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ZHoob2004

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ZHoob2004 last won the day on August 23 2016

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About ZHoob2004

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    : Tucson, AZ

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  1. ZHoob2004

    Tube between intake manifold 240z

    Tiny picture, but do you mean the hardline that bridges the intake manifold near the carb mounting flanges?
  2. ZHoob2004

    Am I crazy?

    They got popular.
  3. Do you have a link for those headlight adjuster clips? I'm just finishing up painting and will likely do something similar to my headlights and it would be nice to have parts on the way.
  4. ZHoob2004

    Custom 3D Printed Fender Mirrors

    PETG prints pretty easily if it's fresh, but it's pretty hygroscopic so you need to keep it sealed and dry until you use it. It is a lot stringier than pla, and is a bit unforgiving if your printer isn't calibrated properly. Layer squish needs to be just right or you'll have delamination issues or it will stick too hard to the bed. I've seen pictures where prints have taken chunks out of glass beds because the PETG stuck too well.
  5. ZHoob2004

    Custom 3D Printed Fender Mirrors

    Yeah I would prototype with PLA, and then do the finished pieces in ABS or PET. Probably want to do a lot of shells for rigidity. I've never actually tried acetone smoothing, but I would probably just give the layers a quick sanding and then fill in the difference with high-build primer. What are your plans for the reflective part of the mirror? Any ideas for adjustment?
  6. ZHoob2004

    Custom 3D Printed Fender Mirrors

    Design looks interesting. It shouldn't really matter what material the mirrors are printed out of as long as it's strong enough to withstand the aerodynamic forces and temperature swings the car is likely to encounter. Personally, I would paint the plastic with an automotive paint and primer as part of the post-processing step, which will also help to hide any layer lines that you don't get sanded out. TBH, this has given me the idea of designing and printing my own mirrors. Perhaps something close to the original long stalk fender mirrors.
  7. ZHoob2004

    1975 280z Part Out, bushings, and more

    Of note, the pedal "box" is the same for automatic and manual cars, you just need the pedals.
  8. ZHoob2004

    Broken Fuel Pump Bolt

    Since the bolt is iron in aluminum, it's possible to dissolve the bolt straight out of the hole using an alum and water solution. There was a great video on this by AvE that I've previously linked to, but it appears to have been removed from youtube. Here's another version of the same thing (by the same guy) that covers the "science" of it.
  9. ZHoob2004

    LS swap transmission issues

    Dumb question, but you didn't happen to install a 6 speed transmission, did you? You mention shifting straight from 5th to "R", but every transmission in 5 ever used won't let you do that without first returning to center. You also make no mention of what transmission you have, which will make identifying problems damn near impossible for the members that can help you.
  10. ZHoob2004

    Harmonic balancer fell off

    Sounds like you had the right setup, so I'm not sure why you'd have these problems. What was your tightening torque? FSM specifies 87-116 lb-ft, I assume dry.
  11. ZHoob2004

    Harmonic balancer fell off

    I think they're saying that the entire balancer and bolt are missing because the bolt backed out and the whole thing fell off and ran away down the road somewhere. I agree with newzed that it's probably an issue with the bolt and washer choice. The washer is really thick and rather unusual, and likely has a lot to do with proper bolt stretch. Also I think the threads are supposed to be clean and dry, but double check on that.
  12. ZHoob2004

    RB25 with twin exhaust

    I have no idea if this is accurate, but I found this on Google
  13. I'm pretty inexperienced with serpentine belt systems, but is there any reason this layout wouldn't work? I think my biggest concern with this is the lack of contact area and tension on the crank pulley, which experiences the most torque against the belt. Alternatively, you could potentially gut the power steering pump making it into another idler pulley.
  14. This diagram is all you should need. The red "from ignition key" wire goes to your on/off switch and connects the wire to 12v power. The big wires go to your battery in some fashion. Orange/black go to your coil. Violet/green go to your distributor pickup. This is a completely self contained system and all you need to do is tell it to turn on (with the thin red wire) Your starter button should only connect to the starter solenoid (and maybe a relay for your ballast resistor if you have one)
  15. Regarding the clunk, do you know if you have an upgraded diff mount in the rear? I put in a Ron Tyler style mount (from Technoversions) as a replacement for the factory strap and it almost completely eliminated the clunk with no noticeable change in noise and vibration otherwise.
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