Turbo_the_world

I believe that problem is the tps though, so I will be testing and possibly purchasing on of those.

Well, I have the car running at 800rpm at idle now, was a combination of timing and the fact I found a throttle set screw. Still having problems with it on the road, in my garage the throttle is fast and runs fine through all rpms. Under load, the car gives out at 2k rpm, no power and seems to stumble a little.

Alright, I think I may have found the problem. The block breather, the metal part that goes into the block is very loose. Is there supposed to be a seal or is it just supposed to be a tight fit? I can wiggle mine around with ease.

Still have the pcv system.

Here's the current picture

I also have the idle air adjustment screw back.

Intake gasket is brand new, afm has already been tested and is fine. The tps though doesn't seem to change anything when adjusted, how would I test the tps? Distributor cap and rotor are brand new asite well.

This is an MSA 60mm throttle body.

Engine bay

I have a 76 280z l28. A little about the issue, car does have a slightly larger cam .450 lift, 270 duration. Pallnet fuel rail, 210cc injectors, deleted most of the emissions items and made sure to cap off all vaccum lines. Timing is right athere 15 degrees, any lower and it will die out. I'm only getting 5in of vaccum at idle, and wot I'm getting about 10-12. Idle stays are 500rpm cold or hot. Running a little better when warmed up but not much. Fuel pressure is at 35psi and I have the stock rising rate regulator. Engine stumbles at first when the intake is opened. Could use some help if anyone has some ideas.

I didn't do as much research as I should have lol. I went with cressida injectors which I thought would be fine, I was thinking they would regulate but I didn't even think about the fact there's no oxygen sensor lol. Just a bit of mistakes for my lack of research. Now I will have injectors if I ever want to turbo this z. But hey! At least my carpet kit arrived and the new seats, interior is almost done so that's a plus.

Well they workish, I havery already ordered new injectors as these ones are 330cc and my car currently runs like poop with them. Thank you for your reply though, luckily I had read that article prior and already have a set of those injectors on the way. Unfortunately I had to change my injector plugs again lol.

Alright guys. This was all my fAult, I was being lazy and zed you were correct. I took on the assumption that since my car was running before the project that my timing was good. The distributor was 90 degrees out from tdc. Threw the plugs on to match the rotor and bam! Fired right up! Of course I will not be leaving it like that but I wanted to say thank you to everyone that helped and had suggestions. I was so frustrated, but it's because I was taking shortcuts. Thank you enough! Especially NewZed for being so persistent with helping me.

Tried spraying some starting fluid into the throttle body while my wife was turning the car over. Boom!A nice fireball right back at me, usually I would assume this would be a timing issue, but I've made sure my plugs and timing are set more times than I've tried starting the car. I'm at a loss, I have no idea what else to try. I've never had this much problem trying to start a car.

Alright so, I'm not very good with electrical. Imy trying to test my ignition coil. Imy reading the same voltage as the battery on the positive and negitive ground test for the coil.

I took fuel rail off the manifold, and cranked the car while fuel shot into a tub I had. The spark issue would be interesting. It would make sense since I don't even get a pop with starting fluid. I'm not sure how I would go about testing that, I suppose I would just buy a new coil? Maybe new rotors and cap, the coil plug in the cap looks a little worn.

Spark plugs look dry. It's so weird, not my first time around a car lol. I took the fuel rail off and gave it pressure, injectors were firing just fine. Spark is good, made sure I had the correct firing order. I tried starting fluid in the manifold and nothing.

Here's the picture.

All hooked up, still nothing. Fuel pressure is at 30psi, getting spark, fuel in the cylinders. I have no idea. It just cranks, that's it.

Okay, I already have my open port on the throttle body blocked off, I didn't realize the crankcase vent on the valve cover was vacuumed as well. I will route it when I get home.

I'm not mad at all, I appreciate any help I can get. Just trying to understand.

I thought the pvc hose and valve were on the underside of the intake manifold as I still have that connected.

I honestly didn't even check, I thoughthink I read somewhere they were low impedance. I will check when I get home.

Alright guys, I have a 1976 280z with a l28. Mostly stock other than a stage 1 cam. Ran just fine before I messed with the fuel system. I went with the pallnet fuel rail, Toyota cressida injectors, new injector clips, and deleted most of the vaccum lines. I rewired the injector clips, solder and heatshrink tubing. Installed the fuel rail and injectors. The fuel rail is getting pressure, the guage reads about 35psi. I'm getting spark, replaced plugs and took one out and connected to wire while cranking and sparked fine. Won't even try to start, even with starting fluid sprayed in the intake I don't even get a hiccup. On another note my positive cable gets hot when cranking? I'm guessing just because it's using so many amps. Please someone help!

I have a question for anyone with the pallnet fuel rail. I ordered mine a couple weeks ago, fitment is perfect. I ordered the 11mm rail and I also had ordered some denso cressida injectors. I had to change the injectoright clips for them to work, so all the clips were replaced and wires soldered together. I have everything together and I'm not getting any pressure to the rail. I have fuel, but no pressure. Has anyone else had this problem and a solution? I included a picture of my setup. Thank you.