Jump to content
HybridZ

datzun90

Members
  • Posts

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by datzun90

  1. Hey, sorry i didn't reply right away i wanted to get in touch with the Datsun shop near me to see if i could pick up anything local first. Sounds like you have a good head for sale but I have a set price range so i can stay within my budget. i am trying to spend between $75 - $125 for a head, i can do all of the porting and other work myself. Plus i already have a cam and new valve seals to go in it. Looks like someone will get a good cylinder head but it's just out of my price range. Thanks again -Riley-
  2. If they're made to be welded onto thhe original strut how could they be aluminum. You can't weld aluminium to steel. And as far as having them machined out of stainless that was my first thought. My best friend is a machinist so i asked him about it and he said it's a PITA becuase it takes a long time to turn fine threads like that on a lathe. He said it might be possible w/ a CNC but after i told him the price of the megan ones he said it would be cheaper to just buy those ones. just my .02. But if anyone has found a cheaper alternative i am more than interested.
  3. Hi everyone, I just recently looked into the serial nine adaptors and was shocked at their price so i gave megan racing a call. It turs out they sell the same style of adaptors (apparently for a 62mm coilover) for $100 a pair. Its the same price as the S13 front coilover perches but with no unecessary bracketry on them. They have a pic of them with the Cressida kit on their site under part # MR-CDK-MX83. The only part i am unsure of is which brand of coilovers they fit besides megan ones. There is one downside however, which is that since they have to be specially ordered seperate from the kit the estimated delivery time is 2 -3 months! But if you're not in a rush it seems like a great alternative to the serial nine adaptors, or an extra set of front mounts for the S13 coileys.
  4. I was considering the P79 too so if a Maxima head is just not practical to run i'll probably end up getting one of those. With a maxima head would unshrouding the valves lower the C/R a bit? because that may be a little more reasonable cost. The ain point I am getting at is that i am looking for the best bang for my buck in a cylinder head and from what i read the maxima one seemed to be it. I am just trying to get more info from people with that setup to reinforce my decision because it seems not too many people are running it. Thanks again for the input guys.
  5. Yah i guess thats true, but i was hoping to have to not get a head i have to spend any extra money on wether it's a header or machine work. Thats why the MN47 caught my eye. I am pretty sure either mack or 1 fast z said they were running their setup with full advance on pump gas but i couldn't find the post it was in again. Plus if i get one of the older heads won't i have to put hardened valve seat in it?
  6. I am trying to avoid a head w/ square exhaust ports because i already have a round port header and i am on a very tight budget. I was thinking of a shaved P90 but the cam tower shims and the machining work make it kind of a pricey option. As for the gas i can always get the 93 octane in NY state considering i buy almost all my gas there anyways. But i appreciate your input. thanks -Riley-
  7. Come on Mack, 1 Fast Z you guys must have some input. Thanks
  8. Hey guys, I have been doing a lot of reading on the site regarding the maxima head on an N/A L28 w/ flattops. I was just looking at getting some feedback from the people who are currently running this setup. I.E. detotnation problems you encountered, valve clearance issues, etc. I should state that i have an N42 block w/ STD bore flattops, a 490/280 cam, tiple DCOE42 webers, and an aftermarket header. I plan on building this as a hot street motor that i will use ocasionally at track days. As well, where i live i can easily get 94 ocatne fuel @ the pump, so i am hoping this setup is capable at running pump gas w/ a full 36deg advance on the timing. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  9. Anyone have a maxima head they're not going to use. Need al least the valves in it i already have everything else. Thanks
  10. lol, i didn't pay attention to the wording on that one when i read it the first time.
  11. Definitely i will, i see he is a regular on all of the head threads i have been reading.
  12. Well i finally got it stripped to the block, it turned out to be an l28. Now it's time for some flattops and a serious head. Thanks everyone for your input.
  13. 1973 240Z Still under construction but plan to do track days, and a lot of late night backroad runs. Also very interested as i am in the market for some coilovers right now.
  14. hmm, well hopefully mines not too trustworthy. because i want an L28 not an L24. Unfortunately it seems like i may have to take it apart to find out what it really is.
  15. As far as i know. There is a flat section on the right hand side of the block right where it meets up with the cylinder head, i have seen other engines with L24, 26, 28 scribed there. But maybe its supposed to be blank?
  16. Yes The N42 block should belong to a 280Z, but L24 is scribed on the other side, hence the confusion. -Riley-
  17. Yah thats what i was thinking, but them someone mentioned a maxima engine and got me thinking, so i figured I'd ask the experts.
  18. Hi all, I have a 1973 240Z and i can't figure out what motor i have. On the left hand side of the block is an N42 stamping, but, on the other side of the block up by the cylinder head is scribed L24, not L28. As well, there is an N47 cylinder head on it and it does not have the threaded hole behind the #5 Cylinder. Someone suggested it might be a maxima engine but i can't find much info on them. Does anyone have any suggestions? Please help! -Riley-
  19. I am looking into this swap (S12W FR, 240SX RR) for my car (73 Z). I have Enkei Mesh wheels (15 x 7) and i am worried about the clearance. I like the wheels a lot and would hate to have to ditch them for the new brakes. I also wanted to upgrade to SS lines but the 240SX rear caliper has a banjo fitting and the z car lines wont bolt up, Is there an adaptor or do i need 240SX rear lines and s30 front lines. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  20. I have a 73 Z and i want to upgrade the Front and Rear brakes. I want to run the S12W 4X4 calipers (non-vented rotors) up front and 240sx calipers w/ NA 300ZX rear rotors. I plan to get the 15/16 280zx master cyl as well. The Thing is, I have two questions that i can't seem to find the answer to after a lot of reading. I want stainless lines but i have heard w/ the 240sx rear calipers you have to buy 240sx rear lines due to the banjo setup on the caliper. If this is true where do i find front and rear ss line kits seperate so i can get one set for the Toy calipers and one set for the 240 calipers? (instead of getting a set of for made for the z and not using the rear two) I also have Enkei mesh wheels (15 x 7 i think) and i am worried about clearence issues w/ the calipers and wheels. I like the wheels and would hate to get all this brake stuff and not have any of it work w/ my set up. I appreciate any input from someone who has already tried this setup. Thanks!
  21. Actually after reading some more on this forum i have decided an L24 isnt vital as long as there is still an L series 6 i a m happy.
  22. Thanks but i am looking for something w/ a straight 6 still.
×
×
  • Create New...