Jump to content
HybridZ

ZHoob2004

Members
  • Content Count

    246
  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    100%

ZHoob2004 last won the day on August 23 2016

ZHoob2004 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About ZHoob2004

  • Rank
    Always Here

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    : Tucson, AZ

Recent Profile Visitors

3105 profile views
  1. I'm about 90% sure both of those are for the washer reservoir, which you yourself removed...
  2. I might have just the thing for you. I came across this manual about a year ago in preparation to install these carbs on my L28 (I haven't got that far yet, but they're intended as a placeholder until I go standalone). You may find what you need in here. 1973 240z 1974 260z fuel system modifications.pdf
  3. I'm not sure I'm an experienced enough engine builder to comment more on this, but that logic doesn't really make sense to me. The oil has the same thickness, and should allow/prevent wear at the same rate. Afaik, synthetic oils claim the same friction and viscosity specs as their conventional counterparts, which should result in the same film thickness and protection, without the tendency to break down like conventional oils. If you're really curious, you could always call amsoil and ask what they think. I'm pretty confident they'll say it doesn't make a difference.
  4. Why break in with a non-synthetic oil and not simply start with the high-zinc stuff? (And potentially any additives required for cam break-in)
  5. Looking at the 78 wiring diagram (available here), it looks like the fuel pump should be triggered by the same wire as the starter solenoid (the black/yellow one that connects to the ignition switch). Since the starter works, I suspect a break between that wire and the fuel pump control relay, or that relay is not behaving as it should.
  6. Size of the pulley depends on the speeds the alternator is rated for together with your expected rev range and the size of your crank pulley. On a hunch I think you'll be close enough no matter what size you end up with, but you may want to double check or ask the shop.
  7. Have you gone to an alternator/starter specialist shop? They should be able to help you. Anyone that can rebuild an alternator in house. I see a place in West Jordan called "Generator Exchange" that you might want to call, didn't see anything closer on google maps but ymmv.
  8. I have 639560 and 639570 on my car, not sure which one was which.
  9. Personally I'd treat the thing with some phosphoric acid rust converter (the usual stuff, ospho, naval jelly, rustoleum makes one, etc.) and then cover it in primer once it's neutralized. Then I'd ignore it, because it's in the spare tire well. Also, find and fix whatever leak let water get in in the first place.
  10. I ran my Z for about a year with the above configuration (no solenoids/tank, check valve to manifold) and it held pretty ok, but I didn't have heat (no coolant, leaks in cabin). I didn't really notice the vents moving out of place in low-vacuum conditions, but I didn't have boost to contend with, so there was always some vacuum. I think there's enough volume in the dash system that it takes about 10 seconds or so to leak down.
  11. Ok I failed a bit at reading comprehension there, but it sounds like the "vacuum cock", as Nissan calls it, is still in place, just the solenoids and vacuum tank are missing. There should be a small vacuum line poking through the firewall near the battery. This is the vacuum source for all the under-dash actuators and should be connected through a check valve to your intake. Inside the car, this connects to the vacuum selector valve which is directly controlled by the air lever. With this connected, you should hear your climate control flaps move when you change the position on the lever, and this may get your heat back by itself. As long as there's a check valve in the line, you shouldn't have too much problem with boost (depending how fast your actuators leak down). If you do have problems you can add a vacuum tank to give you a bit more time on boost before your vents all move.
  12. I'm pretty sure the number on the key isn't the actual bitting code, but is instead what's called a blind code, which has to be looked up in a book (that may be gone or locked up in Nissan headquarters) that associates the blind codes with the actual key codes. That said, there is a service called instacode that I have seen recommended by hackers and lock enthusiasts for looking up key codes, blind codes and bitting values. It's not very expensive, to get one month and then cancel, but I've never personally tried it, and any decent locksmith should already have this or equivalent. A bit of a longshot, but maybe a Nissan dealer could look up the codes? Not sure if they would even know how to do it, but maybe if you could get ahold of someone who's worked there for 40 years...
  13. Check the dumb things first, especially in a car with an engine swap. Are the heater hoses even hooked up to the firewall? It's not uncommon to bypass the heater core when swapping engines, especially when these cars have a tendency to leak coolant inside the dash. Many owners simply block them off and run without heat.
  14. I just wanted to chime in and say good job for concealing the key code in the image (a lot of people don't realize how easy they are to measure) I think a competent locksmith should be able to help you with measuring and cutting new keys, but I feel like the problem might be in the ignition cylinder itself. You could also look online for some references to use photoshop or another tool to measure the code yourself based on your picture. If it still works, it hasn't deviated much from the original measurements and the heights are standardized, though finding the exact standard may be a bit of a trick. Calipers can also measure the bitting height.
×
×
  • Create New...