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ZHoob2004 last won the day on January 4

ZHoob2004 had the most liked content!

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About ZHoob2004

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    : Tucson, AZ

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  1. Bell housing is different on the s chassis gearbox. It's the next generation of the same transmission, but if I recall you need some machining and to combine two transmissions to make it work.
  2. I recently rebuilt my FS5W71B and I ran into the same situation. It's my understanding that there was never a return spring from 1-2 to center. I believe this was added with the C variant of the transmission found on the S13 and later, but I never got far enough to determine if the parts were compatible or if I could modify my transmission to have this behavior.
  3. Just guessing because I'm not very adept at tuning, but I believe this may have something to do with your injector dead time, IE the amount of time it takes for your injectors to open when a voltage is applied. I understand one way to tune this is to switch back and forth between sequential and simultaneous injection and adjust until your AFR is the same in both modes.
  4. I believe the common swap used by the v8 guys is a Subaru power steering rack. If I remember correctly the length is just about right and you still use your stock style outer tie rod ends. Or the more popular setup as of late is the electric conversion, which you can diy or buy a new electric column from a variety of sellers.
  5. I purchased the few things that are listed as sold. Not sure why there's no additional response.
  6. Would an adapter like what is used for the z32 front brake conversion not work? I would think it's basically this except maybe you have to move the caliper further outwards (or maybe it's further inboard because of the rotor hat height)
  7. Not a direct answer to your question, but people weld these all the time. Never heard of any cracks or special preparation. TechnoToyTuning, Ground Control, Silvermine, AZC, etc. all sell weld-on coilovers and you can ask any one of them for welding advice or instructions.
  8. IDK if it was the same in the 78 as the 77 (it probably was) but the automatic cars came with an R180 rear diff.
  9. I'm going from memory here, but the shaft sits in the oil pump and then the whole assembly is fed up into the timing cover from below. The crankshaft drive gear, pulley, and everything else (including the whole timing setup) can already be assembled at this point. The oil pump/distributor shaft will rotate along with the helix of the drive gear as it comes into mesh. Hence the difficulty some have in getting the shaft properly aligned with TDC. Tapping it downwards will just reverse this motion, though it may give some trouble in this situation, same with everything else. Though I'm starting to think op might find these parts unusable anyway based on the amount of persuasion they are needing.
  10. The drive can't come out through the top, but the distributor can be removed and the drive tapped down. I also believe the whole timing cover could be removed with the oil pump and drive still in place, which might make it easier to work with (or just outright replace)
  11. I can't remember any threads off-hand, but I don't really see why it would be any different than swapping in a S-chassis subframe. Measure the donor car, then put the pickups in the same place. Looks like there's only the 4 corner bushings and the strut tops to contend with, so should be a simple matter of removing the entire back end of the car and starting from scratch.
  12. Another range of options that have been gaining traction in recent years is the RB flywheel on an L motor. There are small alignment shims available that will allow you to safely bolt an rb20/rb25/rb26 flywheel to an L28 crank and use a 280zx turbo or 350z clutch (they both bolt up). There is much better availability of lightweight flywheels for the RB engines on ebay and the like so this can be a good budget option to get a lightweight flywheel and a stronger clutch.
  13. It looks like your engine still has the spacer on the end of the crank for use with the flex plate. https://zcardepot.com/products/automatic-transmission-pilot-converter-spacer-adaptor-oem-280z You just pry that part off and stick a pilot bushing in the end of the crank. All the cranks are the same, so the flywheel will have no problem bolting up.
  14. So you have some major vacuum leaks? This will make it difficult to run, and the carbs won't provide the correct mixture. This will be the case with flat or round tops. These carbs don't take much to get running, I think I plugged just about every vacuum port on mine and poured fuel into the bowls and it idled just fine. I did do gasket kits on mine before I ever tried to run them, so ymmv.
  15. Those are where the lower retractors for the seatbelts go. Look around at the project threads and there are lots of ideas for how to weld a cage to those. A roll bar should be the same situation.
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