Afshin
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Posts posted by Afshin
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Thanks for the info Jon, I had not thought about the change in toe and to set it in (I was thinking about neutral toe). Both wheels were set out with the old bushings, no wonder the rear was off. I think I may try -1.5 to 2 in the front and -1 camber in rear with the toe slightly in as you suggested. Do you know if the rear toe being slightly in would effect straight line stability in any noticeable way ?
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Hi,
IMO moving to larger injectors and modifying the EFI should be the last thing to do on the list. The stock EFI is good for 270-300 hp, specially if your stock system, i.e. fuel pump, injectors... are all functioning properly.
So first put in the new fuel pump, perhaps new adjustable fuel pressure regulator (turning up the pressure will allow for a little more fuel delivery), make absolutely sure that all ground and connectors (engine and ecu) are clean clean clean (if not already done), new vaccum hoses...
Also, do you already have a good exhaust system and high flow catalytic?
There is no need whatsoever for a electronic boost controller, all it is is a very nice toy (I still want one off course) and even while they sound a lot better than manual controllers, in objective test, many performed worse and some performed just a little better. The manual one cost 10-$100. many nice one can be bought for $50.0 (do search, do not get the ones that bleed the air, get a ball and spring/grainger type). So $549.0 saved.
Then put in the T3/T4, intercooler, larger throttle body (i.e., 240sx unit. Also, you should enlarge/grind the intake opening behind the throttle body port while your head is being rebuild so it will be match the larger throttle body, better to do it when the manifold is off so the metal filings don't get into the engine) and turn up the boost even more
At this point the car will be so fast that unless your suspension is in real good shape (new bushings...) you will have much more engine than suspension (and even brakes).
Only at this point would I recommend that you start looking into larger injectors and so on. You will also have a much better idea on which way to go by then.
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I finally pulled off my rear crossmember and control arms and put in new poly bushings and a camber/caster adjustment kit. I also have adjustable front camber poly bushings. The car has Eibach progressive's and tokico blues, 225/45/17 kumho's and a cusco strut bar.
My plan is to take the car to open track events every few months and want the suspension to be set up mostly for "twisties" and so on as opposed to 1/4 mile runs..
Until now it had -1.0 front and -0.1 rear camber, the front felt fine, but the car suffered from a pretty steady turn in oversteer (my rear toe was also slightly off) and would oversteer prematurely
Does anyone have any recommendation on initial front and rear camber setting? (I was thinking about -1.0 in rear)
All opinions are welcomed
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I keep seeing OBX boost gauge that look very similar to the autometers but are priced at about $32.00
Does anyone know if they are any good or know of another reasonably cheap and accurate gauge ?
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Hi Dave
Sorry about all the babbling, needed to have a laugh during my lunch break. On a more serious note, by when do you need the stats? I just pulled the rear crossmemeber, control arms... of my car off for a full redo of my bushings to get my car ready for an open track day at Thunderhill in mid April. If it's not passed your deadline, I can foresee taking my car for a 1/4 mile run before the end of April. The car is fully restored and very clean in and out so it should make for reasonable photos..
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Thanks for the valuable info Bernadd. So according to your statement if I were to use larger injectors I would have to bypass some air around the AMS or modify it in a crafty manner such as SleeperZ did and only then could use one of the piggy back systems to fine tune it. I could not just use 370cc injectors and lean out the mixture with the piggy back system which would essentially lowers the voltage from the AMS to the ECU below the threshold for the Z31 unit and send it into limp mode
I wonder if we could get sleeper to modify more of these AMS, or even better, find out were he parks his car at night
Have you tried using larger injectors with an external air bypass ? Any idea or educated guess as to what size/diameter tube to use or initially try for a bypass to allow for 370 cc injectors ?
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Tim 240Z wrote:
Awww come on Nathan....give the guys with the sad @$$ ZXs a chance to be in the spotlightI don't know man, those sound like fighting words
Or perhaps I should have gotten a 240Z with a chasis as flexible as a yoga master, aerodynamics of a brick, ability to lift off at 60mph, recirculation of exhaust fumes into cabin as standard feature, ability to rust before your eyes after washing the car, need for instructional video for passenger on how to get seat belt on and oh yeah, non vented rotors and rear drums (obviously not meant for hard driving)
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All of these dampers/insulators performance are measured by their ability to dampen vibration. The unit is called Acoustic Loss Factor (ALF) which is the same as Damping loss factor (DLF). the range is from 0 to 1 with 1 being the best.
regular dynamat ALF is about 0.14, dynamat extreem is about 0.4. Brown bread is 0.39, B-quiet is about 0.20 and the stuff sold at McMaster is rated at .1 and .13.
So the best two materials are dynamat extreem and brown bread. .
