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ok i missread the data off of the engine calculator (http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ here) and put in the wrong head (facepalm). So according to this calculator (BTW can someone confirm its accuracy?) an n42 head on my block with flat top pistons and a 1mm gakset with no overbore will yield 9.678:1 compression, which should be able to run on 91 octane and maybe even 89, correct? Thanks for pointing out the major flaw in my question rolling, I forgot that my state sucks and has crappy gas in its pumps. I only drive maybe 20-30 miles a day so i'm perfectly willing to pay the extra money for higher octane fuel (even if it is diluted cat piss out here). Also sorry for the mistakes and inability to calculate for fuel octane, all the engines that i've modified were also worked on by my dad so i'm kind of a newb when it comes to this

Well my eventual goal is to reach a compression ratio of about 10.5-1 with an N42 head swap (may have already sourced one) a 1mm head gasket and maybe a slight overbore. This isn't going to be happening now, seeing as how my engine has about 115,xxx miles on it but eventually i'll piece together the beast little by little. Thats the plan anyways. I knew that the L6 heads were interchangeable to a certain degree, but i guess the guys who usually swap heads either poorly document it or go for big horsepower numbers and swap in massive valves and cams. My Z is my main source of transport so I just want a daily driver that can get me from a-b with a little gusto

Thanks for the info and quick response drax, now i just need to find a pick n' pull

thanks for the link rolling that helps a lot actually. As for drax, what would you consider minimal mods? minimal as in I can work with the parts from just the head on the car and the one being swapped in or what?

Ok i know this subject has been beat to hell and back. I've extensively searched both the s130 and s30 forums for an answer to my question but have only found fragments. So my question is, what head swap is the most effective for swapping into an 81zx with MINIMAL mods? I've heard people say that an n47 for a nissan maxima works really well but that it might also require the use of aftermarket fuel management or at least a z31 ECU in addition to basically a new valvetrain. I've heard that the e88 swap is easier because it can still use the stock cam, valves etc. Please don't dismiss this question, i've searched so much on this and zdriver and can only find info in regards to s30's and minimal info on s130's. Thanks

Good god, everytime i see this kit I go from six to midnight! Mack, i envy you more than words can express. And i think i speak for everyone in this thread when i say that i hope you can find it in your heart to reproduce some copies of it (for a nominal fee of coarse:wink:)

i'd be interested in the price of a one-off run if you can adapt it to a 2 seater model. Also can't wait for some better resolution pics

I'm aware that some s130's came with digital dashes and that swapping them requires only the dash, harness and spare time but i've always like the look of the z31 digi-dash's and was wondering if i could maybe cut a few wires and adapt it to the s130's digital harness. Has anyone done this or even attempted this? Am i losing my sanity? Feel free to make fun:mrgreen:

My cars an 81 NA with a 5 speed, i know that i shouldn't trust everything i read on the internet but i just read it and thought to ask you guys to see if its legit. My cars VIN confirms its an 81 non turbo so theres no confusion there and im pretty sure the previous owner didn't do a tranny swap, anyway i just thought it was odd and had to ask

thanks for the help dozer, +1 rep!

I was just on wikipedia searching to see what year z's would have the same egr tube as mine (btw which ones do?) when i saw that in 1981 nissan eliminated the manual transmission because they thought that the tranny couldn't handle the torque of the l28, is this true? I have a 1981 zx that has a 5 speed and i thought this was strange, can anyone confirm that this is true and is there anyway to lookup my vin and see if its a euro model or something?

i come from a mixed background from working on my dads old mustang 5.0 notchback and my friends el camino and mustang 5.0 hatchback, and also working a lot on my old beetles as well as a bunch of hippies Volkswagens. I have to say that as much as you work on your car, it will almost never be perfect unless you lower your expectations or spend every penny you have and buy headers instead of food (thats me, i eat cup noodles every night now:mrgreen:). I personally love my z, the main thing for me when buying it was reliability as well as the performance it offers. While my car isn't exactly a rocket, it will be one day and thats enough to keep me throwing money at it. congrats on buying a z and trust me with a little work you'll see its worth it. You should probably get your garage built first, speeking from experience.

