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HybridZ

appleslicer

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Everything posted by appleslicer

  1. It's definitely tough to find accessory drives for a decent cost. The good news is all we need is the F-body: -harmonic balancer -water pump -alternator -tensioner -custom-ish belt Problem really is that most kits like to also delete the water pump, which doesn't fly for me. My build isn't for a race car so I don't want an electric one. I'm on a tight budget myself, so if I figure out a deal for accessories, I'll post back.
  2. I need a clutch pedal/assembly for a 1972 240z. I can't seem to find one anywhere. Trying to do a auto to manual swap.
  3. The main reason I'm thinking of selling is so I could get the bre spoiler. I like the softer rounded ends a little more. This one is more square. And thanks for the tip. I have other parts I'll need to work on.
  4. I don't really know if I should say anything to them, but the more I look over the piece, the more I am disappointed. I may sell on craigslist and buy from MSA...I don't know for sure at this point. There's a moderate amount of work to be done before it can be painted.
  5. Wow, didn't realize they had it... Saved 30.00 bucks going through ebay. All the little stuff on these cars starts to add up big. I'm using an excel sheet to add/calculate future costs. So far at 31K. I want to do everything right like you, but I have a very very limited budget so I have to scour the internet for the absolute lowest cost. The American eagle radiator is the same as Champion, but 2 larger cores for the same cooling capacity as the 3 row, but higher flow rate with less cores and slightly less thick for room savings as well. And as a bonus a 20.00 savings. Anyways, if you're still working the dash, consider having it rhinolined when its ready. I followed the tutorial on using the 3M paint and orange peel stuff, but in some places, it has a tendency to scratch and show an ugly brighter matte grey line when it does. Only cure is to respray. Also any minor flaw you might have missed is pretty visible after you apply paint. I made this mistake, and now I have a couple flaws that are really bothering me. I've heard that even the bedliner will show flaws. The Rhinoliner isn't as ghetto as it may sound. It looks about the same as doing it with paint, albeit a little rougher, but it wont scratch, chip, and probably wont crack under the heat of the sun any time soon. Just a thought. I look forward to seeing more progress!
  6. Yeah, I didn't tell them anything regarding painting the part. And yes, it can all be smoothed out when its time for bodywork and paint. The overall point is that if you are wanting to have a part to show off the carbon fiber, I'd try MSA next time. That's all.
  7. I'm not sure why, but the second image isnt working right. I uploaded it below.
  8. Hi guys, About me I'm new to these forums, and will be posting a build log soon for my 1972 240z project. I just wanted to quickly post up a review over a company that my friends and I haven't really heard of before getting one of these cars. Why I ordered this part, and chose Retro-Spec I wanted a spoiler for my 240z, and figured I wanted to get a nice lightweight one so that my hatch and strut wouldn't have to put up with a weight acting as a lever on the end. (This car will be my new DD). So I searched around and decided I wanted to give the company Retro spec a try. I did so as a test to see their quality and service since they have various goodies for our cars, and didn't want to drop a fortune on them until I was sure they were worth it. I want to make a note that I don't want the look of carbon fiber on my build, so any composite pieces will be painted appropriately. However, some of you may want the look of bare carbon fiber, so this review may be worth while. Ordering Process There is two websites, and a Facebook page. The two websites are a little conflicting. One has a self check out, the other has a notice to email them for part ordering and information. I didn't see the second site until after I ordered from their self help website. To me, its unnecessary to have more than one site, and at first, was concerned I just bought from a fake site, so emailed them to confirm and got a response shortly after . I was kindly informed not to worry, and that my order was already being processed, and to check out them on Facebook, if I have it. (I don't) So they do respond, and quickly, which is good. Cost I paid 279.99 for a carbon fiber tail with shipping to Oregon. Not bad. Shipping Review I ordered 5/14/2016, and today (6/27/2016) got the package. A little over a month turn around time, but I don't mind for composite pieces. I understand it takes time. However, I didn't get any tracking information, and the "shopping notice / receipt" email that was sent claims it will update itself to show current status. It never changed to show it shipped, so today before I got it, it still said "order processing". Its important to me to have shipping information so that I can be sure to be there when the part comes, as well as ensure it wont be stolen when delivered. So this is a negative to me. Quality Okay and now finally about the part. I will explain first, then show pics. The spoiler looks good from afar, no noticeable problems such as being wavy or anything. Up close, the carbon fiber is flawed a bit in some places. However the real problem comes from the resin. Its fish eyed in places, has some type of lines running across from the mold, is not very smooth, and has some bubbles. What makes matters worse, is a few chips and pits. See the corner in the picture below. The pictures dont really do it justice how unpolished and rushed the part looks. Overall Not bad for the cost. My friends agreed that for the price, its just fine. The cons such as the turnaround time, lack of shipping updates, and the fact that the carbon fiber can never be left raw and unfinished due to its poor appearance may be a definite negative to some. Like I said above however, I don't care for the look of it for this particular project, but its still sad none the less. I will be giving this part some good sanding and so forth before it gets painted. Will I buy from Retro-Spec again? I'm really not sure. I haven't tried all the other options out there, so I will probably try another company for a competing part. That's it for the review guys. I cant wait to post up my build!
  9. I just read through your entire thread. Exhaust looks good....but one potential issue. I dont see that you are using any flex tubes? If you dont use them after the headers (right after your V bands) you have a strong / imminent risk of cracking the exhaust. Especially with the torquey V8. Also there might be drone with the resonator tubes having additional piping after them. Down the road you may want to invest in a couple Borla XS mufflers. They're really light and small, and what I am going to use when I fab my exhaust for the Z. I know I'm new here, please understand I am not saying anything bad about your choices. I'm sure you know what you're doing. EDIT: Wow...just read that you say there is no drone. Please ignore my statement regarding it.
  10. This is my favorite build. You're using quality parts, and every install looks absolutely professional. It's ridiculous. I've been following since the start and replicating what you're doing slowly, except I'm going the LS1 route. I'm in Portland. About the radiator. what overflow tank did you use? I searched it up and found one that looks the same on ebay. You didn't use the option from Champion? Is it this one you bought?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/8x3-Radiator-Overflow-Tank-Polished-Stainless-Steel-with-Drain-20oz-8-x-3-/390642807684?hash=item5af4203384:g:ThUAAMXQxU9SCQmP&vxp=mtr
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