anubis512

Thanks a lot guys. To follow up, I made a bigger cheater pipe for my wrench and was able to break the jam nuts and then the inner tie rods came out super easily. Thanks again!

Yikes haha. The jam nuts are regular threads thought right? And you'd want to turn it clockwise to thread it deeper on the rack and loosen off the inner tie rod?

I believe both ends of the rack are standard threads, correct? And the left inner tie rod socket (that connects the outer tie rod) is the only thing reverse threaded, which is why you can use two right inner tie rods. Therefore to loosen the jam nut off the inner tie rod, you want to turn it clockwise on both sides correct? Then the inner tie rod would be loosened counter clockwise per usual. The jam nut just isn't budging at all. The rack threads appear fine but it's not moving anywhere. I've been soaking it in penetrant and will apply heat next.

I'm in the process of replacing my inner and outer tie rods on my 280z. Unfortunately the FSM isn't super helpful in this regard and there isn't a ton of useful videos or threads I can find dealing with the OEM/original inner tie rods. The first video is from a youtube video I found. In his video, the jam/lock nut appears to be tight against the center ring that has indents. The second pic, from my car, isn't quite the same. Is my inner tie rod just not fully threaded on the rack, or has my inner tie rod just not be tight for all this time? Based off the different thread sizes it seems like the lock nut is snug. Secondly, what the hell do you do with this middle ring that looks like it's spot welded in place. I saw in some threads they mentioned "peeling back" those spots but I don't see how to do that. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

The starter gets positive and ground directly from the battery and a start signal from the ignition. If I remove the start signal wire completely, it still starts cranking once power is connected to it...that's gotta be a damaged starter no? Regardless of the cars wiring, the starter shouldn't do anything w/o a start signal.

That's what I thought. And there doesn't appear to be a starting relay or anything like that cranking. The RB swap harness was pretty simple, had a wire for starter signal that I connected from the ignition switch so I don't know what I could've messed up. Is it a sign of a broken/damaged starter? Maybe the contacts are messed up and it's getting power at the start signal contact?

Hey guys. I've been doing an RB25DET swap into my 280z and I'm using a Wiring Specialties harness for the swap. When I finally hooked up my battery (cables already connected to the starter, no key in the ignition), the starter tried to crank. I don't know if I've missed a starting relay somewhere that I didn't see in the wiring diagrams or what. Without the key in the ignition the start signal to the solenoid shouldn't be hot, so I'm not sure why it's cranking. If i hooked up the positive & ground backwards would this ignore a start signal and crank anyway?

Hey guys, I finally got my RB25 and trans sitting in my 280z, but while aligning the trans, I came across an issue. This connector (seen in the pics) on the passenger side of the trans is preventing me from making the shifter centered in the tunnel opening. I can't find any annotated pictures or diagrams calling out the trans components; what is this sensor/connection?

Awesome, thanks a lot. Your google fu is better than me, all I can get is CX racing stock images haha

Sorry if this is a dumb question, I tried searching the forums but didn't find anything that really talked about this. I'm doing an RB25 swap into a 280z, so I've had the oil pan converted to a rear sump type. I then realized that the engine had these two attachments that bolt on the sides of the engine near the back for the transmission to mate with. Due to the rear sump oil pan those don't fit. It looks like there's 4 bolt holes on the engine block that would still work with the trans, not including the starter bolts. Are there modified side attachments I need to get for the trans, or do you just use the 4 bolts you can? That doesn't seem right.

Yeah I'm re-sealing my tank and I know the lines are dirty from the tank, so I'm definitely going to run new lines. Do you know if the stock lines are aluminum or steel?

Hey guys From what I've seen around the forums, the general consensus is fuel lines should be up'd to 3/8" to accommodate the larger flow rates the RB25 requires but I can't find much talk about actually doing it. Has anyone done in before? I see some people say aluminum shouldn't be used, while the Summit Racing generic aluminum lines are allegedly rated for 200 psi. Other people say stainless is the only way to go, but it sounds like you need more heavy duty bending tools. What'd you guys do for your swaps?

Yeah, I didn't think it looked too good either. Hoping to get the head off today and get a better look

Yeah its not milky. I guess it was a previous event or something. I took a boroscope to the cylinder tho and it doesn't look too promising? One looks like oil/sludge getting by the piston, and another seems to be a damaged piston? Looks like you can even see debris at the cylinder wall @ like 7oclock

Yeah that's where it was connected. Do the stock turbos leak a lot of oil typically? I would've thought a small amount would be normal, but this seems like a lot. Also the coolant system appears to be very oily. If the turbo isn't contaminated the water lines with oil, I guess it could've had a blown head gasket at some point and gotten the coolant channels oily? Not sure what else could explain it.