[LY28 crossflow L Series Cylinder head]

This thread is 8 years old, but the photobucket fix extension works

[Megasquirt Relay Board with Bosch 044 fuse blowing]

To add some further confirmation of the prefilter problem, I had cavitation issues using a stock 280z fuel pump with a Napa 3003 (WIX 33003), which is 20 micron

[FPR and Fuel Pressure Help]

3 hours ago, RefreshRate said:

stock replacement fuel pump

What do you mean by this? Is it an OEM pump? Is it an aftermarket pump that looks like an OEM pump? Is it a universal aftermarket pump that looks nothing like the original?

Really you shouldn't be worrying about what the specs were for the stock pump, you should get the specs for the pump you actually have (from the manufacturer).

As others have said, whatever pump you have probably won't cut it once you account for boost pressure. I personally wouldn't risk it for something that is a fairly small cost in the scheme of turbo builds.

[Welding mustache bar to drop mounts and dog bone]

I would imagine with a solid front mount and urethane bushings you won't get much out of a billet bar (at that point you probably get more flex from the bar than the bushings)

or you could try and get some aluminum bushings turned up to solid mount the factory bar, but then again the bar itself might not be stiff enough at that point.

[Low compression!!!]

Rectangle. The cylinder is your ignition condenser (capacitor), and that has its own functions (though how much function after 40 years I'm not sure)

 

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

 

Important part is towards the bottom about removing the ballast resistor

 

Again, be aware the stock coil will not survive with constant 12v, and must be replaced with a unit rated for use without a resistor

 

This may not be your problem, you could just have a worn out coil, wires, cap, rotor, or ignition module causing weak spark

[Low compression!!!]

8 hours ago, zeiss150 said:

I have an electronic distributor from an 82ZX... so no points. 

And the coil is the original 72 240z coil. 

Are you still running the ballast resistor? The stock coil runs at a fairly low voltage thanks to the resistor, but the ZX ignition module was designed for a coil that operates at 12V. I would recommend losing the ballast resistor and swapping to a 280zx coil (you can try just bypassing the resistor, but that's how I shorted my coil and burned up my pretty new wires)

[Headlight wiring pigtail?]

What's the problem with the current harness? If it's only with the socket on the bulb side, those are readily available and you would just need to cut and splice the one end. I haven't seen many of the datsun harness connectors available so you might have a tough time finding the other end

[280zx sbc 406 wiring needing sorted]

http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/fsm.php

Has clickable links through the service manual. I'll see if I can find one with a single large pdf that can be downloaded and saved.

 

Single file: http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/280z/1982/1982 280zx Factory Service Manual.pdf

[Chris Rummel's easy follow RB into Z wireing guide]

1 hour ago, RaisedHaze said:

Did anybody happen to save this image? I'm about to start in on a Neo swap and would love to have it as a reference. Thanks in advance!

 

[Street Suspension 280z]

When was the last time your strut cartridges were replaced? With all things stock, new cartridges and bushings (not the 40 year old originals you may very well have), and a proper alignment, the car should feel pretty decent.

That said, it's still a 40 year old car and came with some pretty soft springs from the factory. I'm in the process of swapping mine for much stiffer springs (250lb/in front, 275lb/in rear) and in my opinion the car feels much more planted, and only to have improved its ride quality.

I've also read numerous reports of a front air dam improving highway floating. I have one, but I had other problems before I put it on that prevented me from really feeling a difference.

[Ls6 swapped 240z]

I can't see any reason the stock voltmeter/ammeter wouldn't work with a swap. The stock engine wiring is almost completely independent from the rest of the chassis wiring. I seem to recall my voltmeter working in my 280z with my alternator unplugged.

[280z 302 sbf swap]

Any manual 280z/280zx will have an r200. 300zx turbo has r200 with OEM LSD, I think the 240sx all have shortnose r200 diffs, so they aren't a direct bolt-in.

[Base model 280zx project]

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-embed-fix/naolkcpnnlofnnghnmfegnfnflicjjgj

 

Photobucket fix extension, though I strongly recommend photobucket users download their photos and upload them to the threads directly.

