Ineptitude01

Where is it located?

Haha, the really sad part is, I'd bet more people would be interested in either of those for the money than my Honda.

Definitely took me a minute to get that he wasn't serious. Truth is, you see things like this on craigslist a lot...

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/1798037375.html I can't believe I'm not off to buy this car RIGHT NOW. Only $1000, and it's SUPER LIGHT DAWG. This has to be the most perfectest racecarz evars.

I think the convention is to actually fill the U with silicone - that's what I did. I don't remember what book I read it in, but I feel like I did read it somewhere I felt was legitimate. I've also noticed it's much easier to put the rubber seal in first, and then push the expanders in. I think I put mine in with the same orientation you show in your picture. Just my two cents. My engine hasn't exploded yet...

Shweet. Thanks guys, when I can scrounge up the cash, I'm going to go ahead and get one. I also just found that my T fittings to the turbo were made of the cheap kind of plastic, and were starting to cave in and melt. Replaced now, but Z31 ECU swap woes are preventing me from driving around and checking out my temps. Also, just picked up a '67 Roadster, and now I have to decide where to spend my money... Still, there are worse things to have to decide between!

ZX Turbos have electronic distributors. You can't unplug the vacuum advance on a car that doesn't have it...

I've been on the hunt for a better radiator, since I got stuck with the automatic transmission one, with the integrated transmission cooler. It's the last holdover from the car's pre-T-5 days, and now that I have a water cooled turbo, I'm noticing my temperatures starting to climb into the 190-200ËšF range.

Ahaha! I was wondering when this was going to show up on here! I talked to this guy a few months ago. I couldn't believe that they had made a special edition ZX that I didn't know about. From talking to him though, I was able to find a picture of the BSR valve cover in their old mailer. Not a special car, and the cover was only worth something like $60 back in the day, but I bet there aren't a whole lot of them left around. Wasn't there one on eBay a while back that sold for hundreds of dollars?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-core-aluminum-radiator-NISSAN-Datsun-S30-280Z-MT-78-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c1290a0bdQQitemZ120570552509QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1374wt_877 Has anyone tried this? It looks a little funny, but it's a good price for an all aluminum with a core that thick.

I got it taken care of. Thanks for the offer!

Hey guys. I've been trying to get this one by myself, but I'm just stumped. I finished rebuilding everything about my 82 280ZX Turbo a few months back, and put about 1000-1500 miles on it with the stock 82 ECCS. I have, however, had a Z31 Turbo ECU, MAF, and related hardware sitting on my shelf for a while. I was waiting to really dial the car in, and get rid of all the little running issues before I tried the Z31 swap. I actually went through with the swap two weekends ago, since everything with the stock ECCS was working just fine. The car idled great, sounded much smoother, and I thought I was in for a good thing, but then I drove it. It was beautiful until it warmed up. As soon as the engine is hot, and exits closed loop, it becomes gutless and floods out (from the smell). If I disconnect the CHTS (no code for this, just something that should be putting it back in closed loop), the idle stabilizes, but the car is obviously undriveable (ask me about the fireballs!). My harness was in really good shape before I did this swap, and I had no major running issues or weirdness. I followed the swap guide sticky (and cross referenced with the version on xenons130) to the letter. The FPR operates correctly, I ran the two wires to the coil, spark is good, advance is so-so, but this hot running issue just has me scratching my head. I've tried another MAF and a just-remanufactured ECU, and it made very little difference. It looks like my first ECU had some spark advance problems that were fixed by the new one, but it changed nothing about this open loop thing. I'm still using the stock 280ZXT 1-wire O2 sensor. I bought an 84 3-wire, but haven't installed it yet. It's my understanding that it's just a heated sensor, and doesn't have drastically different outputs. The AAC is disconnected, but I left the other 2-pin connector on the VCM plugged in. Unplugging it keeps the car from idling well at all. Is it possible that since this is a California car/ECU, there's something screwed up with the EGR system that wasn't discussed in the regular swap guide? Most of my suppositions here are coming from the table on EF & EC-69 in the 83 ZXT FSM, combined with the ECCS section in the 84 ZXT FSM. Any help or insights would be greatly appreciated. Other possibly relevant data: Water cooled turbo + automatic radiator: The car runs slightly hotter than normal, at just above 50% on the temp gauge MAF wiring: I'm taking switched positive power from the B/W wire that went to the 3 pin AAC connector. (Suggested by the swap guide) Have not tried adjusting the MAF as per the FSM. The selector screw was broken on my first ECU, and I didn't have time last night. Thanks.

I had counted on needing to sand and paint. I'd love to see pictures, if it's no trouble. Not sure if I'm holding out for someone local, but do you mind if I give it a few more days?

I need a VERIFIED WORKING ECU from a 300ZX TURBO. I don't need another NA ECU. Don't need another broken Turbo ECU. Does anyone have an ECU that was pulled from a running car that's getting parted out? Thanks so much. Just want my car to run again.

Bump.

Car is an 82 280ZX Turbo, 2+2. Originally had louvers, but they were removed by the PO. I have all the holes in my hatch for this, but no louvers or bolts. Can anyone help me out? If you're within 100 miles of the SF Bay Area, so much the better. It seems like shipping would be awful on these. Thanks! Corey

Okay, perfection! (Or thereabouts) Most of the odd running issues were solved by Caig DeOxit Gold. I sprayed it all over the critical connectors, especially the ones on the ECU. Worlds of difference. It got through the corrosion like it wasn't there. I highly highly highly recommend it. This past weekend, I did a valve adjustment and retorqued the manifold bolts. Boom. That right there was the rest of it. I've got neutral manifold pressure by 1800rpm, positive pressure by 2500rpm, 7psi by 3000, and 10psi by 3200. I think that should be the most of it. If I ever get this car to a dyno, I'll post up some results. Thanks for your help, everyone.

These are the exact symptoms I was experiencing. I was afraid to touch my ECU connectors, and I've been driving with the trim off there, so I could wiggle them if it died. That eventually stopped really helping, and felt hackish, so I moved on to electronics cleaner, battery cleaner, contact cleaner, etc. It all made it a little bit better, but in the end, it was about as bad, and if I poked the connectors the wrong way... death. I sprayed this DeOxit stuff on, and plugged the cables back in immediately. (Then I took them back out and shook the excess fluid out of them ). After that, I had an 800rpm idle, no backfiring on deceleration, no popping, and it felt smooth as glass. More importantly, nothing I can now do to the connectors short of unplugging them completely will change the running operation of the car. Not even the tone. I can't even make it hiccup. I forget which member on here suggested it. I suspect it was Roger, but I can't remember. Good call, though.

They DO, though! I'm getting right on the parts wanted section. Maybe I can find early bumpers to match.

Those are totally sweet. I might need a set. Also, I love your B-pillar trim. Where did you get that?

This probably sounds stupid, but how clean are the pins on the ECU? Mine were slightly corroded, and it was causing a lot of bad problems. Dying randomly, bad idle, backfiring, popping, inability to rev over 2000, etc etc. The pins LOOKED great, but I was able to scrape at them and discover some corrosion. I didn't fix it until last night, when I ditched the regular contact cleaner and got some Caig DeOxit Gold. After a few sprays, all my problems went away.