Now on price:
Dynamat extreem is way overpriced and hence out (about $5 per square foot)
Brown Bread is about $2.35 per square foot (I used 70 feet for my car)
The Mc Master product which is similar to the regular dynamat (ALF of only .13) is $2.50 per square foot or $1.20 for the one rated even loer at 0.10 ALF/DLF. Would not get any of these.
B-quiet with ALF of 0.20 is $1.40 per square foot
SO when looking at best effectivness of the material and price per square foot, Brown bread is the best for high quality dampning
B-quiet is best priced for budget application, not as effective as brown bread, but still a little better than regular dynamat and priced very cheaply. The site I mentioned earlier in this post sells all 3.
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Nice article Mat73GNZ
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fly327 wrote
Konig-I cant see myself running them, every zx in my side of town sports a set. good wheel for the price i must say.Thanks buddy, since I'm one of the zx's on his side of town that he is refering too
I have actually only seen one other to date. I know I'm biased, by the wheel is such a perfect match for the the style (they look gorgeous on the car). Too many Pansports (however, very nice not to have adaptors). I don't see the appeal with the TD's (white wheels on an orange car?)
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I just adapted the Z31 ecu/ams to my car and have also been looking into the different piggy back systems, but don't have any pratical experience with them as of yet and don't know how well they do with the AFM set ups since all the good stuff I heard about them related to cars with newer EFi and AMS.
From what I can gather the gredy e-manage is far superior to the HKS and apexi units and can be had for $250 new on ebay.
It would be nice to get feedback from anyone who actually used the e-manage on a Z or Zx
I had just posted this for someone else's question:
3 popular piggy back main air-fuel controllers are the Apexi S-AFC, the HKS S-AFR, and the greddy e-manage. They all can change the airflow signal from the MAF sensor, and hence adjust fuel delivery.
However the e-manage does much more, it allows for larger injector programing (you program a baseline larger injector with the laptop and then can fine tune the mixture at different rpm's manually on the dyno...)or AMS setting, adjustement of ignition timing, 3D mapping, datalogging and pretty much most of what a standalone does. Many of these functions will require a laptop, but since you are still using your original ECU and are not MAP based, it requires very little tunning and you maintain original functions such as AC, idle control , emisions....
Here is a site with some info:
http://www.boostsolutionsinc.net/technical-AFCcomp.htm
This was their conclusion:
Choose Greddy e-manage: If you do not care about using a laptop once in a while, and you want full air, fuel, and ignition control, with 3D maps, just like a standalone. With basic datalogging capabilities. Also great for you if you are planning on a bigger turbo and bigger injectors. Monitors the injector duty cycle as well.
Choose Apexi S-AFC: If you like playing with many displays, and like the big electronics screen, or want the show stuff for you car, the S-AFC is for you.
Choose HKS AFR: If you do not care that the HKS unit looks simple, and that you really will need the BOV correction function, along with the increased throttle response. Also, the HKS gives you more control over the curve. But you do not have the 2 maps, the knock display, and the other cool stuff from Apexi. The HKS is great for tuning though. The best price of all, as well.
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Hi acfitz,
Looking at your profile/interest section I can tell than you have impeccable taste. Welcome to the board.
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3 popular piggy back main air-fuel controllers are the Apexi S-AFC, the HKS S-AFR, and the greddy e-manage. They all can change the airflow signal from the MAF sensor, and hence adjust fuel delivery.
However the e-manage does much more, it allows for larger injector or AMS setting, adjustement of ignition timing, 3D mapping, datalogging and pretty much most of what a standalone does. Many of these functions will require a laptop, but since you are still using your original ECU and are not MAP based, it requires very little tunning and you maintain original functions such as AC, idle control , emisions....
The system sells for only $250 on ebay new, which is much cheaper than a SDS at $1000.oo. Also you would maintain your direct ignition system which would cost even more with the SDS (I'm not saying that it is better than a full standalone like SDS, just much much cheaper with many of the same key important functions)
Here is a site with some info:
http://www.boostsolutionsinc.net/technical-AFCcomp.htm
This was their conclusion:
Choose Greddy e-manage: If you do not care about using a laptop once in a while, and you want full air, fuel, and ignition control, with 3D maps, just like a standalone. With basic datalogging capabilities. Also great for you if you are planning on a bigger turbo and bigger injectors. Monitors the injector duty cycle as well.
Choose Apexi S-AFC: If you like playing with many displays, and like the big electronics screen, or want the show stuff for you car, the S-AFC is for you.
Choose HKS AFR: If you do not care that the HKS unit looks simple, and that you really will need the BOV correction function, along with the increased throttle response. Also, the HKS gives you more control over the curve. But you do not have the 2 maps, the knock display, and the other cool stuff from Apexi. The HKS is great for tuning though. The best price of all, as well.
