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Everything posted by pledgekincaid

  1. Sorry for the delayed response. Distributor is pending.
  2. Fuel rail, injectors and COP sold. bumpity.
  3. Bump! moving and want this stuff gone. Any takers?
  4. Joesw, the rail has 2 3/8” barn fittings, one at each end. Does not have a pressure regulator but is tapped for on on the rail.
  5. Moving, having a baby and selling my 280z. Have some parts that I want to get rid of so I’m not toting them along. All of these parts either 1) came off of a car I owned 2) were purchased from members here or 3) were purchased new. Make (reasonable) offers ECU. 1 - 76 auto trans, 1 - 77 2+2 manual Distributor - 1977 Distributor, 1983 turbo, diy autotune optical wheel installed. Have oil pump spindle to go along. turbo exhaust manifold. All 4 studs intact, no cracks I have a full n47/n47 block head pulled from a 77 2+2. Ran with some encouragement, never opened up. Planted Universal seat bracket, 280z drivers side angled rear tabs. Photos on request. I probably have a few other items but would like to get these out of my garage to a loving home. -Robert
  6. Unfortunately the car is long gone. Best of luck!
  7. Baker, hate to break it to you but this is a 9 year old post. Moltar hasn’t logged on since 2015....
  8. That ^^ i could use the drive spindle.
  9. Looking for an oil pump shaft/spindle for a 280zx turbo. Have the distributor from an 82/83 zxt but need the driveshaft to run it all. Let me know what you have. Thanks!
  10. You got it. Send me a pm with your info.
  11. I have one from a 280. I don’t know if they are different but you can take this for 10+shipping?
  12. From what I can tell from your photos the body itself looks pretty straight. That helps you out but being in Montana does not. I’m out of Spokane and I see Z cars ranging in price from borderline free to 5k in the condition yours is in. Most of the value you’ll find is going to be in what comes with the shell. Is this a bare chassis? Do you have parts to go with the car not pictured? How is the glass? Knowing if the rust is superficial or full-blown cancer is huge too. The more info you can provide the better people will be able to gauge a market price. From my experience, limited as it may be, I think $1,000 is going to be all you could squeeze out of that thing, but I could be wrong.
  13. On the coil I should be reading my +12 across the terminals, correct? I see no reason to expect something different but want to be certain. Ill pick up a new HEI and wire it up, maybe that’ll make it work. This is all a labor of love so I don’t mind the work, I have plans for a turbo, full gauge replacement and a litany of other items, just want to get it to drive around the block before I tear into it again lol
  14. So I ran a new signal wire from the coil (-) and relocated the resistor, tach still not doing what it should. I’m thinking the tach(s) are dying so I’ll be going the speed hut route I think. Any other insights before I spend a bunch of money is always appreciated. I still need to check the relays and flashers but... As for the hazard lights and indicators on the tach I will be, very likely, living with it for now and requiring the car in the fall.
  15. That’s the cover I have. I know it was a late build car, could also be a donor. i know the bulbs are good. Dash illuminates so I pulled those bulbs to swap. The tach does not match the RPM. No where close. I will go through and clear up the grounds to make sure I don’t have issues there.
  16. Lazy - tach rises with rpm but about as fast as your thermometer rises. So very VERY slow. It does not fall and despite how far I rev the engine it does not climb any faster. ignition system is factory stock, no modifications in the electrical between solid blue off of the coil and plug on the back of the tach. the tach indicators do not flash with either signal or hazard. I have checked the fuses and had one blown on the 4th down on left. I replaced it with my cigarette lighter fuse temporarily although my fuse cover does not match the one you have shown so I have no idea which is actually which; I’ll have to get a photo of that in a couple hours. the flasher unit does make noise when the signal switch is activated L or R, and the front and rear lamps work. Just not those lights for the tach indicators.
  17. In the process of finishing up my manual swap and noticed one problem and apparently created another or two. Firstly, I have a 75 280z. I am running stock everything as far as equipment goes. I have done a fusible link - distribution block change. The problem I identified first was a lazy tach. Thinking this was a tach issue and not signal related I pulled the unit and replaced it with a spare. I still have a lazy tach and will be running a new line from the coil (-) to the tach using the existing in-line resistor to hopefully eliminate the issue. If there is an alternative solution to this please let me know. The tach replacement appears to have created my new and more frustrating issue. Now, my turn signal lamps do not illuminate as part of the tach. I swapped harnesses back to the original and the lamps still fail to light. Both front and rear signals still light on the car, though it does appear my right side flashes noticeably slower than the left. They do not light with the hazard switch activated. My hazard switch also no longer illuminates the right side lamps either front or rear. I hear the relay engaging. I hate chasing gremlins and would would love some guidance from the Z elders. I’m lost right now and don’t see where the issue for the indicator lights would be.
  18. Wife says the car gets a week before I have to part ways. if you want something specific speak now. Let me know what you want before the car goes to the junker.
  19. I have a set of passenger rails I’m willing to part with now, just flips the seat adjustment. I have a drivers set I will part with eventually but I need to get brackets to install my seats before I’ll let them go.
  20. Bump. All parts that have been paid for have been shipped. Engine heaights wiring harnesses front and rear suspension all ready for a good home.
  21. Rear end is pulled. Lower control arms, strut housings, r200, axles.
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