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Great advice. Thanks Cary.

Wow, mostly pro-injection!! Anyone else who wants to contribute I’m all ears. also one other question… if my Webers are 45 with 38mm venturis should the ITB’s be sized at 45 also?

Hey All! I have a 72Z with a 3L Rebello stroker and triple Weber 45’s. The thing absolutely rips, but at low speed I have some drivability issues that I haven’t been able to tune out and I think that’s just the tradeoff of running DCOE’s. I’m considering working with chris at Godzilla raceWorks to have him install their Bosch ITB fuel injection setup but I’m curious how this will affect the overall power and throttle response. I don’t have a ton of experience with fuel injection but my assumption is that the car will have much improved drivability with the tradeoff of the gut-punch immediacy of the Webers? Can anyone advise me as to what the downsides are to making the switch? Thanks.

Hey Friends, I’m hoping people can offer some insights on a tuning issue I’m having with my 45 DCOE’s The car is a 72 240 with a rebello 3L stroker. Dave strongly suggested using the Chinese knockoff FAJS carbs, saying the machine work on these was much better than what he had seen coming directly from Weber, so that’s what we went with. He tuned the motor on his dyno and it runs beautifully all through the rev range with one big exception. Right at “tip-in” when I’m transitioning from fully closed throttle to say 1/8 or even 1/16 throttle there is ZERO progression, meaning that the throttle is either on or off, and this happens regardless of speed and RPM. Off the line I have to feather the clutch to keep the transition smooth which is fine, but if I’m heading into a corner and transitioning from the brakes to the throttle, there’s no way to get back on throttle without a big jerk, which in turn greatly upsets the suspension of the car. It feels like I have to overcome so much vacuum at the petal that there’s just no in-between from on or off throttle. So far I’ve tried bigger pump jets and tried blocking the economizers at the bottom of the float bowl and that made zero difference. I don’t think the issue is in the pilot jets since it doesn’t even feel like I’m getting into the pilot jet yet…it’s literally just the transition from fully closed throttle to ANY amount of throttle no matter how small. These carbs have 5 progression holes and Dave recommended drilling one of them out slightly, but before I go that route I wanted to see what other people think. I’m all for switching to genuine Webers if that would help, but both Dave Rebello and Dave at Pierce manifolds said the FAJS carbs are every bit as good. This stumble greatly affects the drive ability of the car so I’ll try anything to get it solved. many thanks.

Thanks all! I think based on the feedback here I will just stick with my 15x8 wheels and 225/50/15 tires instead of trying to punch out to a bigger size. Seems like the general consensus is that the offset won’t works, so I’ll stick to what’s tried and true

Thanks, that’s a great call.

Exactly, I am hoping to achieve a slightly more deep dish look at the wheels which is why I am looking at a slight negative offset.

Thanks for the reply. I feel like I’ve been reading so many forum posts on this topic that I am about to go blind. If I look at wheels with positive offset that won’t give me the deep dish look though, since it would move the spokes even further towards the outside of the wheel, right? I guess the answer is that I just need to roll the fenders more to accommodate the negative offset. Does adding offset negatively impact handling for a street car?

Hey All, I currently run 15x8 Rota RKR's (0 offset) on my 72 Z. There was a small amount of rubbing front and back but I rolled the front and rear fenders VERY slightly and now they don't rub, but only just don't rub so it's pretty close. The problem is I just can't stand the look of the zero offset wheel so I'd like to swap these out, but I also hate the super stretched look. I don't mind a little stretch, but nothing crazy. Can anyone chime in about their experiences with a 15x9 -13 offset and tell me what tires you used and what the rubbing situation is like? Or any general advice here of what I might want to look at in terms of a wheel / tire package for a 15 inch rim? Here's a pic of my current setup with the 15x8's Thanks!

300-400 is plenty for an S30. Thing must be nasty.

Killer. Is that on al L28?

Ha, that's too funny man. That thing is so clean! Love it. So you did the 8.8 in yours? Did you do the T3 setup?

280tq and 320hp on his bench dyno.The thing freaking rips and sounds evil. I put an exhaust cutout in it too for hooligan mode, which is pretty much all the time. Yeah, I also think the 8.8 might be overkill since the R180 has served me well so far AND STI's run them with similar power and torque figures and seem to hold together ok. For the tranny...I've been through the gauntlet: Stock 4 speed...blew it up. later 5 speed...blew it up Turbo T5 NWC...blew it up S13... currently making noise and one burnout away from...blowing up. The next step is the Godzilla Raceworks CD00 swap which will also be the first new, not rebuilt tranny this thing will have seen, so I'm hoping that get it done. I'm sure it has nothing to do with my driving style 😈

CLSD from a 2005 STI.

Hey All, I currently run a Rebello 3L with an STI R180 and stock half shafts and have had this setup for about 5 years. The R180 was used when I bought it and it's always felt like it wasn't super tight. I checked the paint pattern on the gears and it was in spec, so I'm thinking the LSD unit is just worn out. I'd like to upgrade to CV's, so now I'm looking at different rear end options so I can do everything at the same time. The two routes I'm thinking are: The full T3 ford 8.8 setup with coilovers & CV's. I already have a bunch of T3 stuff in the rear, so they can actually build me a kit with only the parts I need taking into consideration what I already have. If I wanted to go crazy I could even add an OS Giken LSD unit to the used 8.8 diff. 🤘 https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/complete-ford-88-rear-end-conversion-z-car OR I pull the STI R180 and go back to my stock datsun R180, add an OS Giken LSD and CV's to that unit. Dave Rebello sent me a dyno sheet that shows 320hp at the crank. Who knows if that's correct but assuming it is, is the 8.8 overkill or the better call here? Seems like a LOT of differential to squeeze back there and also requires notching the crossmember. I don't mind overbuilding the rear end if the 8.8 is the way to go, but just curious to hear what you all think. I just don't want to invest in CV's and a Giken unit for the R180 only to blow it up later. Thanks!