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My favorite is brown bread. Much cheaper than dynamat (and a little better). A little more money than FatMat but it is much thicker (50%) than fatmat and as you know thicker = more insulation.
Also there have been review of brown bread that show it works very well.
I don't know if there have been head to head review of fatmat against dynamat and brown bread ?
I got mine from this site
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In general EIC does work and has been used succesfully in many turbo application and aftermarket kits (specially in the 80's). I think having it before the throttle body in high velocity conditions should improve the atomization of the fuel. However, this will also increase the chance for the fuel to deposit on the intake sooner causing droplets..
I guess this is pretty much like a carburator/single port EFI set up. Considering the amount of aftermarket fuel systems, from stand alones to cheaper piggy back systems (which cost about the same a a EIC system) it makes more sense to me to get the piggy back system and use larger injectors to provide more even and accurate fuel delivery). Also, the piggy back system will allow fine tunning of the fuel delivery thru out the power band.
Jason, do you have a specific application in mind, l28et, V8 turbo.. ?
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Funny
I certainly like the idea of migrating towards hawaii 8)
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OK Dave, I will have the write up posted within the next 2 weeks and you can compare it to what you had mapped out before you splice any of the wires (I did make a few small mistakes before getting all of it to work properly (eg, fuel pump control).
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I would definitely not put on the stock turbo first. As others said, it does not affect the tunning or running in any way (except for better breathing on top and better performance at high boost). Just keep the boost at stock, until all is running well.
Years ago I did a 280zxt swap into a 280Z. At first i used the sock 280Z injection system (all but the fuel pump) and to my surprize, the car ran pretty decent. I then swapped to the 280ZXT injectors, but the car ran too rich. So I went back to stock injectors and car ran well again.
Obviously, I did not push the car too much with the 280Z FI and avoided sustained boost and high RPMs (however, the car never detonated, even when pushed a little).
I then switched to the full 280zxt FI system and turned up the boost like any good little addict.
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Hello gentlemen
Well I finally went for the Z31 set up and have it running
It's quite nice, certainly idles better and feels like the power band is slightly broader. Feels a little faster, but not by much (not that it should, maybe 10-15 hp). The throttle response is also improved and it revs nicer.
I used a 84 turbo ECU and modified the stock 280zxt wiring.
I also have the computer controlling the fuel pump, AMS cleaning cycle and all emission devices (except the inactive EGR system).
James, I have a work deadline this week. I will try to do a full clear "how to" write up in the next week or so.
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I don't think that your fuel pressure being a few PSI high should cause the car to rich enough for you to notice. If the car is really running rich, it's most likely something else. Try spraying some cleaner on your ecu connectors and on the head temp sensor unit. ALso check vaccum lines afterwards. I assume timing is correct, if not it can cause the car to run rich.
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Yup, fuel pressure at idle is about 32-34 and jumps up to 35-37 with the vaccum disconected. If the pressure is off by a few lbs it should not affect the running of the car (off course if it's low it may detonate sooner....).
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Dude, those turbo's look like they can suck in a whole cat
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Looking nice alex. I guess you need a large metal sheet to deflect 1000 gallons per sec of turbulent air flow from entering the engine bay.
perhaps you can add a couple more rotors and kill any rb26, 2jz-gte, V8, V10's.....Keep the good work going.
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Definitions are such a hard thing but I think we should pick one that holds true most often (there are always exceptions). Let's review some of the presented ideas (OK so I'm bored right now)
-"if it's taken to the track" I can't agree, if it were this easy, I would just take my minivan to the track and have the only race minivan in San Francisco (I think)
-"If it's not street legal" street legal varies too much by State, country, and year of car to hold. If I take out my catalytic from the minivan it's no longer street legal. Still not a race car.
-"if the interior is stripped/bare bones...." well my friends work van is real bare bones, no carpet, no rear seats, no panels...Definitely not a race car
“Too uncomfortable for the street†well my brother’s old jeep Wrangler was too uncomfortable for the street. So again, the comment is true for race cars, but not specific enough.
My vote goes to the comments related to the purpose of the car such as built for the track, which will include many of the above (I think they are mostly requirements and not well suited for a definition).
Not for track: comfort, quiet, AC, emission standards, protecting passengers, DVD player and monitor, ability to handle pot holes, noise and vibration damping (i.e. extra weight)…
For track: helmet, safety cage, fuel cells, adjustable suspension tight enough to rattle your kidneys
….IMO Race Car = built for the track and/or performs better on the track than the street
perhaps you can add a couple more rotors and kill any rb26, 2jz-gte, V8, V10's.....
TimZ Dyno Results
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
Gorgeous graph. You should make a custom frame for it 8)
Unfortunately for me, it seems like the Yoga master will kick the sumo wrestler's @ss
