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rturbo 930

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rturbo 930 last won the day on September 21

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About rturbo 930

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  • Birthday 05/04/1990

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  1. No, you can pull the engine complete with transmission. Helps if you have a load leveler.
  2. Based on what I've read, removing the liners ruins the port flow because the port is too big.
  3. There's an article about the KN20 head on Road and Track, nice to see this thing get some recognition. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a37360407/datsunworks-kn20-head-brings-dohc-to-the-240z/
  4. Yes, I don't think they look good. A good H4 headlight is plenty bright and looks appropriate.
  5. https://www.instagram.com/p/CR-vb6TrSjL/ https://www.zcarblog.com/2021/07/30/performance/datsunworks-twin-cam-power-for-your-l-series-engine.html 350hp/248ft lb at the wheels. Pretty damned impressive.
  6. I have no direct experience with them, but I know they've got a >500hp turbo L running them, along with at least one LS swap.
  7. Agreed. And I really don't understand the secretiveness for anything outside of a competitive environment, which this is not. You would think he would at least tell Derek, the manufacturer of the head, what the numbers are.
  8. IMO the rear end is the least of your concerns here, that amount of torque is going to destroy your chassis if you don't reinforce it thoroughly. Honestly, I think that engine is totally inappropriate for a Z to begin with. It weights, what, 1200lbs? A 280Z weighs only about 2600lbs. I can't imagine it drives well.
  9. I thought that ZCG car had the OS Giken head, did they build another motor?
  10. Looks nice enough, except for the flares, which looks like cheap ebay flares. I don't know if you want to flare the car, but that would be a pretty big negative for me, especially if the fenders have been cut. The front grill looks a little silly too. Looks like someone found a nice example, and then did a couple cheap and poorly executed mods. Photos don't show any close ups of the usual rust spots though, or details of any areas that were modified, so kind of hard to get a good idea of its real condition. I also don't know how much work has actually been done to it, is it a mostly original c
  11. You are aware that the front clip you bought isn't going to be identical to the one that came off the car right? What year is the front clip from? A later 280Z front clip will have even more differences than an early one. Why did the car need a front clip versus simply repairing the one that was there? Primary difference will be the radiator support. I don't know what your end goal for the car is, but if you ever sell that radiator support is gonna be a red flag for a good number of buyers. And what alignment issues are you having? Without specifics there's not much we can do to he
  12. I'll echo what grannyknot said. As for the indent in the middle, I would leave it, and just smooth it out. It'll add a bit of visual interest to the otherwise smooth rear end, I find a totally plain/smoothed out rear end on these cars doesn't look great, too much space with not enough going on. Also not really keen on the idea of smoothing that bit out by just welding in more metal - seems like an opportunity for a moisture trap to create rust to me.
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  14. It doesn't look like the sides of the roof structure are bent, just the front upper windshield frame. I'm not sure how the structure goes together, but you could possibly remove that piece by cutting spotwelds, and welding in a new one. DCW Classic on instagram is going to be taking on a much more severely damaged car, so if you have instagram you may want to follow them, as they are going to be documenting the restoration. If I'm right, and the roof structure can be repaired in that way, then the rest of the repair should be pretty similar to a typical roof reskin. Also, for the
  15. I think it's the punctuation in the thread title.
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