mtnickel

I know many systems reduce assist the faster you go. That could certainly have an impact on highway driving. The system basically should not assist much at higher speeds. I got the Yaris non-abs computer as this one uses a direct speed input and not can bus. Had hoped to play with tricking the speed ( over read my stock speed to reduce assistance faster, or maybe some variable curve). But all this driveability and feel complaints have got me wondering whether it’s worth the effort. Perhaps the heavy parking lot steering is just the cost of admission for an old car.

Will message you regarding purchase. All other questions covered in PDF https://www.dropbox.com/s/23dj8il5rru20i3/Z31%20Turbo%20CV%20axle%20ConversionV4.pdf?dl=0

Just make sure the shop that welds yours Centers the square flange in the adapter. The stock square flange isn’t concentric and if they just throw it in the adapter and weld you’ll be SOL. It make have lots of runout and vibrate. We designed a jig to locate the adapter ring to the stock flange for welding. It also clamps it flat so the part doesn’t warp while welding.

Love what you've done here! Axle setups are few and far between, and we need all the options we can get. I'm in a similar situation in that I make the weld-on Z31T flanges for sale mainly on DPAN, but here as well. I too make them just for the hobby of it. However, my part really is not an ideal solution, as finding old OEM axles is becoming more and more difficult. Keep up the good work and we look forward to seeing what you come up with. If what you have was available when i started, i'd have sourced a $400 STI diff, and $880 set of your plug in axles and be done with it. Plug and play. My 3.90 R200 was $250, LSD was $500, Axles were $250, making custom flanges was at least $250, having them welded another $100. That's $1350 and still doesn't include new mustache bar, and the labour to setup the diff, etc etc. Are the Plug-in STI style axles welded on the splined side as well? any possibility of using an OE type STI end there?

Lots of good info here. Some theory is also, depending on how solid your diff mount is, sometimes they have the diff slightly more nose down (1/2-1*) so that under load it straightens up to match angles. You can also play with diff angles by 1) moving where the washers are around your mustache bar (can put poly directly against chassis to raise rear of diff and level it more), or 2) putting washers between your diff mount and the diff (if it's stock mount, the more washers to more nose up it gets). You get the idea.

I thought that was only something the VW dune buggy guys did. They lengthened and loosened the splines to allow extreme suspension travel. I don’t think it was something the original 930 used. I was aghasted by the amount of slop in an unnamed 930 based CV conversion for the Z I bought. The end to end rotational play was 1/2” (at the 6” diameter. Not sure what that corresponds to in degrees). Compared to any other axle I’ve held it was not confidence inspiring and I can imagine the driveline clunks that would result. I have a set of true 930 CVs downstairs that I can check. Bought them with plans to make a proper cv conversions, but went z31t after more thought. With the the scope of the project at hand and its goal of a bulletproof setup, sliding sloppy spines aren’t in the cards I’d guess

They’re probably as strong as like stock 240sx axles. Youre best off looking for used z31t axles. They are much beefier and will hold the power.

Not sure what pic you looking at. The oem z31t can only be shortened like an 1/8”, but that little bit is appreciated and useful. The rockauto can’t be shortened, but already happen to be ever so slightly shorter and do fit with these adapters without binding. They however are probably only strong enough for 300hp or so;maybe more, maybe less, depending drivetrain and tire traction and abuse. Maybe in the pic I had a passenger side of one and a driver side of the other.

$225 shipped plus PayPal fees. But it now includes a jig to aid with welding. You must ship the jig back or to the next user.

930 is a Porsche style CV. You don’t use 930 axles. You can use 930 CVs (just the joints) with a custom shaft (which is available due to all the vw dune buggy guys using this type of thing), and adapters at both the diff side and Hub side. CV setup may not be lighter, but probably more efficient, less vibration, and more durable. Also, can replace the CV with off the shelf part If need be.

It’s iust a cost thing. If you have access to the parts car, the oem harness is pretty complete. Also the service manual for ford is very good and easy to read. I figured out which wires needed power or ignition power fairly in a few hours. PATS removal was $250 sent to Eric at HP tuners.

I'd almost rather not say...🤭 once i welded them all up and ground them down i mixed up a batch of JB weld and applied it over all the welds. lol. redneck, but effective. If you were really OCD, you could silicone your pan down to a flat surface and then pressure test it through the drain plug. Spritz it with soapy water and look for bubbles. Instead of JB weld, epoxy primer would probably seal as well.

If photobucket didn't destroy my rb25 build thread, you'd see we arrived at the exact same mods (Circa Aug 2013). mine however stayed looking like your original version. Haha. To account for the cant of the engine, I simply cut off at an angle. Windage tray I put back in as is, but bent all the louvers the opposite direction. Sump, I wish I had some fancier measuring tools. Once the welds were ground and painted, it wasn't so bad. I may remove it and add some trap doors and wings for extra capacity. All this RB oil woes makes me nervous (though I know it is mostly overblown). Nice work on your 2nd attempt. Looks amazing.

Got a new batch of flanges all done. Some of the costs went up marginally unfortunately. Now $205 Shipped and request you pay via friends/family to cut down on my fees. Jig rental cost down to $20 from $30 however. Total $225 with Jig rental, plus you ship jig to next user.

Fuel shouldn’t be much different than regular as the high pressure pump is in the engine. Just a standard return style fuel system feeding will work. Oe is returnless, but this can be adjusted in the tune. Other concern is is the security of the oe ecu. Has what’s called PATS. Won’t start without key signal which usually interfaces with the stock cluster. So you’d need Custer as well if you want to retain a working ecu. We put a 5.0 coyote into a friends 79 Volvo. For the 2014 model we were able to ship the ecu to a guy at hp tuners and have him delete the pats. Old models you could delete it in the tune, but new ones require a physical advancded mod/programming of the ecu. Alternatively you could try and load a performance pack firmware which has no security, but they don’t run nearly as well as oe code. I looked at the engine as an option, but the sound of the I6 swayed me.