Afshin
-
Posts
401 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Afshin
-
-
It depends when it breaks, if it's during a hard turn or high speed, you bet it's a "oh my God" event, if it happens at low speed or while driving straight, then you'r fine. Mine happened at high speed whith a divider next to me, it certainly was scary. Just imagine it happening on a mountain road or when racing..., heck the other Zar flipped over 4 times because of the rod snapping.
You only live once, i certainly would not down play it just because it might cause a bad accident sometimes as opposed to every time. I like to drive fast/race and then come home smiling with myself and the car in one piece every time, at least if I can help it
-
The chopper wheel on the left is from the 280ZXT, the one on the right is from any Z31, or similar year maxima. The holes should look like this when being dropped into the distributor. If you flip it over, then it will give the wrong reference point and run poorly.
In reference to which ECU would be best, it should be the 88-89 turbo ecu since they have 16 bit processors and have the correct timing/fuel map for the turbo (they are a little harder to find). As mentioned earlier, the 86-89 turbo ecu will require the matching O2 sensor, which will also require a correct size nut to be welded on since the thread is smaller on those O2 sensors than the 280zx sensor.
Also, on the 88-89 ecu's, it is better to switch injector 2 and 5 with each other to get the correct batch firing, (it's done on the JWT kit and makes sense with the wiring diagram). I don't know if there is any difference with the pre 88-89 ecu's and need to switch the number 2 and 5 injectors over, but if those ecu's fire the two banks of 3 cylinders in different orders as do the 88-89 ones, then the injectors should be switched.
I also found out that at least for the 88-89 ecu's you should use drop down resistors between the ecu and the injectors. A good place to place them would be in the harness comming out of the ecu connectors.
The resistors should be 6.8 ohm/10watt resistors (six of them) and solder them in line.
-
I posted pictures recently after uploading them on the site album and then right clicking on the picture and then selecting properties to get the url, now for some reason when I right click on th eimage the properties menu does not appear. Any one know why ?
Thanks
-
You are right, there is no clean cycle on the AFM set up. I just used wire 33 y/l form the Z harness because it was not used on the Z31 set up and hooked one end to position F on the MAF which runs the clean cycle then I connected the other end to the Z31 ecu with a new pin in position 12 which powers the burn cycle.
My car being an 83 280zxt has a speed sensor, I forgot that the earlier Z don't have one. What you can do is run a wire from position F on the MAF to a push button wired to a + 12 V signal. Then whenever you push the button on for a few seconds +12 V will go to the MAF and clean the fillament. This will work only when the ignition is on powering the other wires to the MAF, and should be done with the engine off (just the ignition should be on).
I would not use a toggle switch that could be left on by mistake resulting in the burning out of the filament. I don't know how frequently the other guys with the Z and no speed sensor clean the filament, but I guess it does not need to be done that often.
-
You definitely need to replace the master cylinder as already suggested. The ZX master cylinder is 15/16" diameter, which has sufficient volume to fill up the 1.75" pistons (4/caliper). The stock one is too small. I know that the 82-83 ZX turbo have 15/16" diameter, I don't know if it's the case for all the ZX master cylinders. Make sure it's the right size befor you buy it.
-
I believe that most often injectors are dirty and can be cleaned/blueprinted (unless it was a recalled injector or really cheap ones).
There is this company that apparently does great injector servicing rivaling RC engineering, however, they charge $11 per injector as opposed to $28. ( I got this info from the Mach IV/supra twin turbo guys).
The process is explained on their website. For all you know, your injectors might not be bad.
Here is the link:
-
Tim240Z said
BTW...I'm on my 5th Captains and cokeWell in the spirit of camaraderie and full sympathy from other Zheads/nuts..I would like to suggest that we HybridZ'ers join our buddy Tim in his endeavor and have at least five drinks each in his honor
I'll also second Yasin's suggestion to still bring the Goose to the MSA show, it's all about hanging out (unless you're afraid of my porker 280ZX with the L28et)
To Tim
-
You probably already saw this in the search :
http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&p=207618&highlight=#207618
there is a very long discussion on the topic.
The G machine set up does not come with the T/C rod, you need tog et them from the junyard. Since one failed, the other one is probably fatigued, so replace BOTH (from a car using stock bushings), it takes very little work to replace.
The urethane bushings are the primary cause of the failure. Use the stock bushing on the other side of the G machine set up. It's working great for me.
-
As far as I know, the two systems are not compatible and just changing the wiring for the MAF won't work. It's only a few more wires to hook up the Z31 computer anyways, which is much better (I got mu ecu for $34 from the junkyard).
On a side note bastaad, I think if you car is running a 82 ECU, you should be running an 82-83 distributor. I would imagine that the 82 ECU would not get the right signal and/or advance/retard timing appropriately with the crank trigger 81 system.
-
Good point John.
