Ineptitude01

It's going into an 82 280ZXT. I actually have the MAF already. I grabbed what I thought was going to be all the parts I needed off a junker, but it was so stripped down that I couldn't figure out what the aspiration had been, so I ended up with a CA emissions NA ECU. Bummer. Come to think of it, I have the whole dizzy off of a Maxima that had a VG30E. Will the disk out of that work?

Finally getting my ECU swap plans into order. Looking for a 300ZX Turbo ECU from a 5-speed, non-California preferred. Also need the encoder disk/chopper wheel, whatever you wanna call it. (And I still need a blue shift knob. ) Thanks! Corey

Interesting. I've never worked with composites, but I could swear that some newer engines are actually using composite manifolds from the factory. I want to say it's the GMC Ecotec series, but I can't remember. My problem with fuel would be that at best, it's going to be a little cooler than ambient temperature. with the air-liquid exchanger, you're doing the same thing the radiator is doing, but without the thermostat. You have to figure that coolant is going to be somewhere within a few degrees of an engine's ideal operating temperature. The goal of a normal cooling system is kind of like Goldilocks. Not too hot, not too cold. Juuuuust right. I figure if you're going to go to the trouble of having something like the laminova core design, and you're going to make a seperate cooling system, why sell yourself short with a fluid that's never going to be much colder than ambient? For that matter, ethylene glycol is a good coolant because it readily absorbs heat, prevents gunk, and doesn't freeze, but you can buy things that transfer heat much more efficiently. I agree, fuel is good at this part, but having a closed loop system based around something with an even higher btu efficiency seems like it would be the best way to work this. You might even say it would be the... cool thing to do. :D

Well, I'm gonna stick a toe in the shark tank and say it. I want to reupholster my stock 280ZX lowback seats. *wince* ...Well, anyways, I've got that oh-so-special 82 Turbo package that has the two tone blue on silver scheme, inside and out. I love this color scheme dearly, and I'm endlessly amused by the idea that the dash is blue because the hood is blue, the door panels are silver on top and blue on the bottom, etc. The seats are silver leather on the front face, and what must be blue vinyl on the rear. I don't have any good pictures right now, but they're really eaten up. Oh, and yes, I know there are lots and lots of seats I could swap in, but then I would lose my sweet blue and silver theme. The two options I were looking at were MSA's vinyl kit (not leather, but ~$300 and the right colors) or Zcarsource.com's leather kit ($600, probably right colors, leather). Now, my big problem here is that these guys don't have ANY pictures. Not a one. I'm having a real hard time wanting to buy seats covers without knowing what the heck they look like. I exchanged a number of frustrating emails with someone at MSA explaining that I just wanted to know if their vinyl seats looked at all like the leather ones, and *no*, I didn't want their leather seats, and *no*, I don't have vinyl seats. So now I'm asking you all. Anyone used any of these kits? If you did, how was it? How do they compare to stock? Alternatively, if someone just HAS this color combination for sale...

The composite manifold isn't so outlandish from an 'it would work' standpoint. But finding someone who can either CNC or weld up the manifold is already a chore. Finding someone who can make and shape composite material... Well, basically, I'd say that's unrealistic.

So if I were to take a break from my other 3D projects and 'draw' this up, which design are we looking at being the most reasonable now?

I'm still a little mad at the 'How to Rebuild...' book. That stupid guy told me 'It's very easy to get the rear main seal on the crankshaft. Just push it over with your thumbs' Well, lads, I'm here to tell ya. It's not very easy. I broke two of them, ran out of patience, and continued with the build. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong, but I'm just going to get this when the engine's assembled on the crane, awaiting flywheels and other treats. The moral of the story is, check all your books, and usually 2/3 will agree. I guess rule no. 4 is 'Use your head'. Most of the time, if something looks weird, it is weird. If your crank isn't spinning, for example, check which way the arrows on the main caps are pointing. *cough* Not that I would have made such a dummy mistake...

