Jump to content
HybridZ

Kires

Members
  • Content Count

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Kires

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 04/07/1975

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne, FL

Contact Methods

  • Skype
    kires.mccollam
  1. Back when I was a kid, I worked at a place in Ft Lauderdale called the Z car Center. (3 guesses what they specialized in) I was driving a '79 280ZX at the time. I had just picked up my son from daycare and dropped him off at home, and was on my way back to the shop to finish up a few more hours of work. It was raining cats and dogs, and there was plenty of water in the road. I came to a flooded section, and the water came up to the bottom of the doors, but I was young and fearless so I decided that I could make it through. (I was like 21 or 22, so still 'technically' retarded) I was ... not co
  2. I'll be using the oil cooler assembly from an 83 turbo. It's being connected to a rebuilt engine that was based on a non-turbo block. Both the cooler hookup and the block have bypass valves. I see no reason for there to be two bypass valves and I'm worried that they'll just make it so that less oil gets cooled and filtered, so I'd like to block one of them off. My question is this. Can I simply pack JB Weld over the block's bypass valve, then sand it smooth once it cures? Or should I pull the valve out and use something like a smaller freeze plug or something? I'm assuming I don't want two byp
  3. Thanks, Bob. I was actually wondering if I could get away with no oil cooler at all during the break-in period, but being able to use the old one will definitely be better. Thank you, sir. I was planning to take a wire wheel to it, but thinner or some other chemical would likely make less dust to drift off into an oil channel or something. I don't think they painted it intentionally; my guess is that it's just overspray, but still. I don't like the idea of having paint sitting there to potentially flake loose and lodge itself in a channel somewhere. (like the Turbo's oil inlet, fo
  4. Hi, all. I'm (hopefully) almost done installing the rebuilt engine and I've got a question about connecting the oil cooler to the block. As you can see, the block is set up to have an oil filter screwed into it, and I do have an aluminum oil cooler adapter that can be sandwiched in between the block and the filter to hook up the oil cooler. So there is an all-important plan B on deck. However, I also have the original oil cooler setup that came stock on the car, an '83 280ZX Turbo 2+2 and I'd rather use the original connector and hardware if possible, at least for now. Thing is, the
  5. Paypal sent for barbed rail with pressure gauge. Thanks!
  6. I neglected to mention a few things, my bad. The incoming engine management system doesn't use an airflow meter, so that should simplify the plumbing a bit (hopefully enough to make a straight-ish shot down from the naca duct feasible). The turbo itself is water-cooled, and the exhaust side of the turbo and the exhaust manifold are coated with this silver ceramic stuff that should help keep their exterior temp down. I'm definitely getting rid of the stock fan, and I've got a couple of electric ones to take over its job. I've seen setups where the intake is behind the radiator, but it just does
  7. The hood of my '83 turbo has a NACA style scoop, which I _think_ is there to bring in air to keep the brake master cylinder cool. I'm replacing the engine in the next few months, and I'm going to have to re-route the intake to accommodate the intercooler and larger turbo. While I'm at it, I'm planning to seal up gaps around the radiator and intercooler, and doing a bit of tweaking of the airflow into and out of the engine compartment for better cooling and less lift. Anyway, I'm wondering if I can use that naca scoop for the air intake (I'd need to fabricate a filter box), since it's directly
×
×
  • Create New...