yeah thats what i was thinking too hugh, that maybe they designed the system to sit back farther but with shorter pipes (know what i mean?) anyway i'm just putting all the vacuum hoses and intake crap back on today so i'm gonna leap that hurdle when i get to it and let you guys know how it goes

my friend berto used some grey carpet he had left over from a house he was building, its not perfect but its actually nicer than you would expect:mrgreen:

thanks for the info 2by2, i thought it was my own stupidity that caused the clearance issue:mrgreen:. You can bet that i'm gonna call/e-mail motorsport and tell them that a few people have been having clearance issues with their kits. As for fixing the problem i think that if it really comes down to it i'll just cut the pipe on the far left and move the cat back a few inches and that should solve it. So i finally got the intake and exhaust off, put the headers on and am now just putting the whole thing back together. Ok now for hopefully the final question, could i run the car for just a few minutes with just the headers and the collector or would that cause major damage? Its just that the car has been sitting for close to two weeks getting all the parts off and waiting for parts and putting parts on so i'd really just like to start it up if only for a few minutes. Also i've put a few ads in the classifieds for an egr tube but nobody has replied to them, so if anyone has a spare egr tube that could fit a 81 zx, please send me a pm

i need an egr tube (the part that connects the valve to the manifold). Needs to be in decent shape with no rust/holes/etc. We can talk about prices and shipping once pics are shown, thank you.

I ordered this kit: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEC06/15-6025 heres a pic of all the stuff that came in the kit (excepting 4 ring type things that support the exhaust to the car body) now i assume that the pipe on the far left connects to the opposite end of the cat as the header/collector does, my friend says that maybe because of my clearance issues the system might have been designed as a system without a catalytic converter. Also heres a pic of the clearance issue im having at the cat

Hey guys thanks for all the help and advice, just so you guys know this website is hands down more helpful than the other car forums i frequent (mostly vw forums for my bug). I just have one FINAl question on this project, along with the headers i got from motorsport i also ordered a full exhaust kit. now the kit was advertised as a system that didn't require welding (i was sceptical). Now once i got the headers and the collector on the car while i still had the stock exhaust on i noticed that the collector would not fit onto the cat because it extended about an inch past the connector. i'm also kind of confused about the configuration of the pipes ( i've really only worked with vw bug and mustang exhaust). If somebody could please tell me how i piece this system together without welding (i am able to weld if need be, also sorry for no pics my mom stole my camera haha)thanks again for the help guys, once i get all this set up i'm gonna take her to the track with my friend and his soltice:mrgreen:.

hey guys finally got the damn things off, had to buy a metric wrench set to get to the last two bolts from the intake and exhaust. But i do have one more question, while i was getting all the stuff off i got into a little of a sawzall frenzy. the bolts holding on the egr hose (from the egr valve to the exhaust) were stuck on like crazy so i decided foolishly to cut the egr hose off. So now i have a pair of headers with a hole for an egr but no egr hose to attach it to the valve:icon50:. So my question is does anybody know if i can pick this part up from my local autozone because i don't really have the time to order and ship the part from the internet, Or could i just stick a bolt with some pipe thread sealer in the hole in the header and cut out the egr system all together?

ok so maybe theres a little mix up here, is it necessary to remove the intake to get to the exhaust mani or is it just preferred? the haynes manual doesn't really give any specifics other than its roomier to remove the intake first. Also if all i have to do is remove the heat shield and then remove the exhaust bolts can i get the manifold bolts off from the top of the car or do i have to jack it up and remove the front left tire to get to them? I also have another question on the subject, why did nissan/datsun design the engine to have the intake above the exhaust? My friend says its something to do with the egr but i don't know

Hey guys i am absolutely STUMPED on how to get this crap off. I just got a new set of headers from motorsport and wanted to install them and I heard that removing the intake manifold would give me gobs of room to work with. Well 3 days later and i'm still trying to get the damn thing off. First off there is a little support for the fuel lines that connects behind one of the belt tensioners that i am tempted to take a saw-zal to. secondly the last bolt holding the intake on that was hidden under the little plate on top of the intake, i was wondering if thats like a 12mm bolt because i have the crappiest of crappy wratchet set that has a 11mm socket and a 13mm socket but no 12:evil:!! I am in desperate need of help i'm at my wits end with this.

i need the plastic part that attaches to the interior of the t-top (the large plastic cover that sits behind the handle) i need that for the drivers side. i'll be moving soon so shipping will be kind of iffy