However, most often, at least in street use, more horsepower equal more rapid accleration into open "slots" on the highway for passing..; and more rapid accleration means more speed and momentum requiring by default enough braking force and torque to slow the car down in proper proporpotion to the acceleration/momentum rate building capacity. More hp = more acceleration = need for rapid deceleration
I can tell you that after increasing the horsepower on my car, the stock brakes (properly set up) felt out of balance with the car, even while the braking capacity did not change. They still worked "fine", but then fine never did it for me (off course I also needed an excuse to get the JSK/Wilwwod kit). The wife: are you still waisting money on your Z? Oh no honey, this is for safety
-
OK I got more info relating to the O2 sensors:
84-85 all models use Zirconia type which is the same as the 280ZXT
86-89 non turbo also use the older zirconia type (same thread as well).
86-89 TURBO models use Titania type which is non-compatible and has a smaller diameter thread
Has anyone on the site adapted the Zirconia O2 sensor to the 280zxt flange ? if so how did you do it , and was it difficult ? (weld a new flange....?)
It would be easy to use a non turbo 16 bit 88-89 ECU since the sensors are the same, but then the ecu would not retard the timing (under load/boost) like the turbo ecu would. Is it better to use an older ECU with turbo map or 16 bit newer one with a non turbo map ? I don't know.
JWT uses non-turbo 88-89 ECU's , but then they remap them anyways.
Also as bastaad pointed out, anyone with a 81 ZXT (crank trigger ignition)set up will need the distributor assembly from an 82-83 year. The chopper wheel from the Z31 just drops in and take 5 minutes to swap. I will take a picture later to show which side is the top of the wheel.
Another point for the 81ZXT harness, you need to add a pin in the ecu connector slot position 114 and hook it up to a constant 12V + source (white wire with black line) so the ecu memory stays on when you shut the car off.
A few more notes, for 280zxt with fuel pump modulators, it is now being bypassed, I forgot in the first post to remind you to ground your fuel pump to the chasis. (the relay will control the + line going to the pump).
Also, I realized that the Z31 ECU does not control the VCM (which controls the AAC valve) properly, so you should disconnect the VCM modul (the same thing is done with the JWT set ups, car idles fine)
Lastly, don't forget to disconnect the battery when doing any of this
-
Well you've certainly have had your fair share of turbocharged cars, I figure the supercharger should complete your forced induction experience. Come to think about it, does a AMG supercharged V8 fit in a Z
-
Yup, the NDL's will be more than fine, still the same clamping power and huge disc with great braking torque (great for testing your seat belts) and cooling capacity. While the superlites are technicaly a little stiffer, none of the techs could quantify the difference in feel between the two calipers (performance is otherwise the same). I think the "real" difference is marginal, if at all.
-
Unfortunately I don't have a scanner to send an electronic copy. Check section 6-75 on the chilton manual. If you can't find a diagram locally drop me a pm with your address and I will send you a photocopy.Afshin, Is there any chance you could post or Email copies of the Z31 wire diagram and pin codes? I bought a Chilton manual like Sleeper recommended in previous posts on this topic but mine is missing the wire diagrams. I have the diagrams for the 83ZXT and 73 240Z already. Does the year of the Z31 ECU matter? I have no idea what year mine is from since I bought it on Ebay.There is a difference in the year ECU
84-86 are the same
87-89 have the same pins, but I think the 88-89 years use a 16 bit processors (as opposed to 8 on all others) and are digital, which offers higher resolution and more accurate maps. I already had the 84 turbo ECU, but I will switch to an 88-89 turbo ECU whenever I find a cheap one.
You should be able to use the guide for the 84 set up for the 87-89 ECU, the only difference that I can see is that on the 87-89 pin 19 (as opposed to 16) controls the air regulator (which most don't use) and pin 16 (as opposed to 15) is for the fuel temp. sensor (which I have not used).
Also you have to use the 87-89 O2 sensors for those year ecu's, but I think all those may work with only the main black wire (one of three) hooked up (I'm not sure of that however). The 84-86 work with the 280zx O2 sensor. I remember reading that the 87-89 thread for the 02 sensor may be different, but I don't know if that's the case. Maybe someone else with a 87-89 ECU can chip in and make sure that I'm not missing something.
To answer Bastaad's question, yes the inlet and outlet on the MAF are the same as the AFM. And the wiring pictures were from the initial test set up. It's been cleaned up since wise guy
-
Here are a few pictures
MAF wires
picture of new pin and wire inserted in the ECU connector
picture of new wire goint to the fuel pump relay
-
Hi turbobluestreak
Where you the one I contacted thru Chris and sent those nice diagrams for the Z31 MAF connector and for the fuel pump relay? I lost my old emails and contacts a while back. If that was you thanks again, it certainly helped me work out the Z31 swap.