Ah, live an' learn, right? I'll wait until my Turbo lays waste to my OEM, I guess.

HybridZ is my favorite user community on the whole internet. Not to mention, they all like Z cars!

I'm with cd1105 on this one. I thought it was going to be a big huge deal, but rebuilding the L28 is really not a hard thing at all. Swapping it in and out of the car is even easier. Follow a few simple rules, and turbocharged Datsun fury is at your finger-, er... toetips. 1. Plastic baggies - Every part smaller than your fist should go in a plastic baggie, labeled with what it is and maybe even where it came from. Sounds time intensive, and it is, but much less so then "Oh god, where are my front cover bolts?" 2. Clean EVERYTHING - Find some kind of heavy concentrated degreaser (I prefer Oomph!(http://www.stp-oomph.com/products.php); removes carbon crud, rust, and any grime REALLY quickly). You'll feel better about it, and your engine will thank you. 3. Go by (buy?) the book - Get the FSM, a Haynes or similar, and the 'How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine'. The last one has the most pictures, but also the most misinformation (IE dunking your pistons in oil before installing them.) As far as the NA S30 vs. Turbo S130... I love all Zs, but I love 280ZXs most of all. They're not a classic in the sense that an S30 is, but I love the creature comforts and body styling. The 82-83 hood vents and the T-Tops make my day, every time. I love the seats most of all. Lowback leather 280ZX seats are just... the cat's meow. And there's nothing quite like driving a turbo car, either. All-motor cars are tons of fun, especially when built up, but having a turbo is one of my favorite things of all time. (Especially with the T-Tops. Anyone else feel like you're in a fighter jet, hitting the afterburner? )

AutoZone had the OEM clutch kit too. I wasn't as impressed with it, but it is workable and does include your throwout bearing. I haven't installed it yet, so I can't tell you how much I like it. A clutch with only 2,000 miles on it would be broken in nicely, and you wouldn't have to deal with that overgrippy feeling that a new clutch often gets. AutoZone priced the kit at $170, IIRC. Full kit, though, with throwout, pressure plate, etc. I'm almost thinking I should have gone with an aftermarket clutch. I hear the Zoom ones are really nice, but I can never find one.

I'm looking for a blue shift knob from the later 280ZXs. I have a blue one now from a 79, and it just doesn't feel right. I can never find a blue interior at a junkyard, for whatever reason. Thanks, guys

Blackice - I was just looking for the same part, and most members here who have them are either using them, or have ones that need to be resurfaced. Do you have any AutoZones near you? I went to one over here on a whim, and they were able to order and sell me the correct flywheel for $60 flat, and it looks excellent.

Holy moly, that refrigerant system sounds complicated. I've always shied away from things that steal power to make power (low comp pistons being the obvious exception ). My original interest for the laminova was the idea that you could potentially get it working on kind of a passive setup. Little radiator core, coolant lines, electric pump, etc. Low impact, hopefully high efficiency? Using something that absorbs heat more readily than water or antifreeze would help a bunch too. I guess that's the original idea of the refrigerant loop, because honestly, what better than refrigerant to cool something down? I'd CAD up a layout and fitment, but all my free 3D time is currently going to a different Datsun oriented project... Something I think you guys are gonna like... Provided, that is, that you like 240Zs, or even Datsuns in general.

Haha, wow, I feel like a moron! AutoZone sells brand new flywheels for $61. Case closed; now I know. Hope the quality is alright. Thanks for the thoughts, guys.

I'll definitely keep you in mind, Phil. You might be my last hope, once again . Just thought I'd try local channels first.

Okay, guys. I think it's firmly established what I'm looking for. But the question remains... Does anyone in the Bay Area have it?

Kinda hard to keep it all straight, huh? And this isn't even half as fun as driveshaft differences. There are literally a dozen different driveshafts for the 280ZX, based on the transmission, differential, body style, turbo... So I guess I should make my request super clear: I would like a 240mm flywheel, please, hold the pickles.

http://www2.zhome.com:81/rnt/L28conversion/engine.html I think that's where I read it. 2+2 and turbo use the 240mm, 2 seaters use the 225mm, according to the kind folks at zhome. My project car is a 2+2 and a Turbo, so I figure the 240mm is the right thing to do.

