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ZHoob2004

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ZHoob2004 last won the day on August 23 2016

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About ZHoob2004

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    : Tucson, AZ

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  1. They shouldn't even be able to post in the FAQ section. I feel like something is misconfigured (or perhaps just bugged) in the current version of the forum. Related is the broken posts when the title contains certain special characters
  2. There's a kit for sale if you're looking to go that way
  3. If I recall correctly, the reason it's not as desirable is because the lifters are NLA. They can be converted to solid, but I'm not sure about any of the details of the process.
  4. MightyCarMods on YouTube used a shortnose R200 from an R34 in their 240z build. They used all TechnoToyTuning parts. I believe this was the video where they do the diff install, but they may talk more about the parts in a previous video.
  5. According to my 77 factory service manual (you can download this, check google), the fuel pressure is supposed to be 36.3psi relative to your intake manifold. Subtract the approximately 10psi of vacuum you should have at idle (~20in hg estimated), that gives you the 26 you're reading on the gauge. I think your fuel pressure is working just fine and your problem is elsewhere and raising the fuel pressure is simply masking the real issue. Have your injectors ever been serviced, and have you checked that they aren't clogged? EDIT: Have you checked your cold start valve/system? It has basically the same function as a temperature-controlled choke, but instead of restricting air it just adds extra fuel to the intake manifold while cold.
  6. Have you actually measured fuel pressure? I had a similar issue with running lean and it turned out to be restriction on the fuel pump inlet caused by an inline pre-filter. Removing that immediately fixed the lean issue.
  7. I see it now. I find it surprising that a 3/4" difference per side is enough to keep the sway bar from bolting up
  8. Is that your T/C rod attached to your sway bar end link?
  9. Could be 240sx, but I thought the shifter was different on those. It's different in the picture I linked. Maybe a late 70s or early 80s truck?
  10. KA24DE? If so, there are a few people around that can cut and weld the front case with an auto L series case and make it fit.
  11. Based on the updated diagram I think what you have is about the best you can do right now. I believe the way the coolant is flowing is it's coming out of the thermostat housing, passing through the turbo and looping back to the water inlet, effectively doing the job of the original bypass line. As-is I believe you're taking warmer coolant from the thermostat and looping it back into your water pump, but I don't know where else you could get coolant flow from. Maybe from the block coolant drain near cylinder #6 and return to the thermostat housing? Someone with more experience with turbo L series could probably shed some light on the best setup.
  12. I'm not sure what running your turbo coolant lines like that is supposed to accomplish. As far as I can see, you've got a loop taking coolant from your lower rad hose (the coolest part of the system, but also the lowest pressure) and cycling it... right back to where it started in the water inlet... This configuration makes me think the turbo isn't really being water-cooled at all, because I can't imagine the water circulating through any process except convection, and probably not very well at that. The way I would run it is take coolant from the thermostat housing, go through the turbo, and then return through the water pump inlet. That way, theoretically, the water pump should circulate coolant through the center section of the turbo, and when you shut the car off convection can draw coolant through the turbo. I would leave the plug at the back of the head if you're not running a heater, as this is the hottest coolant in the engine. In the future, you may wish to add the #6 and #5 coolant bypass mod which draws hot coolant from the rear of the head and brings it to the thermostat housing to reduce detonation.
  13. Depends on location. I've bought 2 running L28E in the past few years for a few hundred each. I think $200 and $300. Also depends on block/head combination. Early and late heads are more desirable, while the something like the N47 maybe not so much. Block depends on what the buyer wants. IIRC the N47 is stronger (contrary to common wisdom) but the F54 cools better, but I'm not sure that extra cooling really makes much difference.
  14. Iron bolts can be dissolved with alum (the spice). Never tried it, but seen it mentioned before for removing bolts from aluminum.
  15. The factory tach needs to see a high voltage pulse to register, the MS is either 5v or 12v (can't recall) and won't be enough. I believe you can make a simple circuit using a transistor and a coil (not the ignition kind but the same principle) that will adapt that signal to work with your tach. I've also heard of using the coil winding in a relay for this purpose, but you would have to remove the mechanical switch inside the relay to not be driven insane.
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