-
Hi jon
I purchased the wilwood forged billet superlite, which is the new replacement for the superlite IIA. it is a larger and stiffer the the NDL and I think also uses larger pads. These calipers will provide better feedback than the NDL .I also painted them red. I got them for $138 each at AFCO racing.
Hers is picture of the new (Ul curved vane, 12.19" for $42 each) vs old rotor stock sized cross drilled brembo's.
Man do I love this kit
For pads I went with the porterfield R4 S, excellent reputation, used by many cobra, porsche turbo.....people as a great street pad that hold it's own on the track. Of high value is also that portefiield makes the rear pads for almost every application, which means you can use the same pads front and back (I could not do that with wilwood pads)
-
Beautiful
Anyone know what was involved ?
Are these complete front end nose swap with chasis, or is it 240 Z headlight, hood... bolted on to a full 240sx chasis (which would be preferable) ?
-
I have no doubt that the meqasquirt set up is great and certainly has the very significant advantages of tunability.
However, the Z 31 set up has pratical benefits such as : total cost $100-$120 for the full set up, can be easilly up and running within a day (with instructions), does not require programing, laptop, dyno time, will be more reliable, passes emission easilly, has self diagnosis mode. Also, with an MAF as opposed to MAP system it can fine tune itself to changes in altitude, exaust, boost change...which usually require reprograming with a MAP based system.
I think when the ultra megasquirt with wide band O2 sensor and direct coil ignition comes out and proves to be reliable like the current set up I will switch over. That just sounds to damn good
-
Mudge wrote
Afshin wrote:once you hit 4000 rpm and the second turbo was up to full speed the car would launch violently into the horizon
Somehow I dont think you've ever driven anything fast, my car was lighter and made around 470 HP at the crank. It pulled quite nicely on the freeway, launching into the horizon? I wonder what kind of drugs one would have to be on to make such a claim, I think its the drug called "driving 17 second cars my whole life
I'm oh so happy for you that your car made 470 hp, not that anyone was asking
Would you like me to clap for you? A friend of mine had a 680RWP supra, does that make your car a dog? the supra I had was pumping 400 hp with minimal mods (exhaust, no cat..). Moreover, with the way that engine breaths, it outperforms many more powerful motors on the top end and possibly the 470 crank hp Z you have. 400hp 24 vavles that flow great witha modern fuel injection, broad power band, good aerodynamics and a six speed tranny does wonders accelerating a car in no time from 100mph to it's 155mph speed limiter. Lastly it's childish to make such a moronic assumption that I have been driving modified 17 sec turbo cars for the last 17 years. What's your point ? You certainly did not have any thing useful to share with us. Somehow you may have to rethink your thinking, if not the inappropriate and poor attempt at an insult. -
I just posted a "how to" for the swap in the turbo section as promised
-
Adapting a 1984 300zx turbo/Z31 MAF and ECU to a 1983 280ZXT harness:
Disclaimer: First, electrical shorts can burn out your EFI and/or cause a car fire. I have no interest in anyone doing this and don’t know if it will work for you or not. I have no formal training and am only sharing what I did for myself. There is no guarantee nor should any inference whatsoever be made that anything posted below is correct or safe.
Purchased parts: 1984 Z31 turbo ECU, MAF, any 84-89 300zx crank angle sensor/chopper wheel (the wheel has a top and bottom, do not reverse or car won’t idle properly) and MAF and ECU connectors with several inches of wire attached.
Also need wiring diagrams of both cars.
Nomenclature:
Mass air flow sensor = MAF
Air flow meter = AFM
Fuel pump relay = FPR
z = from 280ZXT
zx = from Z31 / 300 ZX
Example: zx 30 y/b = # 30 wire/pin which is colored y/b (yellow with black line) on the 300 ZX system
Also, I crimped every cut wire to connectors so I could plug and unplug all the changes.
CONNECTING THE MAF:
Cut the wires to the AFM a few inches back from the clip
Take clip and wire from MAF then:
1) Connect MAF Position A/wire 30 y/g to 30 y/b wire from z harness
2) Connect MAF Position B/wire 31 b to 31 y/r wire from z harness
3) Connect MAF Position C/wire black to body ground
4) Connect MAF Position D/wire 26 b to 26 b wire from z harness
5) Connect MAF Position E/wire 27/35 b/w to any ignition activated + powered wire (pin 27 and 35 are + ignition wires on the same circuit, they are b/w (black with white strip) and can be tapped into from either b/w wire going to the 2 V.C.M solenoids that are located under the AFM bracket
6) Connect MAF Position F/wire 12 r/w (for cleaning cycle) to 33 y/l wire from z harness
CONNECTING THE Z31 ECU to the Z HARNESS:
There are a few of the ECU connector pins that are different. I got an ECU connector clip from the junkyard and then cut it open and took out three metal pins with several inches of wire to it so I could plug them into the empty connector slots of the z harness.