[cranks, but no start/ignition (video)]

You mention the motor is out of a ZX, do you happen to know if your AFM is from the same car, or from your 78? You should be able to tell just by looking at the AFM iirc

[L.E.D hazard bulb issue...plz help!?]

Old style flasher units use a bimetal element that heats up to provide the flashing. Your new LED bulbs don't pull a fraction of the current that the incandescents do, so they don't cause this heating in the flasher.

 

To make this work, you'll need a modern electronic flasher unit (they flash based on a built in digitial timer instead of heating metal) so they always flash at the same rate no matter the load the bulbs provide.

 

I don't have the diagrams in front of me, but you may need two flashers (one for the turn signal circuit, one for the hazards)

[L28ET Out / L24 In]

What have you got for an ignition setup on the l24? When you're going to carbs, the only wires you need are for your ignition, and if you have something like the 280zx matchbox distributor it's dead simple to hook up.

[RT Diff Mount with Energy Suspension top mount and L28]

According to TechnoVersions:

7 minutes ago, wheee! said:

is not significant in stock applications, but leads to slightly better driveshaft angularity with typical V8 applications.

If you want to be really precise about it, I'd assemble it like it is and measure the angles, then decide about shimming the mustache bar or changing the bushing

[cranks, but no start/ignition (video)]

Are the injectors currently connected to the harness? If so, you will have continuity between every injector because they all connect to the same 12v line through the dropping resistors.

[Clutch master cylinder pedal connection]

I'm having a hard time seeing any alignment/misalignment in the picture. The master cylinder should be directly inline with the pedal left/right, and should be pretty close to one of the holes in the pedal up/down. Here's a picture of the connection I lifted from atlanticz

[Mating RB trans w/ Rear Sump Oil Pan]

You just use the 4 bolts. The brackets are for a little extra stiffening, but they aren't really necessary. Every rear sump rb I can find on google images only uses the 4 upper bolts. The stock l28 in your 280z only attached to the transmission with 4 bolts in about the same locations.

[280zx turbo engine sputtering popping wont rev past 2k rpm]

If it's running very lean, it's not getting enough fuel, but it's probably igniting alright. check all your injector connections as well as the injector resistor packs.

If the problem is appearing right after it rained, I'm suspecting something electrical.

[280zx turbo engine sputtering popping wont rev past 2k rpm]

When you say the wideband reads its maximum value, do you mean it was all the way rich <10:1, or all the way lean >20:1?

If it's rich, I'd start with the ignition system and distributor, if it's lean I'd start with the fuel pump, filter and regulator.

[Trying to make a 280z daily drivable.]

Any alternator can be made to work, it's just a matter of getting the belt connected and reconciling the wiring.

Other swaps I've seen are 300zx, Maxima, or even a few gm units.

 

EDIT: I should clarify, the reason the 280zx/maxima/300zx units are popular is because they bolt directly on and have the correct pulley to match the groove on the stock damper. The GM alternator swap I saw required the pulley to be swapped and some fiddling with the mount.

[Trying to make a 280z daily drivable.]

13 minutes ago, harry1589 said:

What is the benafit to this, surley the aultinator was spected correctly, or is it just that they are old and dont produce the amps they used to?

From what I understand, the mechanical regulators aren't known for the reliability or their precision. On my own 77 I've noticed a significant delay in response under "high" load. Whenever my headlights are on and I use my turn signals, the voltage fluctuates by nearly 1v. In addition, the 280zx alternator has a slightly higher base output, which works well for other mods, such as electric fans, upgraded wipers, and blower motor.

[Tips for removing 3M adhesive?]

5 minutes ago, G-Tech said:

Goo Gone works. its not quick n easy but its what i use on it. ill try to get as much of the padding part of the tape off then use it on whats left. 

 

I'll also add that Goo Gone and its clones can be found in a spray bottle form, which should help with application, though you will still need to scrape/wipe the adhesive. Maybe a fine scotch-brite pad or something.