mtnickel

To add to this thread, I picked up an 08 Prius motor. One really nice thing about the Prius vs Vue motor is that the motor orientation is opposite, and the bracketry is minimal. In the Prius the computer is remotely mounted. I think locating in the Z will be much much easier as it will angle up and to the right towards the radio. Lots of room above the gas pedal. Will document the swap here. pd $150cdn for motor and Ecu and all wiring I wanted from the Prius (got lots of the thick white 8 gauge).

I am. Currently about 12 sets left. I plan on making more if there is a demand.

Broken images fixed with Imgur. So you're not using the stock switch? What type of wiper switch do you have? I'd start there. From the above diagrams, you might need more than just 3 wires. when in double I can show you how to wire a single interrupt switch that will park it. The Honda motor will give you ground on that blue/white wire when the wiper is in mid stroke. So you may need some sort of relay. Show us your switch first and we may be able to help. if in a pinch, i'm sure I can show you how to wire it as a push button that you hold to park.

Ideas for where to rehost? wish there was some forum macro that could come and redo all them automatically.

Found it, 94-00 integra. See my post:

I kept all the Evap lines. The one that went to the engine I instead connected to a fuel tank check valve. It’s like a valve that lets air in when fuel contracting but also seals below like 1-2psi to keep vapours from leaking out. I grabbed it from a civic or something.

Messaged. I can host a Dropbox link

I know many systems reduce assist the faster you go. That could certainly have an impact on highway driving. The system basically should not assist much at higher speeds. I got the Yaris non-abs computer as this one uses a direct speed input and not can bus. Had hoped to play with tricking the speed ( over read my stock speed to reduce assistance faster, or maybe some variable curve). But all this driveability and feel complaints have got me wondering whether it’s worth the effort. Perhaps the heavy parking lot steering is just the cost of admission for an old car.

Will message you regarding purchase. All other questions covered in PDF https://www.dropbox.com/s/23dj8il5rru20i3/Z31%20Turbo%20CV%20axle%20ConversionV4.pdf?dl=0

Just make sure the shop that welds yours Centers the square flange in the adapter. The stock square flange isn’t concentric and if they just throw it in the adapter and weld you’ll be SOL. It make have lots of runout and vibrate. We designed a jig to locate the adapter ring to the stock flange for welding. It also clamps it flat so the part doesn’t warp while welding.

Love what you've done here! Axle setups are few and far between, and we need all the options we can get. I'm in a similar situation in that I make the weld-on Z31T flanges for sale mainly on DPAN, but here as well. I too make them just for the hobby of it. However, my part really is not an ideal solution, as finding old OEM axles is becoming more and more difficult. Keep up the good work and we look forward to seeing what you come up with. If what you have was available when i started, i'd have sourced a $400 STI diff, and $880 set of your plug in axles and be done with it. Plug and play. My 3.90 R200 was $250, LSD was $500, Axles were $250, making custom flanges was at least $250, having them welded another $100. That's $1350 and still doesn't include new mustache bar, and the labour to setup the diff, etc etc. Are the Plug-in STI style axles welded on the splined side as well? any possibility of using an OE type STI end there?

Lots of good info here. Some theory is also, depending on how solid your diff mount is, sometimes they have the diff slightly more nose down (1/2-1*) so that under load it straightens up to match angles. You can also play with diff angles by 1) moving where the washers are around your mustache bar (can put poly directly against chassis to raise rear of diff and level it more), or 2) putting washers between your diff mount and the diff (if it's stock mount, the more washers to more nose up it gets). You get the idea.

I thought that was only something the VW dune buggy guys did. They lengthened and loosened the splines to allow extreme suspension travel. I don’t think it was something the original 930 used. I was aghasted by the amount of slop in an unnamed 930 based CV conversion for the Z I bought. The end to end rotational play was 1/2” (at the 6” diameter. Not sure what that corresponds to in degrees). Compared to any other axle I’ve held it was not confidence inspiring and I can imagine the driveline clunks that would result. I have a set of true 930 CVs downstairs that I can check. Bought them with plans to make a proper cv conversions, but went z31t after more thought. With the the scope of the project at hand and its goal of a bulletproof setup, sliding sloppy spines aren’t in the cards I’d guess

They’re probably as strong as like stock 240sx axles. Youre best off looking for used z31t axles. They are much beefier and will hold the power.

Not sure what pic you looking at. The oem z31t can only be shortened like an 1/8”, but that little bit is appreciated and useful. The rockauto can’t be shortened, but already happen to be ever so slightly shorter and do fit with these adapters without binding. They however are probably only strong enough for 300hp or so;maybe more, maybe less, depending drivetrain and tire traction and abuse. Maybe in the pic I had a passenger side of one and a driver side of the other.