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ZHoob2004

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ZHoob2004 last won the day on January 4

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About ZHoob2004

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  1. So I assume the reed switches are supposed to change state when enough current is being drawn through the coil, and that lack of state change is what triggers the dash light. If the reed switch is normally closed, you need to desolder one leg to leave it always open. If it's normally open, you need to jumper across the reed switch to make it always closed.
  2. About 14" for the bar on my 77. Was a pretty rough measurement under the car, but hopefully that helps you out.
  3. I figured someone already got to this. I can get this tonight. Message me if you don't see it within 4 hours.
  4. I'm not sure if this is Ron's car, but I found these in an album called "chassis stiffening inspiration". Looks like a similar mod. Album here https://imgur.com/gallery/X86Cl
  5. I don't have the diagram in front of me, but most gauges take 12v on one pin, gnd on another, and then connect to the thermister temperature sensor on the third. If you were able to power the gauge outside the car, you could put a variable resistor (potentiometer) between gnd and the temperature pin and sweep the range to make sure it works.
  6. Turbo clutch is a larger diameter friction disc. If you so desired (and many often do) you could use a turbo (240mm) flywheel with a turbo clutch on any l-series engine/transmission combo. I have no idea if the release bearing collar is different. If it is, it's because the stack height of the flywheel/pressure plate is different, which is what determines the release collar height.
  7. Also maybe a dumb question, but is the bar centered on the mounts? I would think the bends would be far enough apart to clear the rails...
  8. If it's hitting, then you probably need a spacer. Adding a small spacer won't really affect the performance of the bar, and can be as simple as a small piece of steel with a pair of holes drilled in it.
  9. Both of these feature an additional crossmember as well. I'm not sure if it's necessary or not, but it shouldn't really hurt. https://www.technoversions.com/MotorMatchHome.html
  10. If you're going to go through the effort, I think the way to go would be to leave the mounts in the stock location on the block and move the mounts off the crossmember and onto the chassis rails like how the v8 kits do. Then you can slot/redrill the crossmember mounting bolts and shift that forward to get some caster gains while you're at it.
  11. On their build thread, you will have to click through the pictures to see the unblurred version. Just something Photobucket does to ensure they lose more customers and reach bankruptcy faster. I think the pictures they were referring to were these, on a hybridz album.
  12. I may be misremembering, but I think that the early 5 speeds had 2x mounting ears on the back of the extension housing (unused on the s30) while the layer zx boxes only had one on the left side. Seeing as yours has 2, I think it's an earlier box. The better way to find out is to mark the shafts with a sharpie and run it through all the gears and count the ratios, then reference them to an FSM or one of the many convenient online charts. Also the clutch for all 72?-83 z cars is the same, minus the 2+2 and turbo models.
  13. I was under the impression that all 72+ clutches are the same until you get to the 2+2 and turbo clutch. Rockauto shows the same slave cylinder and clutch kit for 4 speed and the later cars. I would be surprised if the clutch fork is different, since the 4 and 5 speeds are basically the same transmission +/- an overdrive gear. The only thing to check is the release collar, and which one you use is dependent on the stack height of your clutch/flywheel assembly. If the new setup is the same height as the old one, then you will use the same collar.
  14. Generally wheel speed sensors are VR sensors, which just produce an AC voltage when you spin a toothed wheel in front of them. Connect an oscilloscope across the leads and you'll get a signal if you spin it (above a small minimum speed).
  15. Bell housing is different on the s chassis gearbox. It's the next generation of the same transmission, but if I recall you need some machining and to combine two transmissions to make it work.
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