount differential dog legs mustache bar windshield trim end pieces center console hazard switch hatch release button. A few miscellaneous relays. Selling everything at best offer plus shipping. Want this all to go to a good home. Let me know what you would like!

I have a 76 280z. My car has two switches, defogger and hazard, and a blank. One of the resident experts can chime in but I only have two if that helps.

The internal screen was not removed. I don’t know why I wasn’t thinking blow by.... engine oil is filled to spec, minus what I have lost making sure the oil spraybar was functioning properly and what has fired out the breather. Sounds like ill I’ll just cap it off and leave it at that. thank you for the input!

Hopefully this makes sense and someone may have an answer. i just rebuilt my l28. Just a re-ring, hone and clean up. The car is converted to carbs so the PCV on the valve cover and the block tube are both vented to air. I finally got the engine running well BUT when I spin her up above about 4500 rpm the block side tube starts puking oil with what seems to be hard carbon deposits. Any idea what would cause this? Oil in in the pan is still clean, no leaks anywhere. Oil level isn’t too high. No pressure issues. I don’t see how oil can be running up that high unless I have a blocked passageway elsewhere? Engine is running a tad rich but nothing crazy. let me know what you all think. thanks in advance!

Ding ding ding! You win! How much for it shipped 99217?

You’re well on your way to being my best friend! Let me know when/if you find it! thank you.

Looking for a camshaft oil spray at for a 76 280z. Thanks!

Miles, I did see those but I am trying to take a stab at it myself. I finally got this one sorted out too. The mistake I was making was not using the signal wire from the combo switch as the trigger to energize the relay. I have attached a diagram showing how I wired it up, using the OEM plug from the headlight to wire into for the 280z. The only piece you need to add is a ground wire from the headlight to the chassis. It took me a minute to figure it out but this keeps the headlight functionality. I added a redundant set of relays that keep the headlights from being turned on unless the key is in the ACC or RUN positions too since I have a habit of leaving mine on. The headlights I purchased also have a set of halos and integrated turn signals. Those can be run off the +12V line powering the relays (in my case) and a splice into the positive (Green-White) turn signal wire. I will be keeping the stock markers for added visibility until I change up the front end. I hope this diagram will help someone who is not so electrically savvy in the future to wire up LED headlights. I purchased a set of headlights designed for a Jeep. If I made a mistake somewhere along the line please let me know so I can fix it on my rig too. Thanks everyone!

I may have sorted that issue too, let me know if I figured this right. I wired the headlights up based on normal relay wiring. 12V to the 30 terminal, ground off the 85, trigger on 86 and output to the 87. i believe that I need to have it wired with 12V to the 30 and 86, the trigger to 85 (headlight switch) and out to 87. Does that make sense? Did I get that right or am I way off?

JHM, you are correct. The turn signals both operate flawlessly but the hazards do not. Throughout this his process I have discovered a separate issue with my headlights. I am am replacing the original lights with a set of LED headlights. Each beam for each light operates on its own relay, wired in from the original headlight plugs. They are wired direct to a 12V source with the signals coming off the original harness. My issue is this, the high beams turn on when the light switch is activated and will turn off with the high low switch but low beams do not operate and highs do not turn back on when the light switch is active. I’m definitely at a loss for this one. Thank you you for all your help.

Sorry, I have a 76 280z. Fuses are okay okay and the flasher units are in good order. I think I may just be chasing gremlins. I pulled off the clamshell to check out switch. Turns out I have two signal switches. One mounted and one dangling under the column. I checked the mounted one and the contacts were clean and the switch operated smoothly but no signal. Checked the hazard switch, still running left side only. Switched to the hanging switch. Both left and right didn’t work. Checked the hazard; ran left side only. Turned the hazards off (ready to dive into other areas) and the blinker worked. Runs in both directions. Checked the mounted switch to see if it was a fluke and that switch runs both sides now too.... I have a bulb out on the right side I have to find but otherwise the blinkers work great. I still cant think of what would cause the left to run and the right not to given the contacts are good throughout. I checked the wires from the hazard to the flasher and they are fine. They also appear to be fine to the lights. Do I have a bad hazard switch? thoughts?

Hello all! I have a question for you. I have been doing a carb conversion so electrical has taken a backseat. I have have been working on rewiring and installing some led headlights and finally got to get the turn signals. I have done some hunting through the forums and thought I would ask just to get some expert advice on my particular situation. My turn signals do not work in either position, no lights on the dash or from the markers. Hazard switch worked before. Still turns on and runs the left blinker only. I am making the assumption that I have a connection issue at the switch since neither position works. Will a issue at the switch explain why the hazard will run the dash and signal lights for the left only or would there be a second issue? What is the best plan of attack? Thanks in advance for all of your help!

Hey all, I have an interpart louver on my 280z but the locks are completely toast. I'm looking for a set of locks or some guidance on how to hold it down otherwise. Let me know what you have! Thanks!

Zhoob that is the one, thank you! And the reason for the surge tank is more future plans. I know it isn't necessary now, but I do have plans of an RB swap in the future, so updating all my systems bit by bit to where I need them will make the swap in the future easier. Thank you everyone!

Hello fellow Z enthusiasts, I am on the hunt for a few things regarding the fuel system and I would like some guidance. First things first, I will be doing a fuel surge tank setup. Somewhere, at some point, I saw a beautiful system that had been run off the stock tank and laid out in the spare tire well that had been dynomatted with blue/red -AN fittings. If someone knows which picture/forum/thread I am referring to I would love the link as I know it answers all of my questions. But if it cannot be found, I am asking if there is truly a difference between buying Jegs or Summit or another generic branded item vs. Aeromotive or another name brand that would warrant the price tag difference for a converted L28 that isn't hopped up? I, as well as every other car enthusiast, have aspirations of 500HP monsters under the hood. Realistically that dream is years in the future and I can cross those bridges when I need to. So what would you all recommend to run using the stock tank to convert to carbs from EFI on a surge tank setup? Any insight is much appreciated, thank you. -Robert

Hey everyone, I am looking for a 4 Barrel intake manifold and a set of headers for my 280z. I am in Spokane WA, relocating to Portland OR soon so if you are close that is even better! Let me know what you have and I will get back to you as soon as I am able. Thank you! Robert

Ah okay. That makes sense, I totally skipped over the little diagram at the bottom. Thank you for the clarification!

NewZed, I'm just using the reference for the atlanticz link above. It shows an alternator- ignition relay, ignition switch, headlight switch, and EFI ignition relay. That's why I am referring to an EFI ignition link. I appreciate the help.

So the ignition EFI link serves which system? If I have removed the EFI system, wouldn't that link have no purpose?

Thank you for the link rama! Now if I understand this correctly, since I am converting to carbs, I should be able to drop the ignition efi link entirely right? I have no problem wiring it in either way, but less wires is better in my eyes.