1) Insert new pin into slot 12 of ECU connector then cut wire 33 y/l before it goes into ECU connector and attach to new pin #12. So 12 pin from the Z31 ECU thru wire 33 y/l will be connected to the 12 r/w wire on the MAF (marked as F). Now the ECU will be able to go into auto clean mode and keep the NAF filament clean.
2) Insert new pin into slot 34 of ECU connector then connect it to a new wire going to the + coil terminal
3) Insert new pin into slot 3 of ECU connector then connect to a new wire going to the – terminal of your coil. The car seems to run OK without this step, but I still wired it since it was done on the 300zx. I have a MSD and the car is doing well with it
CONNECTING THE FPR TO THE Z31 ECU:
This way if the car stalls out, the fuel pump should shut off as it’s supposed to.
Now on the 280zx the FPR is always grounded and does not get turned on until the ECU thru pin 16 l/r (blue wire with red line) sends a + signal. On the 300zx it is reversed, the + is on whenever the ignition is on, and the ECU thru the fuel pump modulator sends the – signal to activate the FPR. Hence, I needed to rewire the + and – signal used to turn the FPR on.
1) Black wire (- source used to turn on relay) wire cut right before FPR, connect to new wire and take to pin 108 on the ECU connector
2) 16 l/r ( + source for turning on relay), wire cut right before the ECU connector end and connected to + ignition source (I tapped into the b/w wire going to my 280zxt fuel pump modulator which sits above the ECU).
Now the ECU controls the – power that switches the FPR on thru the ECU pin 108, and the 16 l/r wire is ignition + to the FPR. Now I have no explanation for this part, but according to the book, pin 20 from the Z31 ecu should activate the FPR, which then loops back thru the FPR to pin 108. This did not work for me. However, it worked perfect when I connected the new wire going to pin 108. Again I don’t know why pin 108 is working for this and pin 20 did not, but it sure is working well on my car.
Also I disconnected the knock sensor and did not switch any of the injector wire.
Lastly, to run the air regulator, it was controlled thru pin 108 on the z set up (which control the FPR in the z31 set up) as opposed to pin 16 on the Z31 set up. So I connected the 16 pin/wire coming out of the ECU connector to the 108 z harness wire (black which goes to the air regulator) and now the Z31 ECU will control the air regulator from ECU pin 16 thru the 108 wire. (While ECU pin 108 now controls the FPR)
I hope this helps others map out there own swaps (there are many ways to do this). It would be most useful if others who did this could add in their tips, cautions and related experience reguarding this swap such as Z31 maps/ chip burning, adaptations for 370cc injectors, data on actual HP/torque gain and timing/tuning for the set up…..
-
Sweet. I can't believe how cheap the sensors are getting. One of these along with a g-tech comp. and you pretty much have unlimited dyno time
-
I was driving a 6 spd manual 94 TT for 4 months. The car was incredibly fast, once you hit 4000 rpm and the second turbo was up to full speed the car would launch violently into the horizon with only the fear of loosing one's license to get you to slow down. It just had amazing top end performance and certainly no trouble spinning the tire. Off course despite it's massive weight (IMO the only negative on the beast), it tracked like it was on rails and could fly thru the twisties. It would take a whole lot of modded turbo Z to keep with a mostly stock TT supra. And if the supra is modded, then you would need a skyline, Viper or 911 turbo to keep up with one with a competent driver in it.
Interestingly, After 2 months I was driving the turbo Z more often. Less speed, but raw and more fun (it's fun to slide the rear on the Z, not so on the big supra). Off course I'm biased toward Zs, but I 'm also a supra fan and used to own a modded 1990 turbo supra for years.
Now if I could add a TT supra or skyline R34 to my driveway again and decide each day whether to drive the old raw sports car or the new techno beast/speed machine I could skip my morning coffee 8)
I have the diagrams for the 83ZXT and 73 240Z already. Does the year of the Z31 ECU matter? I have no idea what year mine is from since I bought it on Ebay.
Would you like me to clap for you? A friend of mine had a 680RWP supra, does that make your car a dog? the supra I had was pumping 400 hp with minimal mods (exhaust, no cat..). Moreover, with the way that engine breaths, it outperforms many more powerful motors on the top end and possibly the 470 crank hp Z you have. 400hp 24 vavles that flow great witha modern fuel injection, broad power band, good aerodynamics and a six speed tranny does wonders accelerating a car in no time from 100mph to it's 155mph speed limiter. Lastly it's childish to make such a moronic assumption that I have been driving modified 17 sec turbo cars for the last 17 years. What's your point ? You certainly did not have any thing useful to share with us. Somehow you may have to rethink your thinking, if not the inappropriate and poor attempt at an insult.
Dyno Results and Update
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
what are you engine mods ?