I was pretty sure that the 2+2 and the Turbo both use the 240mm surface flywheel, and the 2 seater uses the smaller one? 2+2 turbos should, therefore, have the 240mm also? Number is just off the top of my head, I definitely haven't looked it up, it's just what I remember reading.

Okay guys. One more push, and then I'm in the clear. I got everything I need for my manual swap except a flywheel (his car was a 2 seater). I'd take a lightweight aftermarket, or I'd take a stocker. I really don't care which, just as long as it's not the 2 seater flywheel. If you have a workable clutch assembly, so much the better. My preference is that we do the whole thing locally. Anywhere in the CA bay area, really. Obviously, I'd be more willing to pay shipping on a lightweight. Your reward (aside from the money) will be me actually starting a build thread! You know you wanna...

Haha, yo, Sam. Here to make fun of people without DOHC AVCS heads? Anyways, guys, refrigerant would be secondary to the design actually working. Thankfully, I nuked my windows partition, so I won't be up until 3AM rendering the concept. I'll fix it tomorrow, but for the time being, I'd love more feedback, maybe somebody's used these on a supercharged V8, or knows someone who has? I'd even like to hear about people's air-water intercooler experiences, what size core got what results, that kind of thing. And if it gets to that point, knowing someone with a CNC machine in the Bay Area... well, if wishes were horses, right?

The paint program is Adobe Flash, believe it or not. It looks so neat 'cause Flash vectorizes paint strokes. Anyhow, I was thinking, as long as you're not going to use rubber hoses, you could go for the gold and use this stuff, or something similar. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorinert I know firsthand that it's amazing for electronics, but a CPU probably doesn't get as hot as a turbo's charge. I bet that low boiling point would be a problem, but some similar flourocarbon based coolant might work well here? I'm thinking about jumping into a 3D program later tonight and doing some more serious mockups. (I'll make sure and include the radiator core to avoid further confusion )

Oops, I knew I forgot to mention something. Yes, this would be going to its own, *separate* radiator core, just like any air-water intercooler/aftercooler. Using engine coolant would probably have the exact opposite effect from what you want. Other enterprising solutions might take advantage of the transmission cooler in those automatic radiators we all have lying around...?

Okay, HybridZ. Time for a crazy idea. I've been thinking about the Laminova. http://www.hi-flow.com/HPIC2.HTM (Searching for 'Laminova' got me one result, and it wasn't even relevant to my idea. ) Talking to my buddy Sam about intercooling stuff, he and I agreed that air-water intercoolers were pretty neat. But then he showed me the Laminova design. Sam's lucky, in this case, because he's got a WRX swapped Impreza, and Subaru boxer manifolds can just use these as a passthrough on top of the engine, where the stock throttle body sits, and instead of the TMIC. But what about the L6? You can't use these inline, and making some kind of box to hold them would defeat the purpose of air water. So I figured... What if you just chucked out the stock throttlebody and intake manifold, and used ITBs? As soon as you're using ITBs, you've basically decided that intake runners just aren't for you, anyways, and now you've got all that space freed up. Since there's now no throttle body there, there's no need for a J-pipe of any kind. Since there's no FMIC, you don't need to run any other weird piping. So why not just dump the turbo straight up into a custom manifold box containing four Laminovas? I drew a quick sketch of what I'm proposing. I saw another thread where someone was using ITBs with a turbo, but it seems to me that most people just let well enough alone when it comes to the throttlebody (or swap out for a bigger unit) So I guess what I'm wondering is... am I totally nuts, or is there some merit to this idea? I wish I could find evidence of this being done on an inline, non crossflow engine, but so far everything I've seen has been for V engines or boxers. http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125681 http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1259403&page=5 What do you guys think? Doable on an L6?