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ZHoob2004

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ZHoob2004 last won the day on August 23 2016

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About ZHoob2004

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    : Tucson, AZ

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  1. No direct experience, but I remember seeing a guy build a welding table that had removable slats for just that. The table top was just rectangular tubing slats with a few inches gap between each of them, then they could be unbolted and removed to allow bends to hang through the table while welding.
  2. If the block wasn't decked, then it should still fit if it's assembled in the right order. If the block was decked, the timing cover should have been decked with it. I did the exact same thing when I was reassembling my motor a few months back, but it all went together fine once I loosened the head and did things the right way. I don't have any input on longevity being affected, since I have less than 10 hours of runtime since I finished assembly and installation. I reused the head gasket when I did this, since I don't think torquing a head should suddenly make a head gasket "used", but I'm also not using MLS right now, and it's not that inconvenient to do a head gasket on these motors.
  3. Is the head already torqued down? I've tried to put the head on first before and it wasn't happening. I had to pull it off and do the timing cover first. Essentially, timing cover needs to happen before head or oil pan, since both bolt to it.
  4. Sounds like the shop might have used too large of a press tool and it expanded the sleeve in the control arms. When I pressed mine out in the rear a chunk of the sleeve actually broke off and came out with the bushing because of how stuck it was. I replaced that arm and cooked the rest out before using the press. What part of AZ are you in? I might have a pair of front control arms sitting around, if I can remember where I left them.
  5. R200 swap requires: 1 - differential 2 - R200 mustache bar 3 - matching axles Driveshaft should bolt up. It may be possible to use your existing axles, but I can't say for sure. Depending what you're looking for, you may be better suited by the Subaru STI R180 swap which would use your existing mustache bar, but require axle adapters on the diff side.
  6. If I recall I got my rebuild parts off of rockauto.com, but I don't think I got needles with them. I believe the needles are interchangeable between the round-top and flat-top carbs, so ztherapy might be a good source for those, or I have also heard of importing SU parts from the UK, but I have not yet confirmed this for myself. Here's a comment I made on reddit regarding the flat tops:
  7. If it hasn't been rotated since you put the head on you should still be at TDC, but it's still possible you've moved it, especially when putting on the timing chain. My guess is you're a degree or so off. If it still doesn't line up any better, I'd probably call it good enough.
  8. Have you verified your engine is actually at TDC? Your damper or timing marks could easily be off a few degrees. Enough to give you the results you're seeing. Verify TDC with a piece of aluminum rod or a piston stop in the #1 plug and then go from there.
  9. Aren't the intake ports basically the same minus the injector notches and possibly the port sizes? (Should be within a few mm) What I'd do is take that model into fusion or solidworks and just use the 2d drawing of the mating surface and edit the notches out. Print it 100% scale and see how it fits.
  10. I should add that I'm hoping to eventually go ETB when I go back to EFI on my L28, but I'm not sure what I'm going to do about pedal and throttle body yet.
  11. Off the top of my head I recall the mightycarmods Z used drive by wire using a BRZ/86 throttle pedal, but I'm not sure what throttle body they used. Nissan seems to have maintained the same throttle body bolt pattern for a number of decades, but I'm not sure if the electronic throttle bodies are the same. If they are, you can grab basically any ETB off a Nissan from this decade in whatever size you want. Of course, check with haltech docs to make sure whatever you end up with is supported or that they're willing to add support.
  12. They shouldn't even be able to post in the FAQ section. I feel like something is misconfigured (or perhaps just bugged) in the current version of the forum. Related is the broken posts when the title contains certain special characters
  13. There's a kit for sale if you're looking to go that way
  14. If I recall correctly, the reason it's not as desirable is because the lifters are NLA. They can be converted to solid, but I'm not sure about any of the details of the process.
  15. MightyCarMods on YouTube used a shortnose R200 from an R34 in their 240z build. They used all TechnoToyTuning parts. I believe this was the video where they do the diff install, but they may talk more about the parts in a previous video.
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