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About CGraves

  • Birthday 06/30/1996

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    Wilmington NC

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  1. Prefer something in decent condition but open to all offers. PM me or shoot me a call at 336-239-8175. Shipped to 28403.
  2. I’m using a Holset Hx35 and my goal is 450-500whp but I’m not sure what manifold is the best. The holset is a T3 twin scroll and it seems like most people don’t offer a TS manifold in a T3 flange. 6boost makes one but I’ve never heard of them. Ideally I’d like to spend <$1600 on a manifold.
  3. @mtnickel Sent you an email. Thanks!
  4. S2 RB25 from an R33. 12lbs, stock turbo, FMIC, ISIS intake, 90MM TB, Z32 ECU with Nistune Type 2 board. Basically my RB25 is running like hot garbage using the stock RB25 map that comes with Nistune and I was wondering if the maps Nistune supplies might be incorrect? The car loses a lot of power on the top end because the timing is getting pulled back so hard. Does anyone know if this RB25 timing map is correct? It's the stock rb25 map that nistune provides and I don't understand why timing is getting cut so aggressively towards the top end.
  5. @NewZed I'm not sure what dwell is or how I would even check that. I'm running a stock RB25 with stock ECU,turbo,boost everything. Timing was set before I left on my trip. If it was timing I don't see why it would happen after 2 hours then stop after it cools down. Also RB25 coils are notorious for getting hot and the plastic will crack and they will spark off the valve covers.
  6. I'm having trouble with my car misfiring really bad about about 2 hours of driving and pulling over for about 15 minutes always fixes the problem so I'm assuming it's the coilpacks can't handle the heat and they start to misfire. The problem I'm having is I don't want to hang LS coils somewhere in the engine bay so I was going to modify them to be a coil on plug but my question is would that defeat the purpose of the LS coils since they are still in between the valve covers? Or do the heat sinks help them dissipate enough heat to where this isn't a problem?
  7. The part on the door that turns inside the striker rotates just fine and has no place where it catches and doesn't seem to be worn when I turn it by hand but I'll take a look at it. I mainly welded the striker because I've been tackling this issue on and off for the last 8 months and I was really frustrated but is there anything particularly wrong with welding the striker to the car? I can just grind the tacks off and move it around if I need to. If the latch mechanism was out of adjustment that means it just wouldn't work 100% of the time correct?
  8. It's a 74 260z. It seems like the car is what's keeping it from closing. The latch on the door that turns seems to turn freely all the way through and doesn't have any problems springing back into place. I put one of those little cameras into the door while shutting it to see what the problem was and then I adjusted the striker till it closed perfectly then welded it to the door jamb. The problem I'm having is it will randomly close perfect and then not close at all but the striker definitely isn't moving seeing as how it's welded to the vehicle.
  9. I've encountered a weird problem with my passenger side door where sometimes it doesn't like to shut unless you slam it hard enough that I'm scared the glass is gonna break. My actual problem is something I'm evidently not smart enough to figure out. Sometimes the door closes fine and other times it literally won't close and has to be tied to the E brake handle. I got tired of it changing so I got it closing perfect and welded the door striker to the jamb and somehow something is still changing. Is the car really just flexing that bad that it won't close based on the way the car is parked or am I missing something?
  10. Does anyone know what size/length/thread pitch the bolts are that hold the motor mount brackets into the block? I tried searching but I couldn't